Author Topic: Soundproofing Bedroom - Ideas/Critiques welcome  (Read 5473 times)


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Soundproofing Bedroom - Ideas/Critiques welcome
« on: June 16, 2010, 05:43:03 PM »
My Project is quite simple (if acoustical dampening/blocking is ever simple) I need to contain sound in a room. Single story cabin, no basement. R50 loose fill cellulose in the ceiling and R40 loose fill cellulose in the floor.  I cannot even hear someone screaming from within the house in either the attic or crawlspace below the floor. My nearest neighbor is over 1 mile away so soundproofing windows and outside walls isn’t necessary. The windows are already Low-E argon filled double pane with amazingly good soundproofing qualities. The only reason I need to soundproof this at all is my wife gets lets say “kind of rambunctious” in the bedroom at times (I am not complaining after 25 years) and we have a 16 year old son whose bedroom adjoins ours with only a closet between.

The good thing is all interior walls are still unfinished (1/2” OSB on one side only. Electrical outlets are only on outside walls to the living room, Nothing between the rooms. My bedroom is framed out entirely in 2x6 framing. The reason for the OSB on the walls is there will be tongue and groove put over the OSB in the future. (Yes I HATE drywall)

Here is my plan,

The 2x6 walls will be filled with R21 Fiberglass Batts and then a 1 ½ x 1 ½  wood will be nailed horizontally across the interior studs (4 rails, One top, One Bottom, and two equally Spaced in the center. A second 1 ½ x 1 ½  wood will be placed just above the first with a angled edge on both pieces and closed cell PE foam between them. Then the interior OSB sheet will be attached to the second wood piece. This will decouple the interior wall covering from the stud wall. Below is a diagram of what I am talking about.

The exterior OSB has already been caulked to death using green glue acoustical sealant. The same will happen with the interior. I was thinking of adding green glue between the horizontal hanger and the OSB but wasn’t sure it would help much. I also may put green glue behind the tongue and groove for even more.

Recommendations/critiques are welcome.



Randy S

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Re: Soundproofing Bedroom - Ideas/Critiques welcome
« Reply #1 on: June 16, 2010, 06:21:26 PM »
Ok your concept is on the right track...The biggest problem I see here is all the wood!!! no good! but I understand aesthetics...
So here is what I will recommend...use SSP clips and dwfc instead of the wood furring you planned on using...far far better results...
I would also recommend cotton fiber insulation instead of blown in or fiberglass. We are a distributor of this product but you can buy it local and save freight charges.
Now for the important part... ambient noise problems require mass in order to reflect noise back to the source, when I do systems my goal is to the highest lb. per sqft. density ratio so I would use a combination of MLV stapled directly to the studs followed by the clips and channel then I would attach 5/8" drywall now on the back of your final panel use 3 tubes of green glue per 4'x8' sheet of your tongue and grove final not let the perimeter make contact to floor/ceiling and adjoining walls. the weight of the wall to be resting on ribbed neoprene pads every 2' on the floor, this way you prevent shorting out your floating wall.
Also keep in mind you will have a "flank" value from your exterior shared wall, however this should be minimum unless your banging on them...
If need be, my contact info is below feel free to give me a call.

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Re: Soundproofing Bedroom - Ideas/Critiques welcome
« Reply #2 on: June 18, 2010, 04:23:20 AM »
Greetings from

We think the isolation discussion is heading in the right direction, but seems to be focused on the wall alone.  There could potentially be controlling flanking paths that would make soundproofing efforts of the wall moot.  Our first concern are the doors (no plans or photos were uploaded).  Most residences have bedroom doors along a common corridor and are by far the weakest link in overall interior room isolation.  If so, you might need to consider solid core wood doors with adjustable neoprene gaskets (Zero, Pemko or National Guard).  Also ensure that the ductwork (supply and return, assuming a forced-air distribution system) do not create a flanking path under the wall via the crawlspace or above the wall via the attic.  If so, you may need to reroute ductwork or use internally lined ductwork.  We would also recommend sound absorbing materials inside the bedroom to help absorb some of the reflected energy that would otherwise be available to transmit through the wall (or other routes).  This is more beneficial if your room is large and has very little sound absorbing materials. We wish you the best of luck.

Experts at

Randy S

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Re: Soundproofing Bedroom - Ideas/Critiques welcome
« Reply #3 on: June 18, 2010, 03:09:00 PM »
Based on this quote.." I cannot even hear someone screaming from within the house in either the attic or crawlspace below the floor. "

Is the main reason we did not get into detail about "Flanking" otherwise it would have been discussed in further detail...and if your truly going to address flanking then you are talking about applying sound control to the entire room which becomes hard to justify unless you are really generating high db levels or if your causing structure borne impact, that too would change the approach.

The added comment regarding the door is 100% correct and you should be using a solid core door that is properly sealed.