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Soundproofing your Condo, Townhouse or Bed & Breakfast / Re: CEILING SOUNDPROOFING
« Last post by Randy S on January 08, 2018, 04:21:38 PM »
You are right on track when you can not remove the existing drywall.

I would use Isomax clips over any clip.

Then I would apply 2 layers on the channel, first layer would be cement board 1/2" or greater followed by green glue then 5/8" type X drywall.
Quiet rock is not as heavy and cost way more.

Now the real issue with footfall is the existing subfloor, it is already a drum head and this is why we glue and screw cement board in between the joist in the cavity. when you can not do this you need to cut the perimeter of the existing drywall and fill the gap with acoustic caulking to break it from the walls. when you go forward all rigid layers are to have the perimeter gap and fill with caulking.

Feel free to reach out direct.

Randy S.
Soundproofing your Condo, Townhouse or Bed & Breakfast / Re: CEILING SOUNDPROOFING
« Last post by duleaux on January 08, 2018, 02:21:47 PM »
I have a similar situation but a different strategy.  I live in an apartment in which I am trying to reduce airborne and impact noise from above.  I think I've read every article on the internet about how best to accomplish this goal, and virtually all of the "best solutions" involve tearing down the existing drywall ceiling which for me is not an option.  So here is what I am considering:

1.  Fill the cavities between the existing ceiling rafters by blowing cellulose insulation above the existing drywall ceiling
2.  Apply isolation clips (Whisper, isoTRAX, etc.) to the existing drywall ceiling (please read on, I realize this is considered bad practice)
3.  Apply hat channel to the isolation clips
4.  Apply 1" thick rock wool bats between the hat channel rails.  These bats will fill the space between the existing drywall ceiling and the new layer of drywall
5.  Apply new layer of 5/8" drywall (or QuietRock) to the hat channel rails

I realize that affixing isolation clips to an existing drywall ceiling is considered bad practice because it can create a mass-air-mass resonance chamber between the two layers of drywall that actually can worsen the noise.  However, in step 4, I would sandwich a 1" layer of rock wool (or fiberglass) bats between the two layers of drywall to fill the void and absorb the sound waves traveling between the existing ceiling and new layer of drywall.  So the final structure would have 10" of cellulose insulation between the rafters, the existing drywall ceiling, 1" of rock wool, and a new layer of 5/8" drywall (or QuietRock) affixed to isolation clips.  In the end, I won't achieve full STC reduction, but I assume this would provide some additional isolation of both higher-frequency and lower frequency airborne and impact noise.  Please let me know if you think this strategy has any merit.
Other Soundproofing Questions / Re: Basement sound proofing game plan
« Last post by Randy S on December 11, 2017, 09:01:06 PM »
Impact noise is challenging..

5/8" with titebond 771-step in between the studs..

I would use clips and channel instead of just using resilient channel which would let have as much as 4' between clip locations. and yes you would have to screw the channel every joist using resilient channel.

Always use 2 layers of 5/8" drywall with green glue

Randy S.
Sound Control if you're Renting - Apartments, Condo, ETC / Re: Apartment neighbor's dog
« Last post by Randy S on December 11, 2017, 08:44:21 PM »
Dogs barking is actually pretty difficult to reduce as you can see..
This would require construction and a decoupled soundproof wall installed on isolation clips and channel.

Do you think they would let you do this?
if not, at the very least double the mass of the wall would give about 5db drop (30%-40%) reduction.

Randy S.
Sound Control if you're Renting - Apartments, Condo, ETC / Apartment neighbor's dog
« Last post by taz420nj on December 10, 2017, 06:59:47 PM »

I just moved into an apartment building, and I have one issue that is bugging me.  I have three party walls, and all seem to be well insulated except one - the one in the stairwell.  This is a 16 unit building, two floors, 8 units front and back.  I live upstairs. The entrances are all private, there is no shared stairwell - I go in my front door, and the stairs go up into my living room.  The next door upstairs neighbor has the same thing on the other side of the party wall.  My issue is that neighbor has a yappy little dog with neuroses, and they leave it alone while they are at work.  Well this thing does nothing but stand at the top of the stairs and bark incessantly at any car or person or insect or dust molecule that goes by, and it seems to go right through the wall to the point that I can hear it in my bedroom - all the way at the opposite end - with the door closed.  I don't hear any other noise through the wall, no TV, no conversation, nothing (some footfall when they go up/down, but that doesnt bother me).  Just the dog.

I rent, so my options are limited (although the manager is very nice and I could probably talk her into letting me do something permanent within reason on my dime), I'd like to know if there's any option that would at least muffle the sound. I don't want to complain because they are very nice, and since it only happens when they are out I dont think theres much they can do about it... Honestly I live 3 blocks from train tracks with 4 consecutive railroad crossings and the train horn doesn't bother me anywhere near as much as the barking.
Other Soundproofing Questions / soundproofing existing hardwood floor
« Last post by mg448 on December 10, 2017, 01:41:54 AM »
My wife and I just bought an old farmhouse. We're doing some renovations before we move in, and we discovered an issue we didn't think of before. The bedrooms are up stairs and the flooring up there is 1 1/8" spruce planks, tongue and groove joinery, were laid over 6"x8" beams to make the downstairs ceiling and the upstairs floor.  One layer of wood with gaps is all that separates our bedroom from the kitchen and dining room.  My wife is a light sleeper and we're worried that this is going to be an issue.  You can hear everything through the floor now.  There is no furniture in the house yet, but I expect even with curtains, a few rugs and furniture there will still be a lot of noise coming into the bedroom from down below.

    Seems to me that there are 2 solutions.  The more effective one would probably be to cover up the downstairs ceiling by sheet rocking between the beams and filling the void with 3" or so of rock wool or something similar.  I hate to cover up that ceiling though.  The only other option I can think of is to lay a floating floor above the floor in the bedroom with an insulating layer below it.  We're not trying to dampen foot step noise on the floor. We're trying to dampen sounds from coming up from down below.  Would a 1/4" cork layer under an engineered hardwood floating floor help with this? Or is there something that would work better than cork?

    Any advice would really be appreciated. Thanks
Other Soundproofing Questions / Basement sound proofing game plan
« Last post by Jason27 on December 07, 2017, 03:49:22 AM »
I'm finishing my basement and want to reduce the foot fall and nosies from above.  I can hear complete conversations easily above. 

Here's my plan:

5/8 drywall between 16" OC joist cavities with green glue sandwiched up to the subfloor above. 
Q: How much of a difference would a second layer of 5/8 drywall and green glue make?   The drywall is only about $175 more but the green glue is another $500 so if the difference is slight, I'll skip the second layer.

R19 faced insulation throughout

1/2" channel screwed to every other joist (Q: can I do every 2 joists?)

Single layer drywall screwed to channel.  Q: since it's a single layer, does it make much of a difference if it's 1/2" or 5/8"?

Once all this is done, I'll evaluate the effectiveness and if it's still bad, I'll probably spring for another layer of drywall with green glue although I'm hoping it won't be necessary.

Thanks for your input!!
our magnaseal system will work fine for the sheet. you might need a couple screws in the wall to support the weight.

remember the magnetic tape and L frame is for the seal not weight support.

Randy S.
Hi Randy, I got a sheet with 37' * 61'* 3/8 and it is around 36lbs, quite heavy. I am looking for strong magnetic tape for it, do you have suggestion?  Do you think it is too heavy without using screws?
Hello-- and thanks for your reply!
The current barrier is about 6 feet tall and 5 feet wide. Maybe 1" think of hard plastic. It does not go all the way to the ceiling, so there's empty space to fill that I suspect will make a difference. The ceiling is about 10 feet tall. The divider is essentially right next to the source, which is a concrete pit with vents inside, approx. 8-10 feet below the balcony floor. I am unable to measure exactly how deep it goes and what the exact location of the vents are, since it is blocked off and we are not permitted down there.
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