Help with '97 Honda Civic EX

[Patrick]

I'm in the middle of upgrading my car stereo, including replacing the front components with Diamond Audio M561s.  While I have the doors apart, I wanted to work on sound deadening the doors.  (The car is already relatively quiet, but more is better...or maybe less is more...)
I had been using p/n 9709T18 from McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com).  This is a heavy (0.7 lbs/sq ft), cheap self-adhesive sheet of asphalt-based damping mastic.  I got one door finished before I ran out, now they have a 19 day backorder, so I need something quick!
I am also considering adding some material under the carpet while I have the car apart.  I definitely want to add some material to the trunk as well.
Q: Should I rip out what I have done on the driver's door so that both doors will use the same material?
Q: What material should I use in the doors?  The vinyl nitrile foam?  If so, what thickness is preferred or at least adequate (I'm on a budget)?
Q: Do I use the same stuff in the trunk as the doors?
Q: Use mass loaded vinyl for the floor?  If so, do I need the foam backing?  Does the whole surface area of the floor need to be covered?
Q: Do you sell your adhesive in smaller quantities, or is there an alternative?  I'm guessing I don't need a quart for this application.
Q: Do you sell (or can you recommend) a spray-on deadener similar to Dynashield for hard to reach areas?
Thanks!

[bjnash]

: I'm in the middle of upgrading my car stereo, including replacing the front components with Diamond Audio M561s.  While I have the doors apart, I wanted to work on sound deadening the doors.  (The car is already relatively quiet, but more is better...or maybe less is more...)
: I had been using p/n 9709T18 from McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com).  This is a heavy (0.7 lbs/sq ft), cheap self-adhesive sheet of asphalt-based damping mastic.  I got one door finished before I ran out, now they have a 19 day backorder, so I need something quick!
: I am also considering adding some material under the carpet while I have the car apart.  I definitely want to add some material to the trunk as well.
: Q: Should I rip out what I have done on the driver's door so that both doors will use the same material?
A: No, what counts is results.
: Q: What material should I use in the doors?  The vinyl nitrile foam?  If so, what thickness is preferred or at least adequate (I'm on a budget)?
A: Yes, use the foam cemented to the inside sheet metal.  Use at least 1/8", more is better, depending on your budget.
: Q: Do I use the same stuff in the trunk as the doors?
A: Yes, but thicker: 1/2" is found to be best.  
: Q: Use mass loaded vinyl for the floor?  If so, do I need the foam backing?  Does the whole surface area of the floor need to be covered?
A: Yes, it needs to be completely covered, use the foam backing kind if it will fit, otherwise use the plain vinyl.  
: Q: Do you sell your adhesive in smaller quantities, or is there an alternative?  I'm guessing I don't need a quart for this application.
A: You can buy a pint, but it goes fast- maybe a quart would be better.
: Q: Do you sell (or can you recommend) a spray-on deadener similar to Dynashield for hard to reach areas?
A: use our "Liquid", it will spray or brush on.  
The most "Bang for the Buck" in soundproofing a car is the hood, followed by the floor, then the trunk.  You may want to download the booklet at the URL below about soundproofing airplanes: it's very similar to cars and has a lot of useful info.

: Thanks!

• Soundproofing planes, boats and cars.

[Patrick]

: A: use our "Liquid", it will spray or brush on.  
: The most "Bang for the Buck" in soundproofing a car is the hood, followed by the floor, then the trunk.  You may want to download the booklet at the URL below about soundproofing airplanes: it's very similar to cars and has a lot of useful info.
What is the correct material for the hood?  I'm assuming it needs to be heat resistant!

[bjnash]

: : A: use our "Liquid", it will spray or brush on.  
: : The most "Bang for the Buck" in soundproofing a car is the hood, followed by the floor, then the trunk.  You may want to download the booklet at the URL below about soundproofing airplanes: it's very similar to cars and has a lot of useful info.
: What is the correct material for the hood?  I'm assuming it needs to be heat resistant!
A: Use the absorbent mat in as thick as can be fitted, even trimming away if necessary: 2" is best.  I've had it under the hood of my MBZ for 9 years...

• Soundproofing prices

[Matthew Shoemaker]

Yes you should
if the deadening products are not the same you might get different sound quality out of the system
I have been in the car audio for 7 years now and I have been installing for 5 years.
But the choice is yours but coming from a professional you should do the whole car in the same product to get same sound quality out of your system.