Trying to get a good idea of my benefit/outcome before I lay out $ and sweat

[srj19]

I've bought some regular rock and hat channel, and still need to get the green glue and soud deadening clips  needed to install double layer 5/8 sandwiched with Greenglue in the joist cavities of the ceiling, followed by hat channel on clips and a rocked, celing. Possibly with sound deadening rock.

I'm worried still though that even though this is supposed to be great sound proofing that it might not be able to give me peace. Is there is anything in particular about old houses that can negate all this work? My main concern is the squeeking an creeking hardwoods and the foot fall traffice that results in major "bass" coming down into my space. Assmuming I can re-route vents and apply the rock in the joists, with green glue and then the suspended ceiling, can I expect to have almost no issue with normal foot issues, or will I get reverbirations from the upper hardwooks, down the joists, into the top plate and down the studs into my level?

Thanks for you help,

[Randy S]

First of all the creaking floor has to be addressed by re screwing it down...MUST DO..
Then you should be using MLV
http://shop3.mailordercentral.com/supersoundproofing/products.asp?dept=28

before the clips and channel to control the cavity..just because your doing drywall and green glue in the cavity does not address the sound from the sides of joist and what does get through the sandwich...you will also need to put insulation in the cavity to help absorb the sound as it passes through.

http://shop3.mailordercentral.com/supersoundproofing/products.asp?dept=24

[srj19]

Sorry for a late reply, I'm not getting email notification of responses.

Well, I have the entire ceiling exposed. I'm hearing a lot of creating from the harwood and sub floor up stairs. Did you mean that I should simply crew down through the hardwood up stairs through the sub floor and into the joists to quiet things? The hardwood is not finishe but just carpeted so no bid deal there if that's the case. Adding the two rock and green glue layers directly to a creaking subfloor wont' show much improment w/o addressing this first?

[srj19]

I forgot thise as well...

When it comes to hardwoods with their individual planks, not to mention the individual subfloor planks in old old houses, does it make any sense to add a layer of 1/2 (or greater) plywood to bond all these part together before adding the 2 rock/green glue sandwich layers? Seems to make sense to lessen individual boar movement plus add some mass.

Do you have any tips on the gauge of resilient channel I should be using? I picked up the standard 25 gauge at the Depot but I'm concerned, especially if I double layer the celining that I'll need a stronger gaufe such as 22 or 20. Maybe I should skip the two layer of finished ceiling dryway and just go with  one layer of Quiet rock, any thoughts on that plan?

[Randy S]

I agree with the addition of plywood..therefore. plywood/green glue/sheet rock..you still need to control the cavity with MLV.
25 gauge is fine for channel...make sure your using RC2 for ceiling not RC1.

Not a fan of quiet rock...but if you control the cavity fine.

[srj19]

Tell me more Randy, I was pursuing what I've herd is the best total approach to sound. (Two layers of green glue sandwiched 5/8 rock under the subfloor in every joist cavity, and a decoupled ceiling built using RSIC rubber insulated clips such as these  http://www.acousticalsurfaces.com/rsic_clips/risc_clips.htm

Standard R19 paper backed Insulation.

The finished dryway being two layers of green glue sandwiched, and not touching any sideways, sealed with acoustial cauling and finished taped.

Would the MLV still play a part in a system like this?

[Randy S]

Ok, This is normally done by the phone due to the sheer volume of information.

1) decouple from structure or vibrating surfaces.
2) add barrier to control and contain the cavity.
3) add absorption in the cavity
4) dampen the final surface.

These are your main principles, materials will dictate the quality of the system. The installation will dictate the performance. Install your system wrong and you will get some reduction but not even close to what the system could reduce making it hard to justify the money spent on the system.

Call me to discuss, its worth it..

Randy S.
760-752-3030 ext 104
888-942-7723 toll free

[srj19]

OK,

What's your time zone and a good time to call?

Scott

[Randy S]

8 am- 5 pm PST Mon-Fri
8 am- 12 noon PST Sat.

[ArminRU]

Any updates to your project? I'm getting ready to start the same project and would like to know how it turned out.