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Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Advice for larger window cavities
« Last post by Randy S on August 08, 2018, 03:45:25 PM »
I have had this problem when dealing with larger windows and what I normally recommend are using mirror clips.
seen here.

Best Regards,

Randy S.
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Advice for larger window cavities
« Last post by laam10 on August 08, 2018, 05:23:46 AM »
Old thread, but I am doing a similar size (2.5mx1.7m in 10mm thick) (yes it was very heavy) I have it all installed and resting on a ledge but the magnet isnt strong enough to hold it to the wall, it is bowing slightly in the middle so we arent getting a complete seal. There is a noticeable reduction in noise even like this, but would be better with a total seal. Any tips to prevent this with large panels? I was thinking of clamping it on, but that would detract even further from the appearance.

Firstly, usual disclaimers, new here, please redirect if this is the wrong forum etc. etc.!

OK, I have just moved house and have been "given" one room to use as my home studio / office. I intend to be recording videos and mostly speech, so my need it to isolate the room as much as possible from exterior sounds. (Preventing sound I make from escaping is not a significant requirement!)

The room is ground floor, so to sub-floor is concrete. Two walls are exterior, one is interior and one is between me and the garage. There are two windows and one door. It is 10' high, 10'wide and 17' long.

Currently, I "suffer" from a variety of exterior noise ranging from the family (TV, the dog, kids etc) to outside (folks cutting their grass, building work and so on).

I plan to do the whole "room in a room" thing, and have been reading up on it, watching tutorials and so on. I have some questions as to how to proceed, though!

Please remember, when answering, that I am on a limited budget, so cannot afford to "experiment". Yes, I will spend if I need to, but don't want to just throw money at the problem until I get the quiet I need!!!


  • Floor. I read that one way to isolate from lower frequencies is to build the floor on tennis balls. Sounds crazy, but also seems to make some sense. I figured that I could put down a frame of relatively thin wood (1/2" or thereabouts) with holes in it to locate the balls. Then sit a frame on top of the balls to hold the flooring itself. Between the rafters, I would then pack sound insulation material to isolate the higher frequencies. Is this a sensible approach?
  • Walls. These would be mounted on top of the floor and have a gap (1-2") from the room's existing walls. I'm thinking 2x4 with sound insulation between. Then channel mounted to the studs and two layers of 5/8" drywall mounted to this. Again, is this sensible?
  • Some sources suggest wooden studs while other swear by steel. Which would you guys suggest is preferable?
  • Is Green Glue worth investing in for between the two layers of drywall?
  • The final layer, inside the room, will be quilted "moving blankets". These will be black to help control light within the studio and should also dampen any reverberation or echo. Will I require further absorption panels?
  • How concerned should I be about opposite, parallel surfaces? I understand these should be avoided, but how far "off" do they need to be and how much need I worry?
  • I will probably want to mount some large-screen monitors on the walls within the studio. Ordinarily, the weight of these would require that the mounting hardware be affixed directly to the wall studs, however this will obviously "short" out the the isolation. Can anyone suggest a solution?
  • Similarly, I was hoping to have power outlets, network ports and the like recessed into the walls. Is this likely to cause me issues?
  • The ceiling. This will, naturally, sit on top of the walls (so will not touch the "real" ceiling). I am undecided on its construction, though. Any ideas/advice?

Any advice / suggestions greatly appreciated! Please be gentle, though, I'm very much new to all this!

Thank you,

Hi all,

I’ve (a pro actually, not me) built a studio room withinin my garage 3x2.5x2m approx.

I have insulation structure OSB3, 45kg insulation wool and light membrane and bare studs. I said I’d sound proof the inside myself for costs!

I’m thinking of using
 GTec DB Board 15mm

My question is does anyone think my idea of backing the DB Board with TecSound SY 50 sound membrane and using Green Glue for adhesive and extra proofing a good idea?!

My aim is to also separate the DB board using a isolation clips and funnels!

I’m hoping this will help sufficiently before I then treat the room with egg and bass foam corners etc?

Any thoughts or experience would be greatly appreciated!


Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Sound proofing condo near airport
« Last post by Randy S on June 20, 2018, 04:46:26 PM »
I see what your trying to attempt, this is the same issue we deal with in commercial store fronts.

Best to use 1 piece of acrylic and not try the mount to the aluminum frame..this will also give you a larger air gap and achieve a better reduction.

if you chose to go your route you will either have to screw into the aluminum or glue the frame to it..

Randy S.
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Sound proofing condo near airport
« Last post by jakew on June 20, 2018, 04:20:52 PM »
Thank you Randy for your reply.
I don't plan to leave blinds inside the gap. If anything I may uninstall the blinds and reinstall it further away but that is too complicated for now.
As for the double pane issue, since I have a vertical aluminum bar in the middle, I plan to use that bar to install separate vertical mounting frames on the left (for the left pane) and on the right (for the right pane.) That would leave the middle aluminum bar uncovered by either pane. But the glasses will all be covered with no air leak. Would you think that the middle bar could become a weak point? (aluminum is not great in blocking sound I guess?)

STC 37-40 sounds great. I do want to use a more precise sound meter in the future to compare results. But if I can further reduce the 55db jet sound down to 40-45 that would be great. The noise is mainly jet cutting through air, so higher frequency I guess.
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Sound proofing condo near airport
« Last post by Randy S on June 20, 2018, 03:55:51 PM »
Ok a few things.

1) we never recommend having blinds in the dead air space, this is where heat builds up and can deform your blinds. We have no liability if this happens.
2) the problem of split panels has been a huge challenge that we have not been able to solve without having to add a 2"x4" in the middle to accommodate the mounting frame and maintain the seal and mass behind the gap...other methods we have tried normally become a weak spot or leak and greatly effects the end results.
3) as for mass vs. gap , this one is not so easy. Normally I find in field results the gap is the greatest contributor until you get into really low frequencies and increasing both ends up being the only solution based on cost vs reduction.   

In the end you must be able to create a air tight system and mass on both sides of that air space.

Based on 1" gap you should be able to achieve around STC 37-40 with 3/8" acrylic.

Hope this helps and if you decide to attempt an out of the box method please share it with our readers on this forum and let us know the results.

Good Luck.

Randy S.
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Sound proofing condo near airport
« Last post by jakew on June 20, 2018, 06:42:34 AM »

I recently moved into a new condo near an airport. Condo faces east, and jets also go east on a 1000-2000 feet height. Noise is pretty annoying (when in door, going from 40db when quiet up to 55 db, on my phone app but that may not be very accurate. In the outside my phone measures ~75db so my current window does a ~20db reduction on my phone).

The condo is already installed with double-pane window. There are 3 room facing east, and each one has a big window. Attached picture is one bedroom for which I want to try the acrylic solutions (along with the supplies) and see what kind of difference it makes, before deciding on what to do with the other two rooms. This bedroom window is 58x49 inch.

I would not want to use a single heavy panel that blocks the entire window because I do want the window opening to be operable in times of need. So I was thinking to use two 3/8 panel, one covering the left part (including the opening, 58x22 overall) for easier removal, the other covering the right part (sort of permanent). As shown in the measurement picture, if I attach a panel on the middle aluminum slash, the best gap I get is around 1.3 inch. If the result is not satisfactory, I would consider attaching another whole panel of 1/8 thickness on top of that, because as you can see in the picture I do get another ~0.9 inch space to attach to a top piece of slash before it runs into the blinds. 1/8 thickness would be easier to remove.

Does this sounds too complicated or a bad plan? Is this possible without drilling holes in the frame? That is a last resort but I'm willing to try something else that does not leave holes if possible.

My situation is very similar to these two guys I think,4069.0.html,4176.0.html
if you get a chance to add 2 more layers make the first layer cement board like 1/2" hardie backer 3lbs sqft. or 5/8" perma base 3.6 lbs sqft., not durock 2.6lbs sqft..

Randy S.
Thanks a lot for the extra information. Looks like I would need at least another 2 sheets of drywall. If I suggest that to the wife she would probably kill me so I'll just have to live with what we have.  :)

Thanks again.
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