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Author Topic: Hello from Australia  (Read 12583 times)

ukr

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Hello from Australia
« on: January 21, 2011, 10:54:09 PM »

Hi all
I thought o introduce myself first as I have been reading many of these interesting topics about soundproofing and I am really keen in soundproofing my timber frame windows with casement swinging windows with acrylic panes. Here in Oz we have some of these materials but not exactly the measurements that may be required i.e. seals and metal trims L shape.
There is always the local magnetite very expensive. Windows area like mine would cost AUD$6000 =USD$5800 .So I am on the quest for a most cost effective and efficient way to soundproof and increase thermal efficiency.
I may source some things from The US and make up a system here in OZ.

I would appreciate some assistance regarding the above
 
Thank you


Randy S

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Re: Hello from Australia
« Reply #1 on: January 25, 2011, 10:56:37 PM »

Sorry for the delay, you can use our magnaseal system over magnatite.
Use 3/8" plexi glass and you can have the magnetic tape shipped over.
http://www.soundproofing.org/sales/magnetseal_windows.htm
Randy Sieg

Super Soundproofing Co
www.soundproofing.org
888-942-7723
Ph. 760-752-3030
Fax.760-752-3040

ukr

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Re: Hello from Australia
« Reply #2 on: January 30, 2011, 11:01:07 AM »

Thank you Randy S
I wonder if pictures of a soundproofed windows can be posted for my benefit and others that like to compare special characteristics of fixtures and fittings?

Thank you

Randy S

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Re: Hello from Australia
« Reply #3 on: January 31, 2011, 05:12:01 PM »

I have seen so many variations of window treatments and it truly comes down to same goal.
Create the airtight seal between 2 panels of glass with the greatest air space between them.

http://www.soundproofing.org/sales/magnetseal_windows.htm

Based on your picture you provided it doesn't look like your going to get a huge airspace but anything at this point is better than what you have now.
Randy Sieg

Super Soundproofing Co
www.soundproofing.org
888-942-7723
Ph. 760-752-3030
Fax.760-752-3040

ukr

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Re: Hello from Australia
« Reply #4 on: January 31, 2011, 10:20:25 PM »

Yes I agree on the air space between frames is 7.8 inches and the acrylic can sit on 0.394 inches.

I have had laminated glass fitted in two large windows for twenty years and they work well although the insides got dirty over time.

I look forward to close the casement windows which are a pain to soundproof properly. Someone said to close all gaps as much as possible  with a good soundproof seal then place a secondary glass on top.
In any case do the L bracket have to run the whole perimeter of the window or just inserted in some corners to keep the panes in place? 

Most companies offer solutions here quote between $1800 and $2000 per window which in today's exchange rate difference between AUD/USD is almost at par which makes this type of exercise as in my case a very expensive proposition.

Randy S

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Re: Hello from Australia
« Reply #5 on: January 31, 2011, 10:52:13 PM »

yes the L-frame has to go around all 4 sides completely.

Randy Sieg

Super Soundproofing Co
www.soundproofing.org
888-942-7723
Ph. 760-752-3030
Fax.760-752-3040

ukr

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Re: Hello from Australia
« Reply #6 on: February 01, 2011, 05:22:01 AM »

hi Randy

I decided to expand the width of above frame by 1.5 inches that is to the end of the wall so the clearance will be 100 or 110mm in metric terms. I'll use new hardwood and dowelling system and butt joint with screws using the Kreg system that will give me enough support for a 10mm acrylic pain.
I do not know about holding such pane in place though taking into account the narrow rebate that I have in the existing window   

Randy S

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Re: Hello from Australia
« Reply #7 on: February 01, 2011, 05:09:26 PM »

I understand, but you will get better results by expanding the gap. Use some construction adhesive or caulking when you attach the new hardwood to avoid leaks under it.
Randy Sieg

Super Soundproofing Co
www.soundproofing.org
888-942-7723
Ph. 760-752-3030
Fax.760-752-3040

ukr

  • Guest
Re: Hello from Australia
« Reply #8 on: February 01, 2011, 08:46:05 PM »

Thanks Randy
Already thought to use Bostik Ultraset SF construction adhesive special for timber all around the perimeter when installing.
However, when it comes to this noise traveling through cracks I have an existing window frame that shows a small crack all along the top part of the frame little larger than a hairline crack. Now this double brick wall with a gap in between so I suspect this is due to structural changes and may be the fact that this particular window has had a laminated glass put about 20 years ago.
Do you have any idea how to fix this gap?
Thank you

Randy S

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Re: Hello from Australia
« Reply #9 on: February 01, 2011, 10:23:49 PM »

you can seal the gap with OSI H2U acrylic urethane sealant made by Henkel if you can get it there or similar product.
Randy Sieg

Super Soundproofing Co
www.soundproofing.org
888-942-7723
Ph. 760-752-3030
Fax.760-752-3040

ukr

  • Guest
Re: Hello from Australia
« Reply #10 on: February 03, 2011, 10:51:39 AM »

Thank you Randy

I do not know if I can find acrylic urethane sealant have to look at such product manufacturers here
Another questions I have is the thickness of your L profiles and how wide they should be?
Would it be possible to know in mm please?
Are these powder coated or just simply brushed steel?

The other is as I have removed the window band or timber beading I have found voids and larger cracks around the sash frame and the wall that these things covered for long time. Obviously the noise come through. What do I use for that Randy?


Thank you

Randy S

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Re: Hello from Australia
« Reply #11 on: February 03, 2011, 06:19:40 PM »

Im not sure what you have available to you in Oz. You have to airtight seal your windows that is the goal...
For the L-frame it is brushed steel it is 22mm wide on each leg. 
Randy Sieg

Super Soundproofing Co
www.soundproofing.org
888-942-7723
Ph. 760-752-3030
Fax.760-752-3040

ukr

  • Guest
Re: Hello from Australia
« Reply #12 on: February 22, 2011, 09:05:21 PM »

Thanks Randy
I come up with plain galvanised 20mm wide(0.7874) and 0.95 mm (0.0374015748 inches) thick profiles will butt jointed no L shape brackets since the cutting will affect the final shape (distorting due to the thickness of the material). I am not able to drill screw holes because the steel is not thick enough to make a countersink hole so they have to be glued with construction type glue. The reason I chose this thickness is because it is easy to cut with snippers other han that I need to use an angle grinder (no problems using it just little more work clamping and lot more sparks he!he!  

Would you suggest a thicker steel because in your profiles, you show screws in your schematics?

I have also a 25mm wide magnetic tape so I suppose to trim that to meet the steel profile for a 10 or an 8 mm plexiglass but some of my windows (lower parts will have laminated 6.38mm)

Would you recommend silica packets in the spaces between panes?

Thank you
Richard

Randy S

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Re: Hello from Australia
« Reply #13 on: February 22, 2011, 10:16:04 PM »

no need for a thicker steel...this is just so you can create the air tight seal.

As for the silica packs, yes it will help for condensation.
Randy Sieg

Super Soundproofing Co
www.soundproofing.org
888-942-7723
Ph. 760-752-3030
Fax.760-752-3040

ukr

  • Guest
Re: Hello from Australia
« Reply #14 on: February 24, 2011, 12:06:10 PM »

Hey thanks Randy
I now have changed to brushed stainless steel rather than galvanised for potential rust problem unless treated surface at a cost of $150 
I won't use screws because they need a countersink for the screws to go in hence thicker steel 1.5mm or .059inch so if thinner say 0.9mm or .035inch I can get away sticking strips  with a glue like Sikabond or Loctite magnetic tape of 24 mm or .95 inch  have a nice pull on a pexiglass per square cm2 or 0.001076 ft² or 0.15 in² I thought.