Author Topic: Hat channel or 3 layers of board  (Read 1103 times)

adrianwarland

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Hat channel or 3 layers of board
« on: June 24, 2015, 12:57:57 AM »
HI

I'm planning a drumming room by sectioning off one end of my basement (10'x6' but only 6'2" high with original ceiling stripped).  Basement is full depth underground with suspended wooden floor above (2"x7" joists I think, its an C1900  house).  I have researched and am thinking of going staggered stud dividing wall(fiberglass insulation, 2x 15mm standard plasterboard/drywall with greenglue on inside and just board on outer side), but am unsure how to treat the ceiling.

I'm only concerned about airborne noise into the rest of the house (not impact downwards), so would I be better spending the budget and limited height on 3 layers of board with GG between screwed direct to joists, or have 2 layers and use clips and hat channel to provide a disconnect.

Also what is the best material(s) to 'cheaply' absorb the extreme (low and high) frequencies within the room.

all advice welcome


Randy S

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Re: Hat channel or 3 layers of board
« Reply #1 on: June 24, 2015, 03:31:02 PM »
Do the clips and channel with 2 layers with green glue.. The decoupling is extremely important when dealing with low frequencies.

You can make your own absorption panels with cotton fiber insulation or similar product.

Randy S.
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adrianwarland

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Re: Hat channel or 3 layers of board
« Reply #2 on: June 24, 2015, 09:50:12 PM »
Thanks for the swift response.  I have now pulled the ceiling down and actually have a couple more inches than I thought so channel should be no loss on current height.

I had a couple of additional thoughts

The basement is 'tanked' with a sort of large hard plastic bubble layer then 2x1 batten then std drywall.  If I butt up to this with the new dividing wall, will this provide a significant flanking point.  Even if I take the current board and batten down and seal the stud/wall transition, I will still have a 'gap' behind the tanking sheet.

The point at which I am going to install the new dividing wall as at a narrow point where pillars 12"x12" protrude into the room.  I assume that this provides better mass/absorption than my new wall so there is no advantage to moving the position to include this inside the new room.

Now I just have to work on the door details!?

Thanks