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21
In order to get "big" reductions you need a lot of mass, so #2lb will work better then #1lb.

and you might actually need more mass depending on how much reduction you want.

Randy S.
22
 
 I am trying to use mass loaded vinyl on the second floor condo to block airborne sound.


Will the 2 lb MLV make a big difference? or should I go with the 1 lb? what do you think?

  I can hear some music when it is very load, people speaking when they shout, some tv noise. 
23
Pull your carpet and padding up along with tack strips.
lay down #2 MLV wall to wall tape seams and seal to perimeter with acoustic caulking.
reinstall tack strips , padding and carpet.

As for salvaging the carpet and pad I would consult a carpet company for those answers.

Randy S.
760-752-3030
24
  I live in a second floor condo built in 1994.  It has rockwool insulation.

   My problem is I can hear the neighbor below me  when they talk and turn on the television. It is not very loud but I can still hear them.


  Right now, I have a carpet pad and new carpet undernealth (  a little over 1 year old)

        I am thinking of  adding mass loaded vinyl ( 1/4" , 2 pound with closed cell).  how do I go about this?


   1. should I  pull the carpet apart without damaging it and add Mass loaded vinyl in between the existing pad? if so, do I glue it the MLV down or staple it?


 2. should I pull the carpet apart without damaging it and remove the old pad completely and add mass loaded vinyl undernealth the subfloor ?

                  If I choose 2. I am thinking of replacing the carpet pad?

subfloor>  MAss load vinyl> carpet pad #8  >  existing carpet

also, do I need to glue the mass loaded vinyl to the subfloor? should I just staple it down?
Is it possible to remove carpet without damaging it?

what is your recommendation here? any other suggestions?

   
25
ok you have been doing a lot of good research, however there are a few things missing.

I need more information as to when it was built and where you are located.

and this ceiling project should only cost you about 3k max in material, if your willing to do the work yourself.

Give me  a call direct to discuss particulars and principles.

I look forward to hearing from you.

Randy S.
760-752-3030
26
I bought a condo. The broker apparently showed it only when the upstairs neighbors weren’t home. The condos excessive ceiling lighting is proving to be a nightmare. I hear muffled conversations if directly overhead and can pinpoint where the various people are at all times given footfalls.
I’m considering soundproofing. I’ve read up and know there are two types of sound. Simplistically, footfalls and airborne.
All the forums say spray foam doesn’t really work. The solution seems to be:
1.   Cut off the existing ceiling
2.   Seal any holes with something like Green Glue Acoustic Sealant
3.   Insert rockwool safe and sound (or similar) in the joists – this should handle the airborne noise
4.   Use some kind of resilient channel system (metal rods) to run perpendicular to the joists. Goal being to create separation from the joists and my ceiling drywall to stop footfall driven soundwaves from traveling through
5.   Put up new drywall potentially quietrock
I talked to a local soundproofer and they said it was probably a $40k job. I really had that spare $40k laying in the corner slated for something else! So…I watched some youtube videos. Steps 1, 2, 3, and 4 seems fairly DIY. I’m no contractor, but this seems doable. I imagine I could hire a laborer to hang drywall for well shy of 40k.
Even if it was DIY this isn’t cheap. Rockwool seems to be about $50ish for a 5 square foot panel. So for a 225 sq ft room, I’m going to spend $2250 in rockwool alone. Quietrock seems to be about $350 for this space while regular drywall is about $50. Green glue is $100ish for a case online. Lowes seems to have a resilient channel system that is pretty affordable ($50 for the room). I’ve also seen the clip systems. I’m not having a really easy time getting pricing online but let’s say its $500 to be conservative with a lot of clips.
So, without labor help to hang drywall, I’m talking around $3k for supplies for a room. Probably a few hundred more for saws, masks, etc for the demolition.
Sheesh, wish there was an easier solution. Regardless, some questions:
•   Anything missing from my calculations?
•   Is there an effective and more affordable rockwool alternative?
•   Does anyone have proof of how effective this actually is? Would be tragic to spend the money and do all this and have it not really work. I know proper install is a big part of success but that seems to come from making sure you screw drywall into the resilient channel not the joists.
•   How do I deal with vents? Does anyone sell vent extenders?
•   How about lights and fans?
•   Will vents convey the sound and defeat the purpose?
•   Rockwool can’t cover the little Xs between the joists, does that matter?
•   If I do this to say a bedroom but don’t do the attached bathroom, will the footfall noise from the bathroom just transfer to the bedroom? I’m hoping the resilient channel will stop the vibration when it enters the soundproofed room but don’t know. Guessing rockwool will kill the airborne.
Thank you
27
The system will work fine for your window box. install recessed and use a bit of caulking to make sure the L-frame is sealed to the wall.

The frame system is for the seal only the weight of the panel is resting on the bottom of the sill.

with 3/8" acrylic and the air gap you achieve good reduction.

Best Regards,

Randy S.
28
Hi

I am just wondering whether I need to have a wood trim (sill) to get the benefit of Magnaseal solution. Our windows have a drywall recess of 5.5 inches so I can have 4" gap between the window glass and the acrylic sheet.  Can I just screw the L frame trim to the drywall and attach the acrylic sheet with the magnetic tape?  Do I need to remove drywall and install wood sill to get the maximum benefit?

Attached is my window that I am planning to soundproof..

Thank you in advance.
29
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Split panes and 2'' air gap
« Last post by Randy S on October 30, 2018, 03:49:25 PM »
As long as the cranks do not interfere with the recessed installation this should work just fine as one large insert.
As for reduction goes with a 2" air gap and 3/8" acrylic you should see 50% or greater reduction.

Randy S.

30
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Split panes and 2'' air gap
« Last post by neycer on October 28, 2018, 05:46:34 PM »
Hi,

I recently moved into a new house. It is only a few feet away from a road, as you can see in the picture I attached. The road is not super busy, but cars can still drive around 40mph, so the noise is very noticeable in the room.
I've read many posts on this forum and want to try this solution.

My window is a 4 feet (height) by 6 feet (width). It's an Andersen casement double-pane window. It has 3 panels: two on the side are 16 inches width, and one in the middle is 24 inches. (See attached picture 1)
My current plan is to remove the insect screens and install the 3/8" acrylic window. It should give me about 2'' air gap (See attached picture 2 for frame for insect screens).

First of all, does this sound like a reasonable plan? How much noise reduction (traffic noise) would I gain from this?
Also how easy is it to install the mounting the magnetseal: http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/magnetseal_windows.htm onto the insect screen frames?
It seems that I'll have to do "Recessed" installation?

Thanks!
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