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1
Hello-- and thanks for your reply!
The current barrier is about 6 feet tall and 5 feet wide. Maybe 1" think of hard plastic. It does not go all the way to the ceiling, so there's empty space to fill that I suspect will make a difference. The ceiling is about 10 feet tall. The divider is essentially right next to the source, which is a concrete pit with vents inside, approx. 8-10 feet below the balcony floor. I am unable to measure exactly how deep it goes and what the exact location of the vents are, since it is blocked off and we are not permitted down there.
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First rule in soundproofing is to put something between you and the source, the value of reduction would be dictated by how much mass the partition is and the diffracted path around said barrier.

The closer the barrier and the larger the barrier covers would deliver the best value of noise reduction.

So how big it the divider?

how close is the divider to the source?

Please advise,

Randy S.
3
Hi there,
I own a first floor apartment that is next to one of my building's two boiler room exhaust fans. The fans are located in the basement, next to my balcony, but a floor down (the vents are in a below ground concrete "room" with no roof, I guess kind of like a concrete well. Awesome, right?) Typically, the fans would turn on and off about once an hour for a few minutes. No big deal.

But lately, the fans are running all the time, for days on end, causing the balcony divider (plastic, with small gaps, and doesn't go all the way to the "ceiling") to vibrate-- which sends all the noise and vibrations into our apartment.

The only thing separating us from the noise is this sad little divider, so I was thinking that building a custom divider over the current one (the building allows this, as long as it is wood covered, or painted white or brown). We plan to build one anyway because the building-supplied divider is ugly, so while we're at it, is there a way to incorporate  noise and vibration reduction, too? I'm not expecting it to go away entirely, but to help take the edge off a bit.
4
 If no sill a few pane support screws should be added to prevent the pane from sliding down.

Randy S.
5
HI Randy, to afford the weight of  the 3/8 acrylic sheet (My window is 47*67).  What width of the Magnetic Tape  should I use.  I think the sheet may be heavy. Do you have any experience to keep it safe?  Thanks a lot. 
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3/8" standard acrylic will work fine.

Randy S.
7
Thanks Randy. I am going to try the solution.  I measured my exiting window and the wall and I found I can get about 9cm gap between the second glazing and window.

1. May I know what kind of acrylic sheets do I need to reduce the low frequency noise?
2. Do I need special acrylic sheets? Do you have any recommendation?

Thanks a lot
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Hi,  I had a house that is 500 feet far from a busy highway. Out of the house,  we can always hear noise.  With current two panel window, the inside seems to be quite (Around 30-35db), but if listening carefully, can still hear small noise and it is quite annoying, the noise gets louder in the morning ( I guess because of the busy traffic).  By reading the post in this forum, I think the noise may be low frequency noise. 

I am not sure if sound proofing the window can help?  and how to identify it is window or wall problem? if I touch my ear to the wall, I can hear some sound ( like wind), window is louder.

If I want to sound proof the window, what is the better option?  Thank you very much.
 
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Soundproofing your Condo, Townhouse or Bed & Breakfast / Re: CEILING SOUNDPROOFING
« Last post by Randy S on October 17, 2017, 04:04:18 PM »
Ed,

If your using clips and channel why do you need the cold roll?
We use these clips and 20 gauge 7/8" hat channel
http://www.soundproofing.org/sales/ssp.htm

Double layer of regular 5/8" drywall with green glue is going to work better then quiet rock 510 or ez snap.

Randy S.
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