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same principle as a window plug.

use a nice heavy wood as a backer for rigidity and make sure it seals air tight like a cork in a bottle.

Randy S.
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Success! DIY secondary glazing story
« Last post by kevinr on October 09, 2017, 02:07:52 AM »

This morning I had double pane glazing installed. It comprised of a 6.3mm SoundStop acoustic glass - a specially designed laminate with soft plastic interlayer - a 10mm gap, and a 4mm pane.

The original dB measurement with 4-5mm single pane was:

- With the window closed, no secondary glazing: 42 - 55 dB (avg and peak)
- With the window closed and my secondary glazing: 32 - 45 dB (avg and peak)

The new measurement is:

- With the new double pane window closed and my secondary glazing: 29 - 37.5 dB (avg and peak).

So a difference of 3dB less on average, and a peak of 7.5dB less, though I think there are fewer trucks coming through at this time of measurement which skews the top end result.

The result is much as I expected and read about. I thought the SoundStop might have made more of an improvement, but the biggest difference is the secondary glazing and an air gap.
I'm living in a basement apartment, but for some reason the original designer left about a foot airgap between the wall and the stairs up to the second level, so I can hear everything that happens in the house as if it's in my bedroom.

Here are some pictures:

Solidworks mockup:

I'm thinking of making something with a wood veneer and some rigid foam insulation to help dampen the noise. Is there a more obvious solution I'm not thinking of?


These sound like T-bar ceiling tiles...

Are you handy? if so maybe a DIY 4"-6" thick mineral wool or cotton fiber panels.
if you make your own you can add a septum of mass loaded vinyl which would give e bit more help in the low frequencies since you do not have much mass on the walls.

Randy S.
Randy, this is such helpful information. Thank you so much.

The tiles that the company was intending to install are listed as:
2’x2’x 1.5” white beveled edge class A fire rated Melamine Foam Tiles

So that's 1.5" thickness.

Do you carry thicker products that you feel would give me more assistance with soundproofing than these melamine tiles, as you described?


Without decoupling your chances of reducing low frequencies becomes minimal, which would require opening the walls or take a risk on a triple leaf system (which I personally do not like to do)

As for the absorption aspect, yes if you address corners and cover the majority of the walls you would reduce some of the sound pressure levels and therefore reducing some of the transmission..

The real question would be how thick would you need to go to see cost vs reduction..

See when doing room acoustics you do not need to get so thick because you are essentially tuning the room, but if you are trying to get "soundproofing" out of acoustic conditioning this changes the game a bit and requires thicker material and far more surface area coverage...

Randy S.

Randy, thank you so much for your reply.

I would imagine that you would say there is no way to truly address this without actually opening up the walls. Is that true?

We are planning to put up melamine tiles on a portion of all walls. I understand that this doesn't decouple— but your description of sound waves hitting the entire room— will the tiles at least absorb some of the waves and thereby prevent them from traveling?

I guess what I'm saying is that we aren't in a position to open up the walls, and that we are willing to live with a situation that is not completely soundproofed. But we wanted the improvement to be more substantial than it has been so far.

So, within those parameters— do you think that the absorption on the walls can make any significant difference?

Again, thank you so much.
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Success! DIY secondary glazing story
« Last post by kevinr on September 28, 2017, 10:13:50 AM »
Correction: 6mm is 1/4" - not the 1/2" I gave.
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Success! DIY secondary glazing story
« Last post by kevinr on September 28, 2017, 08:21:41 AM »
Over the last few weeks I've been reading as much as I can here about soundproofing our townhouse. It is an attractive 3-story 2000 sq ft home on a busy road right on the waterfront.

But my home office and the main bedroom - the two rooms I need quiet for - are on the second floor just 30 feet away from 12,000 cars and trucks each day. And we're also near the flight path to our airport, where aircraft reach only 2,000 ft on their departure/arrival.

However, I knew when we bought this place 2 months ago that nothing was impossible, and so I set to work to get some peace and quiet.

The first step was to order double glazing for both second-floor rooms. I did that partway through my research, and I know now it will make a little difference - but not as much as secondary glazing.

So while I waited for the install early in October, I decided to go ahead and do some DIY secondary glazing, because from the comments on this forum and elsewhere I wasn't entirely sure that double glazing would give the final best result.

So this afternoon I fitted the following to my office window of 4.6ft x 5.5ft:

- Two 6mm / 1/2" acrylic sheets fixed with magnetic tape to the interior outside edge of the window frame, giving an air gap of 4" from the existing single pane window.

The result was almost instant quiet, showing an average drop of 10 dB from the road noise, and far better than I expected. I measured it about 3 feet from the window:

- With the window closed, no secondary glazing: 42 - 55 dB (avg and peak)
- With the window closed and my secondary glazing: 32 -45 dB.

I made the readings from the NIOSH SLM iPhone app, which is one of the more accurate meters I've used. I averaged the readings out over 5 minutes each time and they were very consistent.

The best part, I later tried my Bose noise-canceling headset, and everything disappeared! Absolutely no noise whatsoever. Up till now when I wanted thinking/writing time I had to use a Youtube rain forest background through the Bose and often turn it up to 4/10 volume to drown out trucks and tire noise.

Now, near silence.

Without the Bose and sitting 3-4 feet away from the window the sound is very muted. Of course, large trucks and motorcycle mufflers are never completely quietened, but it is a considerable reduction there nevertheless. So I'm delighted.

As Randy often says in his replies to the questions on this topic: You need mass and air to kill noise. I agree and my setup proves it.

I was going originally to use 3/8" /10mm acrylic instead of the 6mm, but the extra weight made it impractical. For security, I have used two screws at the bottom of the 6mm panel to support it. The 10mm panel will take a lot more work to support.

So maybe 10mm is in the future now that I've seen how effective secondary glazing can be. I can only hope that the upcoming double glazing will put the final edge on the project, and I'm looking forward to that.

So thanks everyone for your contribution to my knowledge base!
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: How to seal two acrylic sheets together?
« Last post by Randy S on September 25, 2017, 08:54:45 PM »
Let us know how it works if you do that method..this has been a problem we have been trying to solve for years with mixed and failing results.

Randy S.
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