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[ukr]

A metals engineer told me that steel profile will eventually rust he said it is better to screw aluminum strips instead and increase the thickness of the magnetic tapes for greater pull for cm2
 

[Randy S]

aluminum is not magnetic.

[ukr]

aluminum is not magnetic.

Yes I am aware of that however there are 25mm self adhesive magnetic strips of reversed polarity so I thought may be mounted on aluminum.
In my case I have to expand the thickness of the window sil by 10mm. Wood in my case do not present an ideal flat surface whilst (cauking it to the wood)metal would.
So for me metal (stainless) different grades different magnetic propeties 304,316,430, 444 to name a few and corrosion parametres where alum does none.

[Randy S]

Ok great..let me know how it turns out.

[ukr]

Sure let you know however I hit a problem of tiny gaps between timber frame and solid brickwork where the frame sits on a film of vinyl I suppose
How do I cover this gaps?
Acrylic filler? I thinking to use expanding foam around the edges and use as filler in voids but it is quite messy. Any other alternatives?
Thanks
cheers!

 

[Randy S]

acrylic Urethane sealant or similar product.

[ukr]

Thanks randy
Now I have the problem of 9.5mm acrylic not holding by magnetic tapes I can use 13mm or 25mm still problems with large panes 1.8m x1.1 of heavy acrylic. I thought to use perimeter seals sitting on the rebate and pressure the panes against them with swiveling clips. I do not think there will be leaks or flanking noise but the only problem so far is the clips will make it slightly unsightly. What your thoughts?
 

[Randy S]

You will have to use the clips...unsightly but better safe then sorry.

[chiefy]

Hi, How did you go with soundproofing your windows? I'm also in Aus and would like to know where you sourced your acrylic, L-shaped steel brackets and where did you get the magnetic strips from? Was it successful, any tips or photos? Did you mount inside the window frame. Thanks.

[Joebudnik]

I'm also in Australia so I thought I would post my question here rather than start a new thread.

Planning to fix a 902mm (W) x 1050mm(H) 6.5mm thick clear acrylic piece externally above my front door to cover some lead light windows and the transom. I'm not to worried about it being removable so was planning to screw the acrylic piece with counter sunk screws directly to the timber frame above the door around the windows, and use some acoustic putty between the acrylic and timber to get a good seal. To tidy it up and cover screws was going to frame it with some wood and paint.

Is this a reasonable idea?

Thanks in advance, Joe.

[Randy S]

A bit of information for those following this thread, soundproofing windows have a few basic principles.

1)Making sure the windows are air tight sealed is the first step. New glazing and seals.
2) Adding a second pane with a mass value (1/4" min - 3/8" diminishing point).
3) AND THE MOST IMPORTANT (the secret sauce so to speak) The Air gap size!!! the distance between original window and second pane... THE LARGER THE AIR SPACE THE LOWER THE FREQUENCY ATTENUATED AND THE MORE REDUCTION YOU GET!!!...

When we do recording studios and control room windows the air gap can be anywhere from 8" to 18" spread!!!! Now keep in mind that in a studio we can separate the frames of each window..in a home you cant do this without building a new wall, so that will be where the sound path will remain at a certain value of transmission.

[Joebudnik]

Hi Randy,
           Not sure if your reply was for me or just general? Anyway the gap between the glass and acrylic if I screwed the acrylic pane to the timber would be 9 inches, as the windows are recessed back, so I figure that would be sufficient?

Let me know if I have missed something?

Cheers,
         Joe

[Randy S]

My reply is for both, you and people following this thread..

Your gap size is EXCELLENT!!!! you should see a quality reduction. The principles listed below stand true for all window systems.

So as long as you meet those requirements you should be satisfied with the results of your efforts...

If you miss part of the continuous seal you will know immediately, because the noise will be focused to that area. Sound acts just like water it will go to the area of least resistance.

Now when it comes to your trim work, try to have caulk between the acrylic and the wood trim. Avoid direct trim contact to acrylic this way vibration on the acrylic will only have the screw path back into the structure and not the additional path through the trim work...
 

[daytripper1970]

My reply is for both, you and people following this thread..

Your gap size is EXCELLENT!!!! you should see a quality reduction.

Thanks for the info Randy, very much appreciated.  I'll be starting my windows in the coming weeks.  I just have to pack out the cross frame (the frame holding 4 x windows within the larger frame), until they are flush with the outer frame, and viola....screw on some L Brackets, and clip on my 10mm acrylic window.  This will give me a 100mm (3.9") air gap; hopefully this will be enough 

Cheers