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Hey guys,

I'm trying to do a budget soundproof of a garage for a recording studio, and I already did some construction (basically built a removable wall inside of the garage door and added a 2nd layer of drywall on resilient channels to the rest of the garage walls.) My removable wall is 2 thin wood sheets sandwiching a layer of foam insulation inside.  It helps with most of the frequencies, but I can still hear low car rumbling noises from the street.

I don't really have much more to spend on it.  I did notice that the inside of the garage door is divided into panels that I could easily stick sheets of something into.  Do you think there's any cheap material that I could use for that?

Or are there any other ideas you might have?  Also realized the garage door opener mechanics are still bolted straight into the ceiling joists and maybe that's transmitting vibrations... do you think some sort of sound dampening bolting system would be worth it?

I am looking to convert my laundry room (1st floor, next to driveway/ semi-busy 35mph street) into a bedroom.
It currently has drywall on 3 sides, and 1950s plaster on driveway side (and I believe ceiling).

I am considering the option of opening all walls and redoing some electrical, and re-closing them with modern methods. Sound absorption is important to me, and I would like to not be able to hear conversations/cars in the bedroom (driveway wall).

I hear it's good, but I was not able to find the STC of plaster&lathe. Does anyone know it?
My plaster is 1" thick with a gypsum board as base & mesh wire.

How do the current methods compare to plaster?
I am familiar with the MLV/clip & furring channels, having installed your products in another room.

Is it worth opening this wall to add a couple romex cables, or should I leave it untouched?
or just fur over it and try to fish the romex through the ceiling instead?

It is worth noting that this wall has a window, making decoupling through channels tricky.
You would need to contact me direct in order for me to assist you in understanding why you are having a difficult time acquiring that information.
Far to much post here...literally a book..

Randy S.
elevation(topography), distance, temperature, frequency and intensity all contribute to how you are receiving the noise from the road. 
In order for you to see even the minimal reduction you would have to put a very tall wall either close to the source(best) or close enough to you for the shadow zone to give a value of reduction.

Feel free to contact me direct for more in depth explanation.

Randy S.
Hi all,

Going a little crazy trying to find ratings for combined flooring and ceiling ratings.  Does anyone know of a comprehensive source?  I'm picking up breadcrumbs here and there.

Question, which would be more effective for footfall?   Double 3/4" OSB with GG between or 3/4" OSB with a layer of 2mm underlayment under another layer of 3/4" OSB?

Do we know what sound ratings would be for a common install like the following?

3/4" OSB
Green Glue
3/4" OSB
Wood joists
double 5/8 drywall with GG.

Any tidbits would be greatly appreciated.  I"m looking for the cheapest and easiest solution for new construction / gut jobs/ condo conversions in brick rowhouses where the units are on top of each other.

And for those who have installed underlayments, what's the cheapest adhesive out there?  The adhesive is proving to cost more than the underlayments.
Yes acoustical conditioning will improve the interior noise levels.

Cover as much of the surface as you can.

The more you cover the faster the absorption happens and the quieter it is..

Randy S.
For instance in the game room with the kids, all the noises they make seem to be ear piercing indoors, but completely tolerable outdoors. Not just loud voices, but things like toys clacking against a table or the sounds the toys themselves make.

it's a small square room, maybe 10 x 10 with carpet and painted drywall walls. If i add something like pyramid acoustical tiles to the walls, will sounds "seem" quieter?
I always recommend 3/8" acrylic.

The seal has to be around all 4 sides of the window frame, otherwise you will have a potential leak.

Call me and I will tell you another option.

Randy S.
Randy, thank you! I really appreciate the advice.

What material and thickness would you recommend for the panels? I was originally looking at custom cuts of plexiglass acrylic sheets 1/4" myself, but not certain on best material for price/effectiveness.

The more I look into this the more the magnet seal seems to be the way to go. The compression has faults like you said and I'll get a better gap with the magnets.

I'm thinking of maybe using just double sided magnetic tape on the left and top that just tapes to frame, placed in the center of the very outer part of the frame. Then for the bottom sill maybe go with an inverted piece of the L frame there, so only screws there. Would need to make sure that bottom frame is lined up flush for the seal. I'd go with the metal frame all the way around if there was a way I could secure it without screws/nails.

My profile is setup now to receive emails, you can email me directly other ideas if you would like.

Hi Potato,

Ok, a few things I see which validates your concern.
1) the magnetic system needs a steel perimeter to create the seal and using our system would require you to use the L-frame as corner pieces for the 2 sides and top. the bottom frame would need to be inverted allowing the acrylic to rest on the sill and magnetize to the face of to inverted L-frame. (flush mount for max air gap) and you would have to screw in the L-frame.
This is important because you need to achieve the greatest air gap possible to make this cost effective.

The solution for soundproofing windows is "mass / gap / mass"  how you get there can be a number of ways but in the end the airtight seal, air space and mass is the key.

The problem with the other product you mention indow window only uses max 1/4" acrylic which in most cases is not enough mass for a quality reduction based on the cost. The rubber tube around the perimeter is a weak spot in the system.
The other side of the coin is the air gap, 1" is not ideal normally I recommend 2" or greater.

If you want to do this with a compression seal you need a neoprene foam or EDPM seal that is solid and not hollow and figure out how to attach it to the acrylic. This is the problem we ran into when we first designed this system back in 1997..trying to keep cost down the foam seal ended up needing a channel(frame) to keep it in place when compressed in the window. this brought the cost up more then we wanted. Just gluing it was only feasible if you where not removing the insert and like indow would be a weak spot in the system.

I have another method to attach this system but you will need to call me direct.

Randy S.

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