Studio/Loft - Need soundproofing asap!!!

[localhost127]

yes, the door sweep/seal...got it - aluminum should be showing once installed.

[localhost127]

having more issues with the larger entrance door on taping the door seals...as things aren't perfectly aligned.

in some places, even one application of the 1/8" gray tape is too thick for the door to close properly...and others small spots can take 2-3 layers to form a good seal.

problem im going to have with the door sweep is, there is a gap difference between when i have the door shut (door sweep should be flush with the floor) and when i open it ... with there being a SMALLER gap when the door is swung open...so i might have to install the door sweep with a small gap at the bottom (when shut) so that it clears the floor when i swing the door fully open (so it doesnt catch)...less than optimal.

i have hard-wood floors. is there anything i could apply to the bottom of the door sweep like WD-40 or something to reduce the co-efficient of friction between the rubber door sweep and the floor (when sliding open)?  i dont want the rubber sweep getting caught/dragging/lots of friction on the floor when swinging it open. 

[Randy S]

Do the best you can do as far as the tape goes, this is quite common.
As for the door, fix the "action" of the door as it stands right now the door drops when opening therefore you will have to undo the top hing and chisle a couple mm of the wood to change the action.
Its better to have the door "lift" or level when opening as apposed to dropping as it is doing now.
Make sense?

[localhost127]

Yes, thank you

[Randy S]

So at lunch I realized you have the metal door.....you will need to shim the bottom hinge to aling the door .......

[localhost127]

randy, worked out pretty well...flush on one side of the door but the door sweep on the other side isn't perfectly flush (because the gap is smaller as i open my door).

however, i think ill order install another sweep on the other side of the door and it will be able to be mounted to the door gaurd mounted to the floor...so it'll be flush on that side...a little extra sound protection


now, on to my metal patio door to my porch;

see these photos:
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/368/img9174g.jpg
http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/2765/img9173u.jpg
http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/4531/img9172o.jpg
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/7280/img9171l.jpg


just order the door sweep for "metal doors" ? nothing special to comment on besides the width i need?
thanks!

[Randy S]

I would replace the threshold first!...that thing has seen better days!....they make some with a rubber loop on the threshold, or get one that is a bit wider so the transom has a ledge to seat itself on.
No matter what approach the seal is our goal.

[localhost127]

got it.
just moved in (michigan), so as the snow melts im finally able to take a look at things like this patio door...long ways to go.
ill let you know what i find, but ill start with the threshold!

[localhost127]

how long should the acoustic caulk take to cure/dry?
it's been 1.5 days and it's still putty-like to the point where i can smudge it around.

should i give it a few days before applying a second application?
thanks!

[localhost127]

http://shop3.mailordercentral.com/supersoundproofing/prodinfo.asp?number=09-42745-S
oh, i see it is meant to remain flexible.

how long until i should apply a 2nd coat?

[Randy S]

24 hours is fine...this caulk will never harden. you can paint over it if you like.