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71
Other Soundproofing Questions / Re: Basement ceiling soundproofing
« Last post by martin1b on August 28, 2017, 06:48:14 PM »
Thanks for the reply Randy. I'm on a budget and am trying to stop sound transmission between levels, such as talking. I can clearly hear conversations in the floor above me. Impact noise would be a bonus but not required.

To do this, would be GG/DD be the best way? RC and 1 sheet is doable and probably less expensive than GG/DD but does that only stop impact noise?  Also, how much insulation should I add AND can I use fiberglass insulation?

Bill
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Other Soundproofing Questions / Re: Basement ceiling soundproofing
« Last post by Randy S on August 28, 2017, 05:21:21 PM »
you most definitely need to insulate, do not leave the cavity hollow.

if you do not use channel then you want to go with 2 layers of 5/8" type X drywall with green glue.
you have to get the mass up in order to reduce air borne noise.

with out channel you do not get impact or low frequency reduction.

Randy S.
760-752-3030
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Other Soundproofing Questions / Re: Basement ceiling soundproofing
« Last post by martin1b on August 27, 2017, 10:31:22 PM »
OR do I forget Roxul or insulation and go with green glue and double drywall (1/2). Price would be comparable to Roxul.
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Other Soundproofing Questions / Re: Basement ceiling soundproofing
« Last post by martin1b on August 27, 2017, 08:41:27 PM »
Should I use Roxul or fiberglass insulation to drown out sound between levels?
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Other Soundproofing Questions / Basement ceiling soundproofing
« Last post by martin1b on August 26, 2017, 10:57:05 PM »
I'm in the process of finishing my basement and want to prevent sound from going between the basement and upstairs. My primary concern is hearing talking, music or TV upstairs when played downstairs or kids screaming.

The basement is a pretty open design and am wondering if that will hamper any sound deading work I do. Also, I'm concerned about sound from the stairs passing down.

My joists are 20.5 apart and the cavity is 18" deep. I was considering r30 insulation, or Roxul S&S. Also was considering Type X drywall on the ceiling. Im not interested in using resilient channel as my ceiling is low already and I'm a tall guy. Every inch of ceiling height counts for me.

Any thoughts on my approach?
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Hi

How good is 2lb spray foam vs fibreglass vs roxul for sound insulation?

Looking more to deaden low freq vibrations...


Thanks
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Goatdan,

This is very achievable by doing some out of the box applications. I need a lot of information in order to put this together for you.
Just rattling off suggestions would most likely create mistakes so it would be best to contact me direct so I can get specific details on the access points in the ceiling and discuss particulars of the project.

Reach me direct

Randy S.
760-752-3030
randy@soundproofing.org
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Hey everyone, sorry for the long first post, I have been wrestling with what seems like a pretty unique project, and I would love some input!

I have what I feel is a rather unique problem, and I'd love to get some more people to weigh in as I've never worked on something like this before.  In short, I own a duplex. We have tenants on the first floor, and then we live upstairs. Switching that is not an option.

The basement is wonderful and large, and I have a collection of arcade video and pinball machines that I would like to use down there, but not make it sound super loud in the living space above me. The quieter, the better so I could play at night for instance without feeling like I'm keeping anyone up.

The house is quite old. One of the challenges that I have is I seem to relatively regularly need to pop in the basement ceiling to adjust something, so I will need to have some sort of access to the space beyond parts of the ceiling. I can identify these parts if need be and do something different elsewhere.

The video games I can turn down, but the pinball machines have the relatively loud solenoid noises I can't turn down. This is where this seems to be a unique challenge, because the majority of the sounds are higher in the range. So far, I have...

Put down carpet tiles. Was planning to do this regardless of noise impact.

Put up Roxul Safe and Sound in the rafters. Researched this, and it seems regular fiberglass is equal to it in lower range, but Roxul seems better in the upper range which is what I need

I have been thinking my next step is to get mass loaded vinyl and hang it from the joists using drywall screws and rubber washers to let it hang a bit below the joists, while using acoustic sealer to glue together the edges. If I need to pop a section open to access some random space, I could unscrew that section and then replace it and the caulk to hold it there.

Will this get much of any real result? I don't mind spending extra to do a slightly better job, as I intend to live here for many, many years, but if this idea won't do much, I would rather rethink it. Before we moved in, the ceiling had a small wood layer, and that did a surprisingly great job reducing noise. I had to pull it down to access both a water pipe and the electric system however. I could also put wood back up, but I figure that won't do much for reducing sound.

Since drywall would be really difficult, is this the best method I can use for what I have? Is there a better solution that could address both the upper sounds I am generating and the ability to access what is above it reasonably? Would a layer of mlv followed by a wood ceiling be the best, or is the wood overkill?

Absolutely any help would be ridiculously appreciated.
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ok !! Noggin (wall frame blocking and/ or fire blocking) yes you should put at least a row in.

that should work for the bottom of the wall, recess it back a bit from the face of the wall and caulk the face.

randy S.
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Thanks Randy much appreciated.

The noggin is the horizontal brace for the studwork, wasn't sure if the res bar would give the frame enough strength on its own.

Haven't heard of vibration pads thinking I could use isolation strip cut to the right size and layered up haven't seen that product for sale here.

Thanks again

Rob
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