Recent Posts

Pages: « 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 »
We've just bought a house next to a noisy road.  We plan to put up a fence for privacy and so the dog (and future children) can safely play in the yard.  While we're doing that, I'd like to cut down on road noise too. 

Out of all of the fencing options available, composite LOOKS like it would do the best job of blocking sound.  It also looks best, and should last the longest with the least maintenance, which is nice.  It's also very pricey. 

Does anyone know if composite fencing is actually any good at blocking sound?  It's got more texture and mass than vinyl or wood, but I can't find any information anywhere making the claim. 

Here's basically what I'm talking about:

Thanks all.
My wife and I just bought a house that was built in 1901, at an intersection that generates lots of noise.  We've had about 100 dump trucks drive by today, and there's a fire station down the road that regularly sends fire trucks and ambulances whirring past our house.  In addition to that, the intersection is at the top of a steep hill, so most of the trucks are at wide open throttle to climb the hill or accelerate when the light changes. 

The existing windows are original 1901-era single hung, single pane, wood windows.  Many of them have permanent single hung aluminum frame (Ugly) exterior storm windows that look to be at least 30 years old.  The house is a fairly large Victorian with lots of large windows.  There are at least 30 windows on the house; most are 6 feet tall and 26-36 inches wide. 

The house is well built, with full dimensional framing, and stucco siding, so I'm hoping that the windows are the primary conduit of the noise.  We don't have any preservation restrictions, but I'd like to keep the original character of the home as much as practical. 

Now that you know my life story, here's the question:  Does anyone make double glazed and/or laminated window sashes that can go into our existing frames?  That seems like the easiest solution, and would allow us to keep our trim intact, and not reduce our visible window area the way replacement insert windows often do. 

If that's not an option, is it possible to buy sound-laminated glass, and somehow caulk it to the existing sash, to make it double glazed and reduce the noise? 

I've read up on the magnaseal solution, and am considering it.  I just want to know if there's a more permanent solution.  Thanks.
It will be an improvement for sure with 3/8" acrylic, I agree that the 1/2" air gap is not ideal but if the window is not huge you should see a viable reduction.

Randy S.

Just wondering if its worth the effort if I can only get 1/2" air gap? (with 3/8" acrylic).

How much noise reduction would I get over a 1/8" glass windows?
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Best deck doors for traffic noise
« Last post by MikeTw on September 08, 2017, 02:44:47 AM »
Ah no Milgard here.
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Best deck doors for traffic noise
« Last post by Randy S on September 07, 2017, 03:37:45 PM »
When choosing doors with glass you need to get as much mass and air gap as possible.

You need to look for STC and OITC ratings, the higher the number the better the reduction.

Milgard has a slider that performs quite well .

Randy S.
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Best deck doors for traffic noise
« Last post by MikeTw on September 07, 2017, 01:00:14 PM »

Are sliding doors with laminate or standard swing double doors with laminate insert better for sound attenuation?

Permabond is a type of cement board, you are trying to load as much mass as you can afford..the heavier the better.

Randy S.
Sorry for my ignorance. 1/2" what?
#2 lb mass loaded vinyl or a couple layers of 1/2" permabond

Randy S.
Pages: « 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 »