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Depending on how deep the window seal is would dictate if you can use one of our black out window plugs shown on link below.

Feel free to contact me direct.

Randy S.
Sound Control if you're Renting - Apartments, Condo, ETC / Large City Windows
« Last post by Leoul on May 01, 2018, 08:29:32 AM »
Hello there. Great site you have here, and I'd love the help of your expertise.

I'm in a brand new apartment on the second floor, right next to a busy street. The construction of the unit is actually quite good; it has concrete walls and triple pane windows, but it's not enough for the bedrooms. As far as I can tell the sound is primarily getting through the windows. We also want to block any outside light coming into these windows, so I'm not constrained to see-through solutions.

The window is 6.5' x 6.5'. Everything I've read about soundproofing suggests adding multiple layers of mass of different materials to help filter various frequencies. My current idea is to get a large sheet of plywood, attach a layer of mass loaded vinyl, and a layer of dense foam. I'm looking for advice if there is possibly a better solution or perhaps how to mount this monstrosity. Even just a single layer of MLV at this size sounds like it will be around 40 lbs per window which seems like it would be hard to secure in place. Also not sure how to prevent the edges from leaking sound- most recommendations I've seen is to use caulk or something similar, but I'm hesitant to do so as it will be difficult to restore when I move out.

These are my constraints: I'm allowed to put holes in the wall. Whatever I hang in the window has to be a solid neutral color from the outside. I need to be able to restore the unit back to the relative condition from when I moved in. The unit is brand new, so they will probably be fairly nitpicky.

Thanks for your time. Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated.
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Advice for larger window cavities
« Last post by Randy S on April 20, 2018, 04:22:52 PM »
That will work fine, recess the frame back enough so that the acrylic will rest on the sill.

shown here second diagram

Randy S.
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Advice for larger window cavities
« Last post by BradA on April 20, 2018, 09:16:56 AM »
Thanks for your reply Randy, unfortunately I don't have a ledge to work with.

That image shows the bottom right corner of my window sill, all of them in the house are like this.  So I guess I either need build a shelf or recess the sheet which would lose some of that valuable air pocket space.  Any suggestions in your opinion on the best way to go about it?
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Advice for larger window cavities
« Last post by Randy S on April 19, 2018, 03:54:58 PM »
The weight of the acrylic must rest on a sill or lip of the window box. The magnetic tape is to create the seal only (12lb pull).
Dogs barking and traffic noise I always recommend 3/8" and with your 4" air gap you will receive a very noticeable reduction.

Randy S.
Soundproofing at the source will always deliver the best reduction.

Flooring systems are normally reviewed in detail prior to system recommendations. The systems require enough space to raise the new floated floor anywhere from 1 1/8" to 2.5" lift before final flooring.
you can see some of the decouplers here on this page.

It would best just to reach me direct when you have some time to discuss the particulars that way the right system can be recommended.

Randy S.
Randy -

Thank you very much for your reply. I am quite familiar with your recommendations on how to decouple a ceiling as I have read quite a few of your posts. However, I have not found anything regarding your recommendation (process & products) for decoupling the floor. Would you mind either pointing me to a post or giving me a quick rundown on how to achieve floor decoupling.

Also, which do you think would be more effective in reducing impact noise - floor decouple or ceiling - if you HAD to choose.

Thank you sir!!
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Advice for larger window cavities
« Last post by BradA on April 19, 2018, 03:08:39 AM »
I am looking into putting up some secondary glazing to help dull out neighbours and their dogs.  The windows I am looking at doing are around 2.2M x 1.2M (7.2ft x 4ft).  Now I see the ideal thickness of acrylic is 3/8 of an inch, using this thickness will be over 30KG (66lb) per sheet, will the magnet around all the edges be able to hold this weight or will I need to build a shelf to support it?

Also if it's only for neighbour/dogs will I get away with a thinner sheet or should I just go straight to 3/8"?  (the air gap will be roughly 105mm (4"))

In order to reduce impact noise you have to decouple somewhere.. either the ceiling below or the floor the end as you can see decoupling is the only principle that provides the best perceived reduction of impact.

also remember if you decouple from the ceiling you could have some slight impact coming from the walls after the project is complete..normally in the field I find this to be minimum.

Randy S.
Hello -

This community is awesome. I have read numerous stories and learned a lot, my only regret is not finding this website sooner :-o

My story/request:

I have a duplex, which is split level and is of brick construction (exterior walls) and solid wooden joists. I live in the bottom portion and rent out the top. The entire upstairs is carpeted/padded except for the kitchen. The kitchen happens to be above my bedroom. In the past this was not a problem, but my new tenants work late (dont come home til 10-11) and then they are stomping around in the kitchen. I have talked to them about being quite and honestly I am not even sure if its them at this point or just the poor construction. Once I realized this problem I scrambled to fix it in several attempts.

Attempt 1: I cut holes at every joist and blew in insulation. This worked good for the airbone noises. I could not really hear anyone talking or any noise like that. However, I could still hear them walking around and dropping things.

Attempt 2: I found out about Green Glue and read that adding mass to the ceiling would lessen the vibrations. So, I added two layers of 5/8 drywall to the ceiling with green glue sandwiched in between. This helped a bit, but not a dramatic improvement. Airborne noises are virtually non existent, but the impact noises were still easily heard.

Attempt 3: I asked the tenants to let me know when they were going on vacation and I would do some improvements upstairs. The kitchen floor was porceline tile, which was on cement board that was screwed directly to the wooden subfloor - no underlayment. So what I did while there were gone was I installed a floating lament floor on top of the tile floor. I used a premium wool underlayment underneath the floating floor, which claimed high IIC numbers. This seemed to work well. It definitely dampened the impact noise but I can still hear it. Its not terrible, but I have become fixated on figure this out once and for all.

So that takes me to today. I am not sure where I should attack this problem from now. Should I installed a vinyl floor on top of the floating with a better underlayment? Should I throw in the towel on my bedroom ceiling and do a decoupled ceiling? Any suggestions on what would be the best approach?

Thanks for listening!

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