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Hello everyone, and Merry Christmas Eve.

In the past I have been able to mitigate sound very well with two layers of dry wall. It's cheap, easy to work with, and if more is needed you just add to what you already have. However, now I am renting, and my renter's lease reads "Resident shall do no remodeling and shall make no alterations of any kind to the Premises of any kind without the written consent of Owner". I like how they capitalized owner and premises.... makes it more official I suppose :)

The sound I am having trouble with is him tromping around up there now and then, and also what sounds like someone dropping a plastic cup or something on the floor. That one is unsettling, as it is always unexpected when it occurs. Thankfully I have no booming stereo up there.

I'm not a lawyer, but to me the words premises and remodeling mean I cannot make any changes to "the structure" of the apt. No painting, no carpeting, and of course, no dry wall screwed to the ceiling. So I was thinking of building 2 sound boxes around my computer desk and bed that do not attach to the walls or ceiling in any way. Frame them up w/ 2x4's, screw 2 layers of dry wall to that, and the end of noise. Does this sound like it would work? I could hinge the sides of the boxes like doors to allow walking in and out, then shut them for when I am in them. There is a wall a/c near the desk, and I was going to buy a small one for the bed area, then vent things at the bottom with slots. It sounds sorta odd I suppose, but the cost would be small and the boxes would be easy to build. 
Use our 1/4" mass loaded vinyl and a layer of 1/2" cement board (hardie backer) not duroc.
seal this thing like a fish tank with acoustic caulking.
insulated the cavities.
and most important , make sure the door weights the same as the walls.
7-8 lbs sqft.

Randy S.
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Soundproofing large windows against 70dB?
« Last post by Randy S on December 17, 2018, 04:06:24 PM »
Yes it would especially for lower frequencies.
The only thing that would alter my statement would be cost vs reduction.
The gains for another inch would be estimated at 6 STC additional points so as long as the cost of moving the existing window out further was not double the cost go for it.

Randy S.
Soundproofing Generators, Pool pumps, Engine and Dyno rooms / Soundproof Generator Shed
« Last post by slyly on December 16, 2018, 02:14:17 AM »
I am going to be adding a small "generator room" to a detached outdoor shed.  This addition will be built from wood and match the design of the shed and house.  What is the most cost-effective way to insulate this new addition to reduce the sound as much as possible?

Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Soundproofing large windows against 70dB?
« Last post by MicahZoltu on December 15, 2018, 04:24:12 AM »
The way the current windows are installed, I can probably get ~3" of space between the current window and the second window.  Do you think that will that be enough to give me the necessary sound reduction, particularly of low-frequency noise?  I could probably get another 1" if I un-mount the windows and push them out a bit (at the moment there is a lip outside the window as well as inside due to mounting the windows in the middle-ish of the frame).  If I could get 4", do you think that will be effective at stopping low-frequency noise?
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Soundproofing large windows against 70dB?
« Last post by Randy S on December 14, 2018, 04:59:00 PM »
install a second window with the greatest air gap you can acquire, since your walls are concrete you should be able to achieve 2-3" of air space between the existing window and a new window.

Randy S.
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Soundproofing large windows against 70dB?
« Last post by MicahZoltu on December 14, 2018, 12:10:34 PM »
As many people here, I have a noisy neighbor problem.  In this case, they are of the night-club/karaoke variety to the tune of 70dB - 80dB as measured outside my window.  Unfortunately, the country I live in does not have noise regulations that will help me, so I need a "help myself" solution.  The biggest problem is the base/drums, the current windows block out everything else well enough so I need something to help with the low frequency noises.

A couple problems I have run into while researching:

1. My windows are quite large, ~2.5m x 1.6m (~8' x 5').
2. I do need to be able to _open_ the windows from time to time to air out the unit.  I don't need to be able to see out the windows while they are closed though, and in fact I currently have black-out blinds installed that are closed 98% of the time to block out light.

I'm curious if anyone has any suggestions for a solution that can deal with that level of noise?  It seems like most people are trying to block out street traffic noise and whatnot, rather than an open-air night club within line-of-sight of the room.  The building is a high-rise with nice thick concrete walls, and I'm reasonably confident that the problem is solely the windows, and not the walls.  Also, due to my location whatever solution I come up with will likely need to be implemented by me (with the help of a contractor potentially) since I have been unable to find professional sound proofing services in the area.  I don't mind putting in the effort, but any solution that requires custom parts built in a factory designed for this type of thing is probably non-starter.
In order to get a viable reduction from the type of noise your dealing with it will take more then just blown in cellulose.
You will need to decouple and double or triple mass/ density on top of insulating the cavity.

Give me a call direct so we can discuss particulars and principles on what your trying to accomplish.

Best Regards,

Randy S.

We just purchased a three story townhouse that has two shared neighbors (one on each side). We were surprised and disappointed to find that we can hear our neighbors music, dogs, tv and him being noisy at 3-5am every night. The sounds we hear are faint but enough that sleep is difficult when the neighbor is awake and watching tv. His barking dog we can hear in all rooms of our townhouse even when the dog is in his kennel in their kitchen. At 3-6am we hear his movies in our master bedroom, not loud but the bumps of bass and music keep us up or wake us up. We’ve talked to him, we believe he’s trying to be quiet, but given his stark difference in lifestyle to our own means we’re always awake when he’s asleep and we’re always sleeping (or wanting to) when he’s awake.

I was thinking I would do another layer of drywall with green glue but have recently started to look at insulation as a first step instead. We had an insulation company estimate blown in dense packed cellulose or roxul. He seemed to think that it would do wonders but it’s expensive and if I’m going to spend the money I want some reasonable degree of comfort that I’m not wasting my money.

If the insulation seems like a decent first step we may go for it, but I was hoping for another opinion first from someone that really knows. It’s expensive but least amount of damage/rework is needed since they will just cut holes into each cavity between studs. If another layer of drywall is needed it’ll be pretty invasive/lots of work as all walls have crown molding and large baseboards that would need to come off.

Id say the worst noise we get is the tv at 3-6am, followed by barking dogs during the day then the thumping sounds of dogs playing/doors slamming/ people walking.

Our side of the party wall is 5/8 drywall on metal studs 24” o.c. 

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
I am trying to put vinyl luxury tiles in the living room.

  would it be ok to put 1 lb mass loaded vinyl under subfloor and then luxury vinyl tile?

is there any other way?
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