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To keep the answer basic, if you had a 2% leak you could lose up to 60% of the potential performance of the assembly..

To give you a bit more detail, the end result of having said leak would depend on the intensity of the noise source your trying to block. So the quieter the source is the leak might be so bad but when you get into higher decibel levels it would be quite obvious the assembly is not working.

look at like driving a car down the freeway with the windows rolled up, you have some value of sound control / reduction. just reach over and crack the window an 1/8" and see what happens.

Hope this helped

Randy S.
I am considering trying to build a "semi sound proof" space.  Rather then go into exact details, I'd like to ask a VERY general question regarding sound proofing.   

If I wish to build a barrier, say for example, a wall, to split a room in half and block sound from traveling from one side to the other, what would be the impact of a small gap in such a barrier ?  For example, a 10 foot wall that goes from the floor to 1 inch from the ceiling ?

Is the physics of sound such that any such gap would make the reduction in sound from such a wall only 5%, when the full floor to ceiling wall might reduce the sound 90 % ?

I understand my terminology may not be proper, and my question very vague.
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Bedroom window facing train tracks
« Last post by Randy S on August 23, 2018, 03:28:19 PM »

67dba down to 40's is quite a bit of reduction through a window... you might have to do both to get that value.

If you do the 3/8" acrylic insert on a magnetic system you can get around 10db reduction.

I can not tell you to go against the city but if you have to get into the 40's I do not see any option besides doing the quietline and the second insert..not going to be cheap and no guarantees. If you already have a Tuscany series window you might only see 5-6 db in additional reduction.

I would have to say that the city must understand the difficulty level here based on the source.

Randy S.
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Bedroom window facing train tracks
« Last post by Slin on August 22, 2018, 03:21:34 PM »
Hello, Randy,
My bedroom window is quite large and it is facing train tracks.  When the train passes it register 67
Decibel inside using iPhone decible meter.  I need to reduce it down to 40’s. 
I already have my wall “floated” on isolation clips, hat channels, and quietrock plus batt.
The window is 58” by 45” Milguard double pane slider.
I have at least 3.5” air space between exterior Milguard and second new window.
City does not like second window because it reduces egress. 
It is a rental property and I am obligated to make it “quiet”.  Shall I go against the City and install a secondary glaze or buy an Quietline?

Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Advice for larger window cavities
« Last post by Randy S on August 08, 2018, 03:45:25 PM »
I have had this problem when dealing with larger windows and what I normally recommend are using mirror clips.
seen here.

Best Regards,

Randy S.
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Advice for larger window cavities
« Last post by laam10 on August 08, 2018, 05:23:46 AM »
Old thread, but I am doing a similar size (2.5mx1.7m in 10mm thick) (yes it was very heavy) I have it all installed and resting on a ledge but the magnet isnt strong enough to hold it to the wall, it is bowing slightly in the middle so we arent getting a complete seal. There is a noticeable reduction in noise even like this, but would be better with a total seal. Any tips to prevent this with large panels? I was thinking of clamping it on, but that would detract even further from the appearance.

Firstly, usual disclaimers, new here, please redirect if this is the wrong forum etc. etc.!

OK, I have just moved house and have been "given" one room to use as my home studio / office. I intend to be recording videos and mostly speech, so my need it to isolate the room as much as possible from exterior sounds. (Preventing sound I make from escaping is not a significant requirement!)

The room is ground floor, so to sub-floor is concrete. Two walls are exterior, one is interior and one is between me and the garage. There are two windows and one door. It is 10' high, 10'wide and 17' long.

Currently, I "suffer" from a variety of exterior noise ranging from the family (TV, the dog, kids etc) to outside (folks cutting their grass, building work and so on).

I plan to do the whole "room in a room" thing, and have been reading up on it, watching tutorials and so on. I have some questions as to how to proceed, though!

Please remember, when answering, that I am on a limited budget, so cannot afford to "experiment". Yes, I will spend if I need to, but don't want to just throw money at the problem until I get the quiet I need!!!


  • Floor. I read that one way to isolate from lower frequencies is to build the floor on tennis balls. Sounds crazy, but also seems to make some sense. I figured that I could put down a frame of relatively thin wood (1/2" or thereabouts) with holes in it to locate the balls. Then sit a frame on top of the balls to hold the flooring itself. Between the rafters, I would then pack sound insulation material to isolate the higher frequencies. Is this a sensible approach?
  • Walls. These would be mounted on top of the floor and have a gap (1-2") from the room's existing walls. I'm thinking 2x4 with sound insulation between. Then channel mounted to the studs and two layers of 5/8" drywall mounted to this. Again, is this sensible?
  • Some sources suggest wooden studs while other swear by steel. Which would you guys suggest is preferable?
  • Is Green Glue worth investing in for between the two layers of drywall?
  • The final layer, inside the room, will be quilted "moving blankets". These will be black to help control light within the studio and should also dampen any reverberation or echo. Will I require further absorption panels?
  • How concerned should I be about opposite, parallel surfaces? I understand these should be avoided, but how far "off" do they need to be and how much need I worry?
  • I will probably want to mount some large-screen monitors on the walls within the studio. Ordinarily, the weight of these would require that the mounting hardware be affixed directly to the wall studs, however this will obviously "short" out the the isolation. Can anyone suggest a solution?
  • Similarly, I was hoping to have power outlets, network ports and the like recessed into the walls. Is this likely to cause me issues?
  • The ceiling. This will, naturally, sit on top of the walls (so will not touch the "real" ceiling). I am undecided on its construction, though. Any ideas/advice?

Any advice / suggestions greatly appreciated! Please be gentle, though, I'm very much new to all this!

Thank you,

Hi all,

I’ve (a pro actually, not me) built a studio room withinin my garage 3x2.5x2m approx.

I have insulation structure OSB3, 45kg insulation wool and light membrane and bare studs. I said I’d sound proof the inside myself for costs!

I’m thinking of using
 GTec DB Board 15mm

My question is does anyone think my idea of backing the DB Board with TecSound SY 50 sound membrane and using Green Glue for adhesive and extra proofing a good idea?!

My aim is to also separate the DB board using a isolation clips and funnels!

I’m hoping this will help sufficiently before I then treat the room with egg and bass foam corners etc?

Any thoughts or experience would be greatly appreciated!


Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Sound proofing condo near airport
« Last post by Randy S on June 20, 2018, 04:46:26 PM »
I see what your trying to attempt, this is the same issue we deal with in commercial store fronts.

Best to use 1 piece of acrylic and not try the mount to the aluminum frame..this will also give you a larger air gap and achieve a better reduction.

if you chose to go your route you will either have to screw into the aluminum or glue the frame to it..

Randy S.
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Sound proofing condo near airport
« Last post by jakew on June 20, 2018, 04:20:52 PM »
Thank you Randy for your reply.
I don't plan to leave blinds inside the gap. If anything I may uninstall the blinds and reinstall it further away but that is too complicated for now.
As for the double pane issue, since I have a vertical aluminum bar in the middle, I plan to use that bar to install separate vertical mounting frames on the left (for the left pane) and on the right (for the right pane.) That would leave the middle aluminum bar uncovered by either pane. But the glasses will all be covered with no air leak. Would you think that the middle bar could become a weak point? (aluminum is not great in blocking sound I guess?)

STC 37-40 sounds great. I do want to use a more precise sound meter in the future to compare results. But if I can further reduce the 55db jet sound down to 40-45 that would be great. The noise is mainly jet cutting through air, so higher frequency I guess.
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