Author Topic: Seeking Advice On How to Proceed  (Read 3659 times)


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Seeking Advice On How to Proceed
« on: August 20, 2013, 12:31:44 AM »
Our bedroom shares a common wall with my neighbor's living room. We recently bought the co-op and prior to moving in reinforced the common wall with green glue and additional sheet rock. The contractor used two tubes of green glue per sheet of dry wall and also caulked around the edges and in between drywall sheets. After the wall was spackled and sanded, thick moldings were put up at the ceiling and at the floor. We had carpet with 6 lb. padding installed on the floor as well. Although we can no longer hear specific conversation from my neighbors, we can still hear talking and the floor creaking when they walk behind the wall, and most bothersome is their TV/music/video games that go all day and late into the night/early morning. We thought we had solved the problem with the green glue, but it doesn't seem to have made a tremendous difference. We're not sure what else to do at this point. My contractor said he can put some insulation in the attic space above in case the sound is travelling through the ceiling. We can also try to insulate the two electric outlets with putty. We can also put some green glue and dry wall in the closet, the end of which is also common to the neighbor's living room. However, it is packed with clothing so I'm not sure this would make a real difference. Would a padded fabric headboard make a difference? I've thought of creating a headboard using acoustical foam on the back of plywood and batting and covering it with fabric. I've even thought of putting foam padding on the backs of the nightstands, or putting fabric wrapped acoustic tiles on the wall to try to absorb sound. We don't really want to spend more money on things that will not work as the green glue wall was an expense. We've read a lot about how sound travels and it seems hard to believe it could travel through an electrical outlet or from above the ceiling when I hear it through the wall, but we are desperate. If anyone has any suggestions or advice it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

P.S. - It appears that the original wall was not insulated but just dry wall on 2 x 4 studs. Based on what I've read about how green glue works, it would seem the addition of the green glue and additional dry wall would still have been a good option.

Randy S

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Re: Seeking Advice On How to Proceed
« Reply #1 on: August 20, 2013, 04:33:57 PM »
ok, lets go down the list:
First off, sound will always go to the area of least resistance, this allows a flanking noise value when you only address a single partition. Therefore you automatically lose some value of reduction from the soundproofed wall. Even an outlet or switch box untreated can reduce the overall value of the wall.
you didnt see the full value from the green glue because the wall is not insulated..big mistake...this allows sound to sit and reverberate. The green glue is a good product to use and it works.
If their TV or speakers are in contact with the wall itself then the noise is structural vibration as well as airborne sound and would require you to decouple the wall to break that direct path through the wall.
The moldings should not have made contact to the floor or ceiling, a gap should have been left and caulked...this put the flanking noise back across the shared wall.

Your floor squeaking is due to the subfloor coming un nailed and should be re screwed, soundproofing will not stop this type of structural noise.
Your bed should not touch the wall, the head board idea will not work.
Forget the closet unless it is obvious sound is coming from that location. When soundproofing single partitions, you are basically moving sound to another area of least resistance and creating energy loss....moving it around the room so to speak..There is no such thing as 100% soundproof...its only a value of reduction based on the principles and material used.

Here is what I would try...
First, find out if the neighbors tv or speakers are touching the wall. If so the battle is over unless you get them to take them down or you go back and decouple the wall.

have the wall insulated, even with blown in would be better than nothing. I know people will get on me for this recommendation but the cavity can not be left empty.

Feel free to contact me directly when you find out what is going on next door.

Randy S.
760-752-3030 ext 104



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Re: Seeking Advice On How to Proceed
« Reply #2 on: August 20, 2013, 11:29:48 PM »
Thank you very much, Randy, for the advice and insight. Unfortunately I found out after the green glue went up that there was no insulation. I should have asked but it didn't even occur to me. I will see what I can find out about how the neighbor's TV/speakers are positioned. The molding on the ceiling did require caulk because of the ceiling being uneven. The floor molding is on top of the carpet. We might have the entire floor ripped up and have insulation put in and then plywood and re-pad and carpet. It shouldn't be too much hassle to re-lay the same piece of carpet we just put in.

Even if the headboard is padded with acoustical foam it should not touch the wall? When using a headboard what should we put behind the headboard to keep it from touching the wall? Would foam pieces to keep it away from the wall be okay?

Thanks again!

Randy S

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Re: Seeking Advice On How to Proceed
« Reply #3 on: August 20, 2013, 11:52:50 PM »
sure you can use the foam to pad the head board, but personally I would just move the bed 1" to 2" away from the wall completely. no contact what so ever... :)

remember, if your dealing with air borne sound that is one thing and easier to deal with..when dealing with structural vibration it is like chasing your tail...not as easy what so ever. Avoid hard connections every chance you get...rule of thumb in the soundproofing world (known as decoupling from the structure or vibrating surfaces).