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81
Robert,

Here are the answers to your questions.

Questions -

Q, Should the frame be attached on all four sides or just the floor and ceiling? all 4 sides due to weight load

 - Leaning towards all four sides with isolations strips or Tecsound used as an isolation strip, thinking it will be easier to fill frame with AW without the small gaps on sides?agreed

Q, Is it worth the covering the frame in Tecsound?not if your floating on resilient channel

Q, Is better to have noggins or no noggins will the res bar provide the stability to the frame? I am not familiar with the term "noggins" but since you are loading 2 layers with RC1 you should use vibration pads every 2' on the floor to help support the weight and maintain the 1/4" gap required around the perimeter when floating a wall..you do not want it sagging over time.

Q, Additionally will the AW perform better if not separated by noggins? As the aloves are both small is it better to have 600 or 400 centres is less wood in the frame better for acoustic performance?I am again unsure of the question here, but if you are referring to 16" vs. 24" stud spacing , go with 24" it is better.

Q, Should i just use two layers of 12.5mm plasterboard or will I achieve better performance with two different thicknesses say 12.5mm and 15mm if so which are the best? the more weight the better the reduction

Q, Is it best to go large with plasterboard and have fewer joins as possible?yes and offset the seams of each layer

Q, I will be using Tecsound SY70 membrane between the two sheets of plasterboard, does this just cover the plasterboard or go the wall, ceiling and floor? A lot manufacturers guidance states overlapping edges but cannot see it practical in this instance?cover the entire wall and butt joint on studs if possible hanging the material vertically

make sure you leave a 1/4" around the perimeter of each layer of plasterboard and fill with acoustic caulk, you do not leave a perimeter gap for the tecsound sy70.

hope this helps you out.

Randy S.
82
Hi All,

Done all of my research and about to make the plunge and order all the bits i need, would just like to clarify a few points first here if possible.

Problem - Neighbour noise (LOUD)

My solution -

Independent stud wall

2 x 4 stud frame with 100mm acoustic wool in voids and 2.5 cm void between original wall. Two layers of plasterboard fixed with res bar sandwiching a layer of Tecsound SY70 with both layers of PB sealed at edges with acoustic sealant.

Questions -

Q, Should the frame be attached on all four sides or just the floor and ceiling?

 - Leaning towards all four sides with isolations strips or Tecsound used as an isolation strip, thinking it will be easier to fill frame with AW without the small gaps on sides?

Q, Is it worth the covering the frame in Tecsound?

Q, Is better to have noggins or no noggins will the res bar provide the stability to the frame?

Q, Additionally will the AW perform better if not separated by noggins? As the aloves are both small is it better to have 600 or 400 centres is less wood in the frame better for acoustic performance?

Q, Should i just use two layers of 12.5mm plasterboard or will I achieve better performance with two different thicknesses say 12.5mm and 15mm if so which are the best?

Q, Is it best to go large with plasterboard and have fewer joins as possible?

Q, I will be using Tecsound SY70 membrane between the two sheets of plasterboard, does this just cover the plasterboard or go the wall, ceiling and floor? A lot manufacturers guidance states overlapping edges but cannot see it practical in this instance?

Materials -

2 x 4 stud frame
Rockwool Soundslab 100mm
Tecsound SY70
British Gypsum Gyproc Soundbloc 12.5mm Tapered Edge Plasterboard 2700mm x 1200mm
AC50 Acoustic sealant
Jointing Tape

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, pretty much there just need some answers i can not seem to find online decisively.

Thanks

Robert
83
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Dual pane laminate or BQuiet/laminate insert
« Last post by Randy S on August 16, 2017, 03:12:12 PM »
you should get good results due to the air gap, however I would increase the acrylic thickness to 3/8" for traffic noise.
If you choose to do a full window replacement you should be looking into windows with STC 40+

Randy S.
84
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Dual pane laminate or BQuiet/laminate insert
« Last post by MikeTw on August 14, 2017, 11:06:46 PM »
Replacement windows Stc mid to high 30s

BQuiet is 1/4 "

Gap will be about 3-4" with builtout frame for BQuiet behind double and triple pane windows

Thanks
85
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Dual pane laminate or BQuiet/laminate insert
« Last post by Randy S on August 14, 2017, 03:13:47 PM »
Do you know the STC or OITC rating for the replacement windows?

what is the thickness if the bquiet insert?

how much of an air space between the existing window and the insert?

advise,

Randy S.
86
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Dual pane laminate or BQuiet/laminate insert
« Last post by MikeTw on August 10, 2017, 10:31:35 PM »
Hi

I'm choosing between a new dual pane laminate window with minimal space between panes vs a laminate insert.

Which one would be better for reducing heavy traffic sounds from buses and trucks?
87
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Sound Proof a Nursery
« Last post by Randy S on August 10, 2017, 08:05:15 PM »
I did a project some years back where the client took our cotton fiber panels (not on website) and cut them into the shapes of the disney cars characters and had them wrapped in silk screened.

another customer just hung a large fishing net along the ceiling line from wall to wall and filled it with stuffed animals..

you can get creative.

Randy S.
88
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Sound Proof a Nursery
« Last post by jkooz83 on August 10, 2017, 06:55:13 PM »
OK thanks!   Would you happen to have any other tips to absorb sounds thats cheap and small that would like nice in a nursery and not gawdy?  Again i know i cant block the sound, my hope is to just deaden it as quickly as I can. Right now Ive got the plexiglass, Curtains, those sound panels
89
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Sound Proof a Nursery
« Last post by Randy S on August 10, 2017, 05:33:16 PM »
for that room size you would need at least 6 pcs 24" x 48" x 2" thick panels just to notice a change in the room.

for best absorption you would need 32 panels or equal surface area covered in absorption material.

Randy S.
760-752-3030
90
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Sound Proof a Nursery
« Last post by jkooz83 on August 10, 2017, 04:47:58 PM »
Well the plexiglass now is .22  and ive got a tight seal around the plexiglass and the frame, and i think it has helped. The curtains i am trying to find a good pair of the thick floor to ceiling kind and now with your advice ill shoot for the double width.

I haven't measured the height, but i would assume its a typical 8 foot ceiling.  with the room being a 10ft 10ft Length and width. My thoughts would jsut to have as much absorption on the wall/window facing the street since im unable to do a massive overhaul such as extra layer of drywall/greenglue/additional insulation etc.
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