New condo with video/recording mix down suite

[joetex]

I am moving and will bring my gear with me.  I have 4 Onkyo 504's and 2 250w macs using a pair of old Q2's and 7.1 with JBL high end for video with 1 2-10 sub and 1 15sub both powered.
I want to be able to shut the door and hear nothing as I would in a studio.  I have no restrictions on building and will spend the the money.

[johnbergstromslc]

The problem isn't going to be keeping external noise out, it's keeping your noise in.  Since you're talking about using high-powered subwoofers in a wood-framed building you've already lost the battle.  It's impractical and prohibitively expensive to soundproof lightweight construction at the level you expect.

There's a reason that recording studios are built like concrete bunkers - that's the only construction that will effectively contain the thundering bass produced by those speakers.

I'd recommend to rent an isolated place to site your studio, maybe in a commercial district, where it's quiet and desolate enough at night not to matter, or do everything with headphones.  Otherwise your neighbors are gonna be screaming for your head...

 

[joetex]

I know how studios are built, and I realize I can't make in a concrete bunker built on springs.  Is there no real way to float this 20X30 ft room to isolate it so my neighbors can't hear me?  I would love to have the room in a typical isolated setting,  but for reasons we need not discuss I can't.  Just interested in what I can do prior to construction to make it the best it can possibly be given the circumstances.

[Mark Davies]

Yes it can be done but you need to build a room within a room with lots of mass like a bunker and no windows and a heavy steel double door all of which will cost quite a bit unless you can get someone to do the concrete work quite cheap. Thats about the only way to contain that much loud sound as thin layers wont work here.

[joel]

While it is definitely difficult to really soundproof wood framed structures to the degree you want, it can be approached with confidence.  You will first decouple all framing with isolation tape.  Then absorb and block sound within the contained floor/walls/ceiling space with bonded cotton insulation.  Then barrier air-borne (mid to high frequency) sound with MLV.  Then decouple dry wall with isolation tape or sound isolation clips (for floating walls/ceiling) and DWFC (pre-damped with iso tape).  Use double 5/8" dry wall damped with Green Glue at maximum 3 tubes/4x8 sheet.  This Green Glue damping lowers the resonant frequency of the walls/ceiling assembly and gives additional 13-15 dB drop in low frequency (impact sound) transmission.  Caulk all perimiter gaps and dry wall edges airtight with acoustic caulk. 
Inside the room walls you can do a floating floor assembly on "waffle" pads - neoprene, high durometer - attached to bottom of framing every 24".  Do the floor soundproofing like walls/ceiling using iso tape on top of MLV and double plywood (or MDF) with Green Glue.  Some people use a band of cork around the bottom of the walls where floating floor assembly butts to them. 
This will give you effective soundproofing in your situation.  Budget cost for soundproofing materials is around  $5.50-$9.50/sq ft surface area.
Sound conditioning (room acoustics) would be your next step to achieve what you want to hear within the room.
Please feel free to phone me here at Super Soundproofing to discuss particulars.
Joel   760-752-3030