Author Topic: Detached workshop  (Read 4095 times)

mike in MI

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Detached workshop
« on: November 02, 2007, 12:00:43 PM »
I am in the process of building a detached woodshop. The structure is up and sealed up from the weather but i am just about to insulate and add drywall. Before I do i am wondering if there are any low-cost methods i should use to insulate my neighbors from the sound.

The woodshop is 20' by 36' with 10' walls. It sits roughly 80 feet from our house and a little more then that from the neighbors houses. I don't plan on working during odd hours so the noise from my shop shouldn't be too much of an intrusion on the neighbors but, I'd like to be a good neighbor and keep as much sound in my shop as possible.

I plan on installing a large central dust collector within the building. i will place this in a seperate enclosure within the shop and put more effort into keeping this one piece quiet. This construction will take place later when i buy the collector.

The shop is typical construction consisting of a concrete slab on grade with 2 by 4 walls, OSB on the outside and Vinyl siding. There are three windows measuring 3' by 4' each and made up of vinyl with double insulated glass. There is an entry door made up of steel with insulation. There is also a 9' by 8' insulated steel garage door with no windows.

I need to insulate because i will be working in the winter. Wall insulation will be R-11 fiberglass batts. Ceiling insulation will be blown-in cellulose R-38 or so.

Since I don't know if noise will be a big problem i hesitate to invest too much money on soundproofing at this time. But, if there are a few things i can do now before i insulate and drywall that are relatively inexpensive i am willing to spend the money.

So, is there somethign i should be doing now that will be a lot easier before i hang drywall and insulate? i am thinking it would probably be a good idea to pay special attention to sealing around the windows between the vinyl and the studs. (maybe some kind of caulk?)

Are the steel channels between the studs and the drywall worth the effort and expense? (adding this extra thickness creates some additional work with addressing the electrical outlets and their depth)

is thicker drywall (5/8" versus 1/2") worthwhile?

Where is my most "bang for the buck"?

Thanks,

Mike in MI

mike in MI

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Re: Detached workshop
« Reply #1 on: November 06, 2007, 05:55:24 PM »
Is there somewhere else i should be asking this question?

mike in MI

johnbergstromslc

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Re: Detached workshop
« Reply #2 on: November 06, 2007, 10:39:23 PM »
Being 80 feet from your neighbor's ears is an excellent start. 

Overall, the most effective thing you can do is use 2 layers of 5/8" drywall.  The more mass, the better.

Steel entry doors block a lot of sound, but the garage door will be a weak spot. 

You are right, you need to focus on sealing.  Get a good acoustical caulking.

Resilient channels are not very practical in this application - you can't really hang anything heavy on the walls, something you'll definitely want to do in a workshop.

As for electrical outlets, you can buy box extenders at any home improvement store (sometimes need to be special ordered).


mike in MI

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Re: Detached workshop
« Reply #3 on: November 07, 2007, 01:50:14 PM »
Thanks for the reply.

i am thinking of taking a stepped approach. I don't know if the noise will be a problem yet so i hesitate to spend more money now on a project that is already over budget. (hopefully my wife doesn't stumble across this forum in my favorites  ;) )

I think i may put in one layer of 5/8" drywall and focus on sealing the airspace to start. If i need to I can always come back later and install a second layer of drywall on top of the first if the noise is an issue.

i have been looking at the acoustical caulk. I will need to seal around windows, doors and along the sill plate. When i start adding up the footage i am guessing i would need at least a case of the stuff. Before i spend the money i want to make sure it is worthwhile. Does a regular silicone type caulk provide any benefit? In other words, is most of the gain from sealing the air gap or does it depend more on the type of caulk.

if noise is a problem could i put a layer of MLV between the sheets of drywall in the future? Would that provide any benefit?

Thanks again.

Mike in MI

johnbergstromslc

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Re: Detached workshop
« Reply #4 on: November 07, 2007, 06:05:36 PM »
That sounds like a good approach.  As for caulking, a really flexible silicone caulk will work too.  Just get the good stuff that won't crack over time - plan on spending at least 3 bucks a tube.

I wouldn't put MLV in between 2 layers of drywall.  It won't do what you think it will.  All it will do is add 1 lb/sq.ft. (equiv. to 1/4" of drywall) to the wall, at 5-6 times the price of a sheet of drywall.

I doubt your noise situation is extreme enough to do anything more than double up the drywall.   

 

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