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Go higher and closer to source if possible.

dealing with outside noise reduction outcomes have never impressed me based on cost vs. reduction.

Randy S.
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Hi Randy,

Thanks for the info. The neighbor's fence is of the shadow box style, so it may not be the best comparison to a full privacy fence.

Nevertheless, assuming that there is a diminishing effect as one moves away from the fence are there any additional steps that can be taken?
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The mass of the fence/wall is important but what gives you the value is the diffracted path and shadow zone..

The distance from the road to the fence is normal, The problem I see is the distance from the fence to the house, a 10' fence might take the edge of the traffic noise off but I would not expect more then 3db drop at best.

What I would do (if you can) is go to the neighbors house and stand at the 10' wall in there yard  then start walking away from it and you will hear the sound increase when you reach the end of the quiet zone.
If this value is acceptable then proceed.

Feel free to call me direct.

Randy S.
760-752-3030

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My fiance and I are currently in the process of purchasing a home. The house is beautifully redone and is on a ~1 acre lot that, unfortunately, backs up to a pretty major road - 4 lanes (2N, 2S) with speed limit of 45mph. Were it not for this negative the house would certainly be out of our price range, and so we've decided to compromise on the presence of some street noise.

That being said, the majority of the noise problem is outside. Inside, with the windows closed (presumably b/c they're brand new) we can't hear any street noise.

The fence along the back of the yard needs to be replaced. It's pretty rotted and essentially falling down in a few places (as you can see in the pictures). Since we're going to rip the thing out and replace it anyway, we want to consider what our options are in terms of trying to get the most noise reduction we can.

I've done a bunch of reading and the biggest factors seem to be mass and height. The fence itself is roughly 50 ft from the road, while the yard is then ~200 feet from the back of the house to the fence. It' essentially a flat line between the house and the road. The lot is ~140 feet wide

I know there are issues with city ordinances, which I will look in to, but I know a couple of our neighbors have fences that look like they're 10ft or so along the back of the property line.

The plan right now is to have a fence built and line it pretty densely with trees and shrubs. I have a couple questions, though, about materials for the fence.

I've read a bit about using MLV in conjunction with a wood fence to add some absorption to the sound dampening. I'd love to hear someone's experience with this and whether it was deemed worthwhile from a cost perspective. I saw in another thread here it also suggested to add cement board, presumably to add some more mass to the fence?

We've also considered having a cement wall built, but this seems like it would be prohibitively expensive. We need to fence a good chunk of the rest of the yard as well (have a couple of dogs), so the budget is a concern.

Building a bern also seems infeasible given the location of that shed structure and the proximity to the road.

Someone on another forum had suggested Symtek http://www.simtekfence.com/

I think the biggest concern is spending a significant amount of additional money beyond what it would cost to just put in a board-on-board cedar fence without any noticeable benefits.

Thanks

Pictures of yard and road: https://imgur.com/a/Fp5e3
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You must decouple the drywall from the joist system.
insulating the cavity is a must , you can add MLV barrier to help control and contain noise in the cavity followed by using clips and channel (a must do for impact)
Then I normally follow that by double 5/8" drywall with green glue in between.

feel free to reach out direct to discuss particulars and additional tips.
 
Randy S.
760-752-3030
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My upstairs neighbours are driving me crazy since with their kids running and jumping for hours on end and at very early (5-6 AM) hours on weekends!

What would be the best soundproofing solution for my needs? I very rarely hear voices or screaming but when I do it's very faint and tolerable but it's the impact noise from their feet, objects being dropped and furniture being moved that really drives me mad.

The footsteps are very bassy sounding so very low frequency I would say in the hundreds of Hz or so not sure how to measure that though.

My ceinling is made of cement and is 2.8 m heigh. I was told that the best option is to make a drywall false ceiling and stuff the gap with high density (100 kg/m3) rockwool material.

Not sure if this is the best solution for my needs and I want to block all the noise if possible.

How much lower will the new false ceiling have to be? is 40cm lower enough?

So many variables at play here and I would love to hear what the experts have to say.

Cheers!
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you might need to make your home sound proof. other choices are as talking is best way to solve an issue so just go and talk with your neighbors to stop using such so old garbage disposal.new and good quality garbage disposal would never make such noises you may also purchase a small garbage disposal for hundred bucks and gift that to your neighbors and ask them to stop using the old one as it makes huge noises
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Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Success! DIY secondary glazing story
« Last post by Kosseri on January 24, 2018, 05:50:59 PM »
Thanks for sharing your experiences, Kevin. What kind of prior experience did you have with this? Just curious, as I'm trying to decide if I should do this on my own or not. I'm a total newbie.
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mass loaded vinyl and 1/2" cement board together.

http://www.supersoundproofingsales.com/Mass-Loaded-Vinyl-2-lb-sqft-48-W-per-foot/productinfo/09-00005-48-2F/

No gaps any where.
Make sure the barrier hits the ground.

This is going to increase the fence weight by 5lbs sqft. so prepare the fence to support the added weight.

Your height will be what actually dictates reduction, this is known as diffracted path and shadow zone.
 So your fence might still not be high enough depending on distance from source to wall and from wall to receiver.

Since you are in socal you can see this up and down the I-5  go look how high the freeway noise abatement walls are.

Do the best you can, so that cost is justified by the reduction.

Randy S.
760-752-3030
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Kind folks, please offer some of your wisdom on this:

I want to soundproof a wooden fence that has redwood pickets on both sides. We are extending it from 6' to 8' tall. The fence separates two small one-story homes.

Please recommend a few types of soundproofing material that:
1) will not mold, and
2) will do a good job muffling the sound of a female with a loud swooping "head tone voice" (think Julia Child 200-500 Hz) and a medium sized dog who barks a lot. (1500 Hz?) Road noise isn't an issue.

I currently have some carpet underlayment in there but my neighbor is worried it will mold once I put the pickets up on my side. (So far, no mold and it's been stapled up there for two years.) We live in SoCal, so no freezing temps, no snow. It rains a few times per year.
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