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Hi, so I am totally new here. I live in a condo, I have a large, commercial-grade water heater right under my bedroom. It is set to a certain temperature and every time it runs, the fan is making a noise and vibration. It runs 24 hours even during midnight which makes me awake. I talk with the manager and he said that we don't have budget for the soundproof. I just want to know if there is anyway that I can damper the sound. I already put a carpet on my floor……

Thank you.
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Other Soundproofing Questions / Model Railroad Sound Deadening
« Last post by Alizar33 on January 29, 2019, 09:54:13 PM »
I am creating a model rail road and want to deaden the sound generated when the train runs on the rails.  The benchwork is made with 2x4 and 2x2 members.  The top surface is made with 1/2 inch plywood.  On this I would like to place sound deadening material.  I was thinking about Homasote 440 Sound Barrier.  On this I would lay the track.  The track I use is made by Lionel and is the Fastrack line.  It has a hollow plastic roadbed that carries the noise of the train running on the track.  Is there a better material to use other than Homasote 440 Sound Barrier?
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Awesome thank you for the input, i guess i have some work to do!
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mass law is mass law.
just make sure it is heavier as our cement board is 3lbs sqft at 1/2" .
now what you want to do is glue and screw the layers together for dampening, this will keep the layers from vibrating.

based on your noise source this should work just fine.

Randy S.
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option C is the best choice and if you need more reduction just add more layers of cement board.
Just make sure your frame doesnt touch the current wall.

Randy S.

Thanks for the info Randy! I will try and get the thickest version and make a room within a room. Someone i spoke to had a brainwave regarding mass. They have some laminate flooring available close by, for free if its picked up. His idea was that this stuff is very heavy, so adding a couple of layers would increase the mass more than the cement board or OSB. Any thoughts on this? Would the mass of 3 layers of laminate flooring be more effective than one layer of osb for example?
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 option C is the best choice and if you need more reduction just add more layers of cement board.
Just make sure your frame doesnt touch the current wall.

Randy S.
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Hi there, hope somebody can help me out with this, even though im on the other side of the pond  ;) (Netherlands)

I need to insulate my garage, as its driving the neighbors crazy.. My aquarium hobby is getting out of hand and the garage is right next to a little patio where the neighbors have their thee of whatever it is they are doing there. I've got a couple of aquarium and im selling live rock and corals. Which means i always have a couple of heaters running, and a lot of pumps. It basically sounds like niagara falls in there  ::) I have a ton of solar panels so the heating is not really an issue but the insulation would help with that as well. Main priority is sound though, i would like to make it so they cant hear a thing. The plus side is that i don't have a sub-woofer of drum set in there, so its mostly high frequency sound i think.

From what ive been reading i need mass, a separated wall from the main structure, and some sort of airy material or an air gap. I've got a good deal on some insulation nearby, so i was hoping to use that. Its 1,5 inch layer of compressed stone wool, with a board attached to it that is made of wood fibers with cement mixed in. My thinking here is that its heavier than normal insulation, and did i mention its dirt cheap?  ;D (2 bucks a m2)

Here is an example of the board im referring to, i understand its widely used in ceilings to absorb sound going to the floor above.

( https://i.ibb.co/8YtdMKQ/86.jpg )

Here is a simple drawing of the space im working with:

( https://i.ibb.co/FgqLR5M/garage-plattegrond.jpg )

And a couple of ideas i had about what to use and where (Dont mind the l33t paint skills  ;D ). The columns are tricky as they come in to the space and are attached to the wall, so they have a lot of mass but i cant put 10 inches in front of them because i would lose to much space. I can sacrifice about 3 of 4 inches from the columns into the room, plus the depth of the columns itself (4 inches).

( https://i.ibb.co/PQ8mwdS/isolatie.jpg )

A couple of minor issues that rule out certain materials:
- I cant use drywall on the outside layer, as the saltwater will destroy it pretty quick.
- I cant get the green glue stuff over here, and shipping + import taxes would kill any sort of budget. Its still a hobby so i cant spends thousands unfortunately, i do have diy skills though, so materials are the only costs.

Hope someone can help me out with the design though, because there are a millions ways to go about this.
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Soundproofing your Condo, Townhouse or Bed & Breakfast / Re: CEILING SOUNDPROOFING
« Last post by Randy S on January 08, 2019, 04:17:25 PM »
Using the factory edge is my go to because on all my site visits I rarely find guys snapping drywall perfect and it is really visible from sheet to sheet around the perimeter.

I like your idea, how would you hide the corner bead and keep a straight caulking gap the length of the perimeter?

I am really interested in how that looks when finished. This is something we deal with often and is hard to fix without removing sheets of drywall. this could be an instant fix.


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Soundproofing your Condo, Townhouse or Bed & Breakfast / Re: CEILING SOUNDPROOFING
« Last post by guarddog on January 08, 2019, 02:13:40 AM »
Yes, that looks good.  Using the factory edge always may not be so ideal, depending on the room.

I was thinking about using a corner bead as well as an option.  Just embedding the side on the ceiling and pushing the other edge up in the gap, then caulk.

I made a little image, attached.

So I could try the factory edge and use the bead if the factory edge does not work out well enough.
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Soundproofing your Condo, Townhouse or Bed & Breakfast / Re: CEILING SOUNDPROOFING
« Last post by Randy S on January 07, 2019, 04:27:57 PM »
The key to this is to make sure you are only using factory edge of the drywall and exact shim sizes.
once the caulking is installed use a caulking corner tool to finish while wet.
coat with a primer and paint, it actually looks good when done right.
if you are going to use molding simply caulk drywall gap first then when installing the molding leave an 1/8" from the molding to the ceiling and attach molding to the wall only and finish the same way with caulking the gap to the ceiling, primer and paint.

I've attached a photo of a corner done with just caulking and primer (before paint) ignore the foam bumper shown, this is for the isolated floor.

Randy S.
760-752-3030
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