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Goatdan,

This is very achievable by doing some out of the box applications. I need a lot of information in order to put this together for you.
Just rattling off suggestions would most likely create mistakes so it would be best to contact me direct so I can get specific details on the access points in the ceiling and discuss particulars of the project.

Reach me direct

Randy S.
760-752-3030
randy@soundproofing.org
2
Hey everyone, sorry for the long first post, I have been wrestling with what seems like a pretty unique project, and I would love some input!

I have what I feel is a rather unique problem, and I'd love to get some more people to weigh in as I've never worked on something like this before.  In short, I own a duplex. We have tenants on the first floor, and then we live upstairs. Switching that is not an option.

The basement is wonderful and large, and I have a collection of arcade video and pinball machines that I would like to use down there, but not make it sound super loud in the living space above me. The quieter, the better so I could play at night for instance without feeling like I'm keeping anyone up.

The house is quite old. One of the challenges that I have is I seem to relatively regularly need to pop in the basement ceiling to adjust something, so I will need to have some sort of access to the space beyond parts of the ceiling. I can identify these parts if need be and do something different elsewhere.

The video games I can turn down, but the pinball machines have the relatively loud solenoid noises I can't turn down. This is where this seems to be a unique challenge, because the majority of the sounds are higher in the range. So far, I have...

Put down carpet tiles. Was planning to do this regardless of noise impact.

Put up Roxul Safe and Sound in the rafters. Researched this, and it seems regular fiberglass is equal to it in lower range, but Roxul seems better in the upper range which is what I need

I have been thinking my next step is to get mass loaded vinyl and hang it from the joists using drywall screws and rubber washers to let it hang a bit below the joists, while using acoustic sealer to glue together the edges. If I need to pop a section open to access some random space, I could unscrew that section and then replace it and the caulk to hold it there.

Will this get much of any real result? I don't mind spending extra to do a slightly better job, as I intend to live here for many, many years, but if this idea won't do much, I would rather rethink it. Before we moved in, the ceiling had a small wood layer, and that did a surprisingly great job reducing noise. I had to pull it down to access both a water pipe and the electric system however. I could also put wood back up, but I figure that won't do much for reducing sound.

Since drywall would be really difficult, is this the best method I can use for what I have? Is there a better solution that could address both the upper sounds I am generating and the ability to access what is above it reasonably? Would a layer of mlv followed by a wood ceiling be the best, or is the wood overkill?

Absolutely any help would be ridiculously appreciated.
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ok !! Noggin (wall frame blocking and/ or fire blocking) yes you should put at least a row in.

that should work for the bottom of the wall, recess it back a bit from the face of the wall and caulk the face.

randy S.
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Thanks Randy much appreciated.

The noggin is the horizontal brace for the studwork, wasn't sure if the res bar would give the frame enough strength on its own.

Haven't heard of vibration pads thinking I could use isolation strip cut to the right size and layered up haven't seen that product for sale here.

Thanks again

Rob
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Robert,

Here are the answers to your questions.

Questions -

Q, Should the frame be attached on all four sides or just the floor and ceiling? all 4 sides due to weight load

 - Leaning towards all four sides with isolations strips or Tecsound used as an isolation strip, thinking it will be easier to fill frame with AW without the small gaps on sides?agreed

Q, Is it worth the covering the frame in Tecsound?not if your floating on resilient channel

Q, Is better to have noggins or no noggins will the res bar provide the stability to the frame? I am not familiar with the term "noggins" but since you are loading 2 layers with RC1 you should use vibration pads every 2' on the floor to help support the weight and maintain the 1/4" gap required around the perimeter when floating a wall..you do not want it sagging over time.

Q, Additionally will the AW perform better if not separated by noggins? As the aloves are both small is it better to have 600 or 400 centres is less wood in the frame better for acoustic performance?I am again unsure of the question here, but if you are referring to 16" vs. 24" stud spacing , go with 24" it is better.

Q, Should i just use two layers of 12.5mm plasterboard or will I achieve better performance with two different thicknesses say 12.5mm and 15mm if so which are the best? the more weight the better the reduction

Q, Is it best to go large with plasterboard and have fewer joins as possible?yes and offset the seams of each layer

Q, I will be using Tecsound SY70 membrane between the two sheets of plasterboard, does this just cover the plasterboard or go the wall, ceiling and floor? A lot manufacturers guidance states overlapping edges but cannot see it practical in this instance?cover the entire wall and butt joint on studs if possible hanging the material vertically

make sure you leave a 1/4" around the perimeter of each layer of plasterboard and fill with acoustic caulk, you do not leave a perimeter gap for the tecsound sy70.

hope this helps you out.

Randy S.
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Hi All,

Done all of my research and about to make the plunge and order all the bits i need, would just like to clarify a few points first here if possible.

Problem - Neighbour noise (LOUD)

My solution -

Independent stud wall

2 x 4 stud frame with 100mm acoustic wool in voids and 2.5 cm void between original wall. Two layers of plasterboard fixed with res bar sandwiching a layer of Tecsound SY70 with both layers of PB sealed at edges with acoustic sealant.

Questions -

Q, Should the frame be attached on all four sides or just the floor and ceiling?

 - Leaning towards all four sides with isolations strips or Tecsound used as an isolation strip, thinking it will be easier to fill frame with AW without the small gaps on sides?

Q, Is it worth the covering the frame in Tecsound?

Q, Is better to have noggins or no noggins will the res bar provide the stability to the frame?

Q, Additionally will the AW perform better if not separated by noggins? As the aloves are both small is it better to have 600 or 400 centres is less wood in the frame better for acoustic performance?

Q, Should i just use two layers of 12.5mm plasterboard or will I achieve better performance with two different thicknesses say 12.5mm and 15mm if so which are the best?

Q, Is it best to go large with plasterboard and have fewer joins as possible?

Q, I will be using Tecsound SY70 membrane between the two sheets of plasterboard, does this just cover the plasterboard or go the wall, ceiling and floor? A lot manufacturers guidance states overlapping edges but cannot see it practical in this instance?

Materials -

2 x 4 stud frame
Rockwool Soundslab 100mm
Tecsound SY70
British Gypsum Gyproc Soundbloc 12.5mm Tapered Edge Plasterboard 2700mm x 1200mm
AC50 Acoustic sealant
Jointing Tape

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, pretty much there just need some answers i can not seem to find online decisively.

Thanks

Robert
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Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Dual pane laminate or BQuiet/laminate insert
« Last post by Randy S on August 16, 2017, 03:12:12 PM »
you should get good results due to the air gap, however I would increase the acrylic thickness to 3/8" for traffic noise.
If you choose to do a full window replacement you should be looking into windows with STC 40+

Randy S.
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Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Dual pane laminate or BQuiet/laminate insert
« Last post by MikeTw on August 14, 2017, 11:06:46 PM »
Replacement windows Stc mid to high 30s

BQuiet is 1/4 "

Gap will be about 3-4" with builtout frame for BQuiet behind double and triple pane windows

Thanks
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Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Dual pane laminate or BQuiet/laminate insert
« Last post by Randy S on August 14, 2017, 03:13:47 PM »
Do you know the STC or OITC rating for the replacement windows?

what is the thickness if the bquiet insert?

how much of an air space between the existing window and the insert?

advise,

Randy S.
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Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Dual pane laminate or BQuiet/laminate insert
« Last post by MikeTw on August 10, 2017, 10:31:35 PM »
Hi

I'm choosing between a new dual pane laminate window with minimal space between panes vs a laminate insert.

Which one would be better for reducing heavy traffic sounds from buses and trucks?
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