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[beethovengirl]

Hi,



I'm new to this forum and came across it when googling Homasote and Soundstop.  I moved into a new apartment recently and street noise through the windows has been disturbing my sleep, so I have been looking into putting soundboard over the windows.  Which would perform better - Homasote or Soundstop?



Has anyone else done this?  Do you have any tips?



thank you!  

[supersoundproofing]

The more mass, the better.  Homasote is a soundcontrol board to be used with other materials.  Soundstop has more mass so would be better, but other options are available; see
http://www.soundproofing.org/treatments_for_sound_control.htm

BJ Nash

[johnbergstromslc]

Why not use a transparent material?  Get some acrylic sheet, cut it to the correct size (allowing for some kind of edge seal), attach a handle and you have a removable, see-thru noise blocker.

Check out this site:

http://www.interstateplastics.com/materials/detail.aspx?ID=AcrylicClearExtruded-SC051

You can get a 1/2" thick, 48 X 96 sheet for about $250.  A lot more expensive than what you were looking at, but it'll work better and won't turn your room into a dark dungeon.  Just make sure it seals up the opening tight.

[pamela]

How would you recommend attaching a handle?

Thank you.

[johnbergstromslc]

You could just use an ordinary drawer-pull. (or two)

[Bella]

Hi John,

I'm 99% convinced to try the plexiglass solution for some of my windows.  However, I don't quite get the idea that the plexiglas plug is both removable but yet tightly sealed.  How do I accomplish this?  Would you please explain?

I can understand doing the caulking and and other more permanent sealing solutions for fixed, stationary windows but how do I get a tight seal AND maintain the flexibility to occasionally remove the plugs?

Thanks!
Bella

[johnbergstromslc]

Well, you could do it 2 ways:

Cut the plexiglass a bit smaller than the opening so you could attach a weatherstripping around the perimeter.  Only cut enough so the weatherstrip is 'squashed' tightly and provides a good seal.

Or, attach some kind of moulding to the sill and cut the plexiglass only slightly smaller than the opening and put the weatherstrip on the moulding. 

What would work best is magnetic seals.  You can get a door seal kit (for steel doors) at Home Depot/Lowes; you might need to buy 2, depending on the size of your window.  Then you could put the magnetic seal on the moulding you've added, and find a thin strip of steel to epoxy to the perimeter of the plexiglass.  If you installed this carefully, it would provide an excellent seal and hold up the plexiglass, no problem.

[Bella]

So John, magnetic seals are superior to the weatherstripping option?  I thought we would use magnetic seals and affix some type of small handle to the plexiglass to facilitate removal.

Only other question, is there any advantage to putting the magnetic tape/seal on the window frame and the steel on the plexiglass rather than the reverse?  The information shown on the website indicates to put the steel frame in the window frame and the seal/magnetic tape on the plexiglass.  Do the kits you mention dictate use in the former arrangement rather than the latter?

Some of my windows are rather large so strength of the "seal" is particularly critical.  I like the sound (uh oh, poor choice of words) of epoxying the steel strip to the plexiglass though, for strength purposes.

Thanks so much for your response.  I hope this helps so all our work will not be in vain.

[johnbergstromslc]

Magnetic seals are perhaps the best.  It doesn't really matter if you put the magnet on the window frame or on the plexiglass - I don't think it will affect the quality of the seal - but it will probably be easier attaching the seal to wood than plastic. 

Seal strength issues aren't critical.  If you rest the weight of the plexiglass on the window sill the magnetic seal only has to keep it from tipping and falling out.  Plenty strong for that. 

[Bella]

Thanks John!

Our windows do not have wood frames.  As a matter of fact, they are not framed at all.  My husband was planning to do that.  However, I'm not sure if he will still be able to given that the sills in place may not accommodate framing.  Anyway, having said all of that, we just have sheetrock surrounding the windows.  We live in Florida, so well underneath is concrete block.  Can we adhere the magnetic seal material around the windows on top of the sheetrock or will we need some other moulding around the window upon which to affix the magnet seal material?

We will do inside mounting for our other windows.  Space is at a premium so we will put the steel on the plexiglas as you advise and then figure out how/where to adhere the magnetic sealing tape on the windows.  How much clearance should we allow around the plexiglas?

Sorry for so many questions but I'd like to get our options and technique plans in place.  Then my husband gets to figure out how to execute it!   

Thanks very much again!
Bella

[Bella]

Oh, I forgot.  The first thing I was going to have him do prior to any installation of plexiglass was caulk the existing window.  Does this make sense?

Forgive me.  I'm sitting next to a window as we speak and it's not particularly pleasant.  Not awful but not desirable either.  It calms down after around 11ish or so. . .  I must say though that this room is still relatively sparse and darn near vacant so once we officially move into this room, add drapes and such it should be a great deal more inhabitable.  At least I hope so.

Okay, enough for now.  Thanks to you and to this forum for a sounding board and for listening ears.