Author Topic: Existing Floor  (Read 4065 times)

jackqdeezn

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Existing Floor
« on: March 31, 2008, 02:17:00 PM »
I want to upgrade the soundproofing of my existing 100 year old row house's basement.  I want to use this for a home theater/ music practice area.  I figure I'm going to do the ceiling first, then work on the walls.

It is hardwood floors directly on the joists, with no subfloor.  This is my plan so far from what I have been reading, and I wanted to get an opinion on it.  I plan on living here a long time, and want to do the best job I can do without going off the deep end.

1) Between all my joists, from the basement I would put the adhesive backed MLV.
2) Screw in 3/4 plywood so I would then have a "subfloor"
3) Green Glue
4) 5/8 Drywall
5) Green Glue
6) 5/8 Drywall
7) Cotton Insulation

All the previous would be in between all the joists. Then install resiliant channels on the bottom on the joists with 2 layers of 5/8 drywall with green glue in between.

Any opinions?

Randy S

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Re: Existing Floor
« Reply #1 on: April 01, 2008, 04:51:03 PM »
 want to upgrade the soundproofing of my existing 100 year old row house's basement.  I want to use this for a home theater/ music practice area.  I figure I'm going to do the ceiling first, then work on the walls.

It is hardwood floors directly on the joists, with no subfloor.  This is my plan so far from what I have been reading, and I wanted to get an opinion on it.  I plan on living here a long time, and want to do the best job I can do without going off the deep end.

1) Between all my joists, from the basement I would put the adhesive backed MLV.
2) Screw in 3/4 plywood so I would then have a "subfloor"
3) Green Glue
4) 5/8 Drywall
5) Green Glue
6) 5/8 Drywall
7) Cotton Insulation

All the previous would be in between all the joists. Then install resiliant channels on the bottom on the joists with 2 layers of 5/8 drywall with green glue in between.

Any opinions?

Because you have no subfloor this is a good way of putting mass in between the joists, but you should staple the MLV sound barrier in a continuous layer to the bottom of the joists using lead tape for seams and caulk the perimeter. Then I would use sound Isolation clips and drywall furring channel instead of resiliant channel it will do a far better job of decoupling the ceiling from impact and footfall noise.
http://www.soundproofing.org/sales/SSP.htm
Finally make sure you leave a 1/4" gap around the ceiling perimeter of each drywall layer you hang and fill this gap with acoustical caulk to prevent shorting out the ceiling to the adjoining walls.
Randy S.
Randy Sieg

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888-942-7723
Ph. 760-752-3030
Fax.760-752-3040

 

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