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Other Soundproofing Questions / soundproofing existing hardwood floor
« Last post by mg448 on December 10, 2017, 01:41:54 AM »
My wife and I just bought an old farmhouse. We're doing some renovations before we move in, and we discovered an issue we didn't think of before. The bedrooms are up stairs and the flooring up there is 1 1/8" spruce planks, tongue and groove joinery, were laid over 6"x8" beams to make the downstairs ceiling and the upstairs floor.  One layer of wood with gaps is all that separates our bedroom from the kitchen and dining room.  My wife is a light sleeper and we're worried that this is going to be an issue.  You can hear everything through the floor now.  There is no furniture in the house yet, but I expect even with curtains, a few rugs and furniture there will still be a lot of noise coming into the bedroom from down below.

    Seems to me that there are 2 solutions.  The more effective one would probably be to cover up the downstairs ceiling by sheet rocking between the beams and filling the void with 3" or so of rock wool or something similar.  I hate to cover up that ceiling though.  The only other option I can think of is to lay a floating floor above the floor in the bedroom with an insulating layer below it.  We're not trying to dampen foot step noise on the floor. We're trying to dampen sounds from coming up from down below.  Would a 1/4" cork layer under an engineered hardwood floating floor help with this? Or is there something that would work better than cork?

    Any advice would really be appreciated. Thanks
Other Soundproofing Questions / Basement sound proofing game plan
« Last post by Jason27 on December 07, 2017, 03:49:22 AM »
I'm finishing my basement and want to reduce the foot fall and nosies from above.  I can hear complete conversations easily above. 

Here's my plan:

5/8 drywall between 16" OC joist cavities with green glue sandwiched up to the subfloor above. 
Q: How much of a difference would a second layer of 5/8 drywall and green glue make?   The drywall is only about $175 more but the green glue is another $500 so if the difference is slight, I'll skip the second layer.

R19 faced insulation throughout

1/2" channel screwed to every other joist (Q: can I do every 2 joists?)

Single layer drywall screwed to channel.  Q: since it's a single layer, does it make much of a difference if it's 1/2" or 5/8"?

Once all this is done, I'll evaluate the effectiveness and if it's still bad, I'll probably spring for another layer of drywall with green glue although I'm hoping it won't be necessary.

Thanks for your input!!
our magnaseal system will work fine for the sheet. you might need a couple screws in the wall to support the weight.

remember the magnetic tape and L frame is for the seal not weight support.

Randy S.
Hi Randy, I got a sheet with 37' * 61'* 3/8 and it is around 36lbs, quite heavy. I am looking for strong magnetic tape for it, do you have suggestion?  Do you think it is too heavy without using screws?
Hello-- and thanks for your reply!
The current barrier is about 6 feet tall and 5 feet wide. Maybe 1" think of hard plastic. It does not go all the way to the ceiling, so there's empty space to fill that I suspect will make a difference. The ceiling is about 10 feet tall. The divider is essentially right next to the source, which is a concrete pit with vents inside, approx. 8-10 feet below the balcony floor. I am unable to measure exactly how deep it goes and what the exact location of the vents are, since it is blocked off and we are not permitted down there.
First rule in soundproofing is to put something between you and the source, the value of reduction would be dictated by how much mass the partition is and the diffracted path around said barrier.

The closer the barrier and the larger the barrier covers would deliver the best value of noise reduction.

So how big it the divider?

how close is the divider to the source?

Please advise,

Randy S.
Hi there,
I own a first floor apartment that is next to one of my building's two boiler room exhaust fans. The fans are located in the basement, next to my balcony, but a floor down (the vents are in a below ground concrete "room" with no roof, I guess kind of like a concrete well. Awesome, right?) Typically, the fans would turn on and off about once an hour for a few minutes. No big deal.

But lately, the fans are running all the time, for days on end, causing the balcony divider (plastic, with small gaps, and doesn't go all the way to the "ceiling") to vibrate-- which sends all the noise and vibrations into our apartment.

The only thing separating us from the noise is this sad little divider, so I was thinking that building a custom divider over the current one (the building allows this, as long as it is wood covered, or painted white or brown). We plan to build one anyway because the building-supplied divider is ugly, so while we're at it, is there a way to incorporate  noise and vibration reduction, too? I'm not expecting it to go away entirely, but to help take the edge off a bit.
 If no sill a few pane support screws should be added to prevent the pane from sliding down.

Randy S.
HI Randy, to afford the weight of  the 3/8 acrylic sheet (My window is 47*67).  What width of the Magnetic Tape  should I use.  I think the sheet may be heavy. Do you have any experience to keep it safe?  Thanks a lot. 
3/8" standard acrylic will work fine.

Randy S.
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