Studio/Loft - Need soundproofing asap!!!

[localhost127]

just moved in to my newly purchased loft/1-room studio.

problems i have:
-entrance door has large gaps that need to be filled (leak sounds in and leak my sounds out (i like my privacy and dont want neighbors walking by to easily hear music/tv/sound)
-can hear neighbors at night on occasions - especially small dog (high pitched yalp) and baby.

take a look at these photos and tell me what i need to order.
highest priority and easiest job to do first is probably the door.

i read here:
http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/soundproofing_doors.htm
but cannot find any place or the link to purchase a door sweep?

also - i think much of the sound from my neighbors might be coming from the gaps at the top of the drywall.  it doesnt make a perfect seal because the concrete isn't perfectly smooth.

take a look in the photos at the gaps at the top of the drywall and the concrete ceiling...those need to be filled.

i cant pinpoint (directional) the sound when i can hear the neighbors...but it sounds like it might be coming from that area.

what kind of calk should i use?

also, on my main walls - id like to go with the MLV - but i need to make sure im not eating too much real estate up, as my place is already quite narrow...and i have large, long walls to cover.

supersoundproofing, please let me know what i should order.

thanks,

hallway laeding to bathroom and entrance door (top priority):
-notice gaps at top of drywall
http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/2161/66576509.jpg
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/4312/24035247.jpg

concrete ceiling + long wall
http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/7049/68468928.jpg

rest of studio:
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/9283/52062190.jpg
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/1800/89608857.jpg
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/8222/83272868.jpg
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/6603/45650325.jpg
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/5674/94983734.jpg

thanks!

[Randy S]

Here is the link for the transom seal and tape to seal the door.

http://shop3.mailordercentral.com/supersoundproofing/products.asp?dept=31

now for the MAJOR gaps, you will need more than caulking maybe some wood slats to replace the missing ones. Here is the link for the caulking.
http://shop3.mailordercentral.com/supersoundproofing/prodinfo.asp?number=09%2D42745%2DS

Now for your walls you could add MLV w/psa backing followed by green glue (3 tubes per 4'x8'sheet) and 5/8" drywall. You wont lose alot of real estate.

http://shop3.mailordercentral.com/supersoundproofing/prodinfo.asp?number=09%2D00005%2D55R%2DPSA

http://shop3.mailordercentral.com/supersoundproofing/prodinfo.asp?number=09%2D%2DGREENC

[localhost127]

randy - thanks for the quick reply.

how many tubes of accoustic caulk do you think i'll need (just a rough estimate, if you can tell from the photos)...ill order more than needed just in case / fix other areas.

when you say wood slats, you mean an "L" shaped slat (perpendicular) to put over the corner (almost like wood trimming for the ceiling)??
something like this (random google image)
http://www.crdfinishing.com/images/Crown%20Moulding%20&%20Ceiling%20Trim.jpg

would you still recommend stuffing the gaps with Great Stuff, then using accoustic caulk, and then maybe overtop of that the wood trimming/slats?
thank you!

[Randy S]

I can Not estimate the amount of anything from just pictures, Sorry.
a 29oz. tube will deliver 75lf. at 1/8" bead.


As for the large openings or gaps, filling them up and sealing them is what's most important.

[localhost127]

Randy,
back to the door.

Ok - so I'll order the following:

Rubber Door Sweep:
http://shop3.mailordercentral.com/supersoundproofing/prodinfo.asp?number=09%2D42746%2DT

Tape to use to tape the gaps between the sides/top of the door and the seals (so there is no play/gap in between - as long as the door still shuts without catching on the tape):
order the 1/8" and apply multiple layers until gap is sealed:
http://shop3.mailordercentral.com/supersoundproofing/prodinfo.asp?number=09%2D42745%2DG2%2D75

now, the door feels fairly solid...however, it would probably still make sense to cover the door and overlap the side/top gaps/openings of the door sill/frame for extra protection.
would something like this be what i need? (and has self adhesive so i can just stick it/apply it right to the door)?
http://shop3.mailordercentral.com/supersoundproofing/prodinfo.asp?number=09-42730-PSA

how would the 1" thick compare with the 2" thick for my case? (e.g. using it on a door).

thank you! looking forward to playing an order asap.

[Randy S]

Looks good! go with the 1" it will be just fine.

[localhost127]

Here are some photos of my door.
http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/4579/img9122d.jpg
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/8084/img9119d.jpg
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/3038/img9118r.jpg
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/2762/img9117w.jpg
http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/9919/img9116l.jpg
http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/1914/img9113k.jpg
http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/8652/img9111.jpg
http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/5889/img9109w.jpg
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/1962/img9108u.jpg



Should I primarily place the tape on the sides/top of the door itself, or do i want to apply the tape to the frame of the door?

and regarding the 1" SSP foam mat - will that be worthwhile if I don't add MLV underneath?
or would it be better to go MLV w/ closed cell foam (if i can only afford one at the moment)...which option is best?

also in the photos, notice there is a metal door stop on the outside/hallway-side of the door..i wonder if i should remove that and install a rubber sweep on both sides of the door?

thank you!

[localhost127]

one last question regarding the tape for the door;
my door is 1.75" thick.

is the black and gray tape the same material? you have more width selections in gray than you do black,
http://shop3.mailordercentral.com/supersoundproofing/prodinfo.asp?number=09-42745-2B
vs
http://shop3.mailordercentral.com/supersoundproofing/prodinfo.asp?number=09-42745-G3-75

my door being 1.75" means you dont have an extra width of tape for me ... so i'll just have to trim it a bit

[localhost127]

disregard that last question - it looks like i'll want to be taking the door frame, and *not* the edges of the door itself ... so last question is irrelevant.
e.g. see photos:
http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/926/door2g.jpg
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/197/doorc.jpg


but please confirm that the gray and black take are indeed the same material/quality/etc.

thanks,

[Randy S]

ok the black 1" tape is when you address BOTH the door stop and part of the jamb face. Which you have illustrated in your pics.
The gray PVC tape is for just addressing the door stop only.
 The reason for this, is if the tolerence from the door to the jam is less than 1/8" the door will tear the foam off the jamb face. Therefore you use the 1/4 width PVC tape.
 

[localhost127]

Randy,
thanks again for speaking with me.

I've ordered the following:

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
ITEM#          DESCRIPTION                            QTY    TOTAL
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
09-42746-T     SSP Transom Sound Seal Door Sweep      1   

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
09-42745-G3-75 SSP Gray PVC Tape for door             1     

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
09-42745-S     SSP Acoustical Sound Sealant (Caulk)   3   
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
09-42745-2B    SSP Black Vinyl-Nitrile Tape 1/8" thick  1     

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
09-42745-BS-1/2SSP Acoustical Sound Backer Square foam 2   
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


should get me started with taping the door / installing door sweep, as well as stuffing the ceiling gaps with the backer square and then finalizing with the acoustic caulk.

please let your boss(es) know the benefit of this forum and great communication was the reason i have made my purchase (and future purchases) through your company.

cheers!
keep you posted how things turn out.


also,
looking at the following image:
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/2059/doorframe.jpg
i know you said only to do the 1/8" thick, 1/2" width gray PVC tape for my door stop (marked in red)
on the left side of my door (dead-bolt side of the door), there is about a 3/8" gap all the way up and down, so i might experiment with squeezing one layer of 1/8" black tape in there as well. (blue markings in the photo) - i think 1 layer should fit uninterrupted when closing the door.

also,
looking at this image:
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/3038/img9118r.jpg
the metal door sweep on the outside of the door - after installing the rubber sweep on the inside, i might investigate installing another rubber sweep on the outside...as the metal sweep is essentially worthless (there just for physical protection of the door)

thanks again!

[localhost127]

and randy, i ordered the 1/2" thick gray PVC tape because my door stop is about 1/2" thick...but wouldnt it maybe make sense to order 1" thick and have it overlap a bit ???you would see a small amount of tape from looking at the door from the outside, but wouldnt the overlap help a little bit versus only having the tape stop at the leading edge?

[Randy S]

Yes overlap is fine as long as you create the seal,and for the 1" that would be fine also,as long as the door action doesnt tear the tape off the jamb or bind the tape up.

[localhost127]

received my first shipment

tested on the bathroom door first
gray pvc on the door stop (2 and even 3 layers in some places)
and also applied some of the black 2" thick tape along the door frame to fill the gap in a bit more (still plenty of room so the tape doesnt get caught on the door when closing).

very very solid feel now - im loving it.  turned the hair dryer on and shut the door - what a difference!
only sound is that coming from the small gap at the bottom of the door (nothing i can do since it has to swing over a bathroom rug)

can't wait to tackle the main entrance door tomorrow along with the door stop...

question on the door stop; am is the metal part supposed to be on the outside, or is the metal frame supposed to be on the inside (e.g. which orientation)...


also received some backer square, but the size is quite large (smallest you had was 1/2" thick)...and the gaps at my ceiling are smaller..so ill try trimming that down and then stuff in as much as possible - then caulk over.

[Randy S]

You mean on the Transom seal? if so, outside..you want to see all the aluminum of the sweep