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Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Blinds cords through magnetseal?
« Last post by Randy S on October 12, 2017, 06:22:52 PM »
Putting a hole in the acrylic would greatly negate the value of noise reduction.

We absolutely do not recommend any blinds or window covering in the air gap between the window and the acrylic.
The heat build up will warp the blinds.

Randy S.
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Blinds cords through magnetseal?
« Last post by tcrimsonk on October 12, 2017, 03:31:46 AM »
After lots of reading, I'm pretty well sold on doing magnetseals on my bedroom windows.  (And the rest of the house if those work out.)  I'm also thinking of doing blackout blinds in the bedroom, but would like to be able to open and close them. 

The best blackout solution includes C channels on the sides that the blinds slide inside of.  Here's an example:

Ideally, I'd just use steel C channels, and then the magnetseal can stick right to them.  Otherwise I'd need to add C channels for the blinds, and L brackets for the panels. 

This gets me to my question.  I'd like to be able to open the blinds without taking down the acrylic.  Has anybody figured out a way to pass the chain/cord for raising and lowering blinds through the magnetseal panel?  That would let me maximize my air gap, only use one channel/bracket for both problems, and still be able to open the blinds. 

I've also considered motorized blinds, but those would add a few hundred dollars to the project.


P.S. The verification steps really are a pain.  This keeps rejecting me.  Is the image verification case sensitive?  If the answer is a number, am I supposed to put the digits, or write out the  number?  Is the question/answer case sensitive? 
Soundproofing your Condo, Townhouse or Bed & Breakfast / CEILING SOUNDPROOFING
« Last post by Nufc23 on October 11, 2017, 10:10:35 PM »
Ok experts here’s my situation

The condo I own has a lot of noise transfer to the condo above.
My plan is to:

Rip down existing drywall
Install Roxul Safe n Sound
Install side mounted isolation clips like these
Install regular hat channel
Install one layer of quiet rock

My question(s) is/are:
1) Is this the best way to achieve maximum quieting of my neighbor?
2) is regular channel (hat) ok being I’m using the whisper clips?
3) can I use regular drywall wall or should it be quiet Rock?
4) If I use regular drywall is double layer with green glue between them the same as one layer of quiet rock?

Any other insight would be appreciated

Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Success! DIY secondary glazing story
« Last post by Randy S on October 09, 2017, 10:46:03 PM »
Thank you for posting all this great feedback!!!
we at Super Soundproofing Co appreciate this type of feedback for other readers who have had bad soundproofing experiences to find out it can be done with cost effective solutions!.

Mass / Gap / Mass wins every time!

Thank you and Best Regards,

Randy S.
same principle as a window plug.

use a nice heavy wood as a backer for rigidity and make sure it seals air tight like a cork in a bottle.

Randy S.
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Success! DIY secondary glazing story
« Last post by kevinr on October 09, 2017, 02:07:52 AM »

This morning I had double pane glazing installed. It comprised of a 6.3mm SoundStop acoustic glass - a specially designed laminate with soft plastic interlayer - a 10mm gap, and a 4mm pane.

The original dB measurement with 4-5mm single pane was:

- With the window closed, no secondary glazing: 42 - 55 dB (avg and peak)
- With the window closed and my secondary glazing: 32 - 45 dB (avg and peak)

The new measurement is:

- With the new double pane window closed and my secondary glazing: 29 - 37.5 dB (avg and peak).

So a difference of 3dB less on average, and a peak of 7.5dB less, though I think there are fewer trucks coming through at this time of measurement which skews the top end result.

The result is much as I expected and read about. I thought the SoundStop might have made more of an improvement, but the biggest difference is the secondary glazing and an air gap.
I'm living in a basement apartment, but for some reason the original designer left about a foot airgap between the wall and the stairs up to the second level, so I can hear everything that happens in the house as if it's in my bedroom.

Here are some pictures:

Solidworks mockup:

I'm thinking of making something with a wood veneer and some rigid foam insulation to help dampen the noise. Is there a more obvious solution I'm not thinking of?


These sound like T-bar ceiling tiles...

Are you handy? if so maybe a DIY 4"-6" thick mineral wool or cotton fiber panels.
if you make your own you can add a septum of mass loaded vinyl which would give e bit more help in the low frequencies since you do not have much mass on the walls.

Randy S.
Randy, this is such helpful information. Thank you so much.

The tiles that the company was intending to install are listed as:
2’x2’x 1.5” white beveled edge class A fire rated Melamine Foam Tiles

So that's 1.5" thickness.

Do you carry thicker products that you feel would give me more assistance with soundproofing than these melamine tiles, as you described?


Without decoupling your chances of reducing low frequencies becomes minimal, which would require opening the walls or take a risk on a triple leaf system (which I personally do not like to do)

As for the absorption aspect, yes if you address corners and cover the majority of the walls you would reduce some of the sound pressure levels and therefore reducing some of the transmission..

The real question would be how thick would you need to go to see cost vs reduction..

See when doing room acoustics you do not need to get so thick because you are essentially tuning the room, but if you are trying to get "soundproofing" out of acoustic conditioning this changes the game a bit and requires thicker material and far more surface area coverage...

Randy S.

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