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Hmm, I'll have to check up on the ones I've seen. I'll investigate. It's good to know they may do something at least. Many thanks!
depending on how much of an air gap you can achieve would dictate the overall STC of the magnaseal system.

Randy S.

Thanks for the chuckles !!! I actually get that more then you think...hahahaha

As for the window and magnaseal, you have a good air gap so using 1/2" or 3/4" acrylic would be ok.
You should get to STC 49 +/- couple points.
You do need to screw the L frame into the window box.
for the flush mount you would need a piece of wood to act as a sill to support the weight of the acrylic as the magnetic tape is for the seal only.

Oh my friend the door, the door, you are going to have to add a piece of wood to the bottom of the door to close that gap up or replace the door... the gap at the bottom for a soundproof room should be no bigger then 1/4" and a sealed sweep installed.

Now keep in mind, even in my best designed rooms that are double frame, double doors and double windows they will always be the weak points in the room.

Randy S.

Not sure what companies are offering in Canada, but you are looking for the highest STC rating or OITC rating of the window for best performance.

We recommend MILGARD Quiet line windows. but not sure if you can get them there.

Can not give you an estimate because we do not sell nor install windows.

Randy S.
as long as you get the acoustic curtains that have mass loaded vinyl in them, you would see some value of reduction.
How much reduction is to be determined.

Randy S.
Just spent a stupid amount of money to soundproof an extra bedroom for my music room and have used this site extensively for ideas.  So thank you for the all the help and advice I have received here.  It has been wife hates you.

My last 2 projects are the window and door into the room. 

The window is 58 3/4" wide x 35" height with no molding or sill around it.  It has about a 3" deep enclosure/jamb. I am trying to figure out if doing the Magnet Seal solution with Acrylic would be an acceptable alternative to a Soundproof Window.   I'd rather not spend $1200 on a window if the magnetic seal option would give me comparable results at half the price.  How do they compare?   Also got a couple of questions on the Magnet Seal solution...

     - Should you use screws to mount the magnetic L frame?  Concerned about poking more holes into the walls I just put up. But, just as concerned about using an adhesive
         glue that would be much harder to remove.
     - I would want to mount the acrylic on the outside of the opening, so I'm guessing I would need a "sill" of some sort to hold the weight?  More
     - Can I use 1/2" or 3/4" acrylic?  That is what my local Plastic company has.

The door is a Solid Core, but it turned out to be a little shorter in height.  I now have a 1 1/8" Gap under the door that I'm having problems filling.  It seems the door sweeps can cover gaps up to about 3/4",  which would leave me with a 1/2" gap still there, defeating the soundproofing of the entire room.  I really don't want to put a raised threshold on my brand new and stupidly expensive wood floor.  Do I need a new door or is there some other solution here? 

Anyway, thanks again.  I've been planning this project for years and have been using this site extensively.  Just about done now and hopefully my wife will forgive you when she hears (or not) the results.   ;)

Hello, I understand that mass (glass thickness and lamination), air gap (at least a couple inches) and seal is king, but just wanted to get some more specifics down.

Some of my windows are due to be replaced so I'm going to make them sound proof right off the bat instead of doing additive modifications like acrylic sheets or anything like that.

1. What kind of window specifics (eg. style, glass type (laminated or not), thickness, airgap) are well suited to sound proofing from traffic and aircraft and available on the market? What are the key words and styles that I should be looking for?

2. What would be a fair cost for the window + installation, say for a window about 60"x50" large. I'm in the Toronto area of Canada, but an estimate in the market that you are in would be very informative for me nonetheless.

3. Are there anything other things that I should keep in mind and consider before going ahead?

Thank you very much in advance for providing such good advice as always.


So pleased to have found this forum. I would really appreciate some advice. I'm looking for ways to reduce noise coming from my roof terrace as a courtesy to my neighbour who overlooks us at the back. Several evenings each summer I have to hold group suppers late at night as part of a festival I organise. We try to keep the noise down, and have no music (for example) and although my neighbour is begrudgingly accepting of the situation, I would love to find a (preferably temporary) way to at least reduce/absorb some of the noise. Researching on the internet I've read that hanging thick fabrics can help and I have been looking at professional, acoustic sound-absorbing curtains that are used in theatres etc (500g weight). Would these do anything at all if they were hung from our pergola (wooden, bamboo/cane roof) along the side that gives onto the neighbour's house? I'm prepared to take a gamble if there is a chance they'll work (even if it's impossible to say beforehand exactly how effective they will be) but won't bother if they categorically won't do anything.
Many thanks in advance for your thoughts.
imgur com / 0GNYwX0 We have two identical windows spaced about 2 feet apart with a very noisy highway right behind the treeline. It is I-285 in Atlanta. Trucks are required to take this bypass if they are coming through Atlanta, so we get a lot of rumbling noise which is especially disturbing in the evenings.

A contractor offered to install two interior mounted Schwinco windows (claims 38 STC) for about $2000 that he says will look something like this. imgur com / 9QhNG2e

How will that fare against a 3/8" interior acrylic window insert? Are there any other options for noise reduction we have not considered?

The exterior wall of the building is brick, so I suspect most of if not all of the noise should be entering through the windows.
Hi All,

I'm about to convert an attached, basement-level garage into a practice/teaching studio for percussion. Since this room is in the basement, and these are loud instruments, isolation is a priority. I've never done anything like this, but I have been doing a lot of research.

I intend to build MSM walls. Should I leave the existing walls alone and build new stud walls inside the room, leaving space in between both sets of walls, or should I break the plaster off of the existing walls in order to create more air space, and then build new walls inside the room, without external plasterboard on them? While the latter method seems counterintuitive, the book I'm reading ("The Studio Builder's Handbook" Owsinski/Moody) seems to suggest that this method would be better for sound isolation.

The house was built in 1926, and I'm not sure about the exact construction of the existing walls, but I can tell that I am dealing with stud walls that have some sort of coating on them, maybe painted plaster.

Thank you!
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