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Soundproofing your Condo, Townhouse or Bed & Breakfast / Re: CEILING SOUNDPROOFING
« Last post by Randy S on January 08, 2019, 04:17:25 PM »
Using the factory edge is my go to because on all my site visits I rarely find guys snapping drywall perfect and it is really visible from sheet to sheet around the perimeter.

I like your idea, how would you hide the corner bead and keep a straight caulking gap the length of the perimeter?

I am really interested in how that looks when finished. This is something we deal with often and is hard to fix without removing sheets of drywall. this could be an instant fix.


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Soundproofing your Condo, Townhouse or Bed & Breakfast / Re: CEILING SOUNDPROOFING
« Last post by guarddog on January 08, 2019, 02:13:40 AM »
Yes, that looks good.  Using the factory edge always may not be so ideal, depending on the room.

I was thinking about using a corner bead as well as an option.  Just embedding the side on the ceiling and pushing the other edge up in the gap, then caulk.

I made a little image, attached.

So I could try the factory edge and use the bead if the factory edge does not work out well enough.
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Soundproofing your Condo, Townhouse or Bed & Breakfast / Re: CEILING SOUNDPROOFING
« Last post by Randy S on January 07, 2019, 04:27:57 PM »
The key to this is to make sure you are only using factory edge of the drywall and exact shim sizes.
once the caulking is installed use a caulking corner tool to finish while wet.
coat with a primer and paint, it actually looks good when done right.
if you are going to use molding simply caulk drywall gap first then when installing the molding leave an 1/8" from the molding to the ceiling and attach molding to the wall only and finish the same way with caulking the gap to the ceiling, primer and paint.

I've attached a photo of a corner done with just caulking and primer (before paint) ignore the foam bumper shown, this is for the isolated floor.

Randy S.
760-752-3030
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Soundproofing your Condo, Townhouse or Bed & Breakfast / Re: CEILING SOUNDPROOFING
« Last post by guarddog on January 06, 2019, 11:30:01 AM »
you must leave the perimeter free from hard connections and only use non hardening caulk so you do not create a drum effect.

I see this always mentioned, it is also visually covered on this page or your site.

I would assume this means you can't finish the drywall connection point between the ceiling and the wall in the normal way, as it would create a hard connection (and crack the drywall mud I would assume).

So my question is how are you supposed to finish the ceiling drywall edge?  If you leave a small gap of 1/8th or something which you then fill with acoustical caulk you would still have a funny looking ceiling edge.

Is there some type of trim you can butt the ceiling drywall up against to make a straight finished edge?
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Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: best solution for large sliding glass door?
« Last post by Randy S on January 02, 2019, 04:43:04 PM »
I can not give you an idea of cost but you are correct about the double sliders back to back.
That has been the only solution I have seen with the exception of a high 40+ STC rated slider replacement.

Randy S.
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you would get some value of reduction, the real question is it enough reduction.

Since you already know about doubling the mass to achieve a better value, you can start with your idea but build the frame to hold more mass if needed.

Randy S.

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Soundproofing Windows and Doors / best solution for large sliding glass door?
« Last post by slidingglass on December 29, 2018, 06:27:55 PM »
I have a large sliding glass door, approx 120" x 78", which unfortunately faces a school playground. playground's a good distance away but children are extremely loud so it's a problem anyways.


I'm wondering what the best solution for this is. most solutions I've seen for windows involves adding another "window" on the interior to create an air gap, which seems like it's going to be...slightly more difficult for a sliding glass door.


I'm wondering how effective replacing the door with an impact glass door would be since I live on the east coast in a hurricane-prone area anyways. I've also considered just replacing the door with a fixed window and then maybe the double-window thing would work, it already remains closed about 99% of the time anyways, it's a door out to the front of the house, not the back, about 10 feet from the front door.


anyone have any suggestions, ideas of how much this might end up costing, etc.?
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Hello everyone, and Merry Christmas Eve.

In the past I have been able to mitigate sound very well with two layers of dry wall. It's cheap, easy to work with, and if more is needed you just add to what you already have. However, now I am renting, and my renter's lease reads "Resident shall do no remodeling and shall make no alterations of any kind to the Premises of any kind without the written consent of Owner". I like how they capitalized owner and premises.... makes it more official I suppose :)

The sound I am having trouble with is him tromping around up there now and then, and also what sounds like someone dropping a plastic cup or something on the floor. That one is unsettling, as it is always unexpected when it occurs. Thankfully I have no booming stereo up there.

I'm not a lawyer, but to me the words premises and remodeling mean I cannot make any changes to "the structure" of the apt. No painting, no carpeting, and of course, no dry wall screwed to the ceiling. So I was thinking of building 2 sound boxes around my computer desk and bed that do not attach to the walls or ceiling in any way. Frame them up w/ 2x4's, screw 2 layers of dry wall to that, and the end of noise. Does this sound like it would work? I could hinge the sides of the boxes like doors to allow walking in and out, then shut them for when I am in them. There is a wall a/c near the desk, and I was going to buy a small one for the bed area, then vent things at the bottom with slots. It sounds sorta odd I suppose, but the cost would be small and the boxes would be easy to build. 
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Use our 1/4" mass loaded vinyl and a layer of 1/2" cement board (hardie backer) not duroc.
seal this thing like a fish tank with acoustic caulking.
insulated the cavities.
and most important , make sure the door weights the same as the walls.
7-8 lbs sqft.

http://www.supersoundproofingsales.com/Mass-Loaded-Vinyl-2-lb-sqft-48-W-per-foot/productinfo/09-00005-48-2F/

Randy S.
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Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Soundproofing large windows against 70dB?
« Last post by Randy S on December 17, 2018, 04:06:24 PM »
Yes it would especially for lower frequencies.
The only thing that would alter my statement would be cost vs reduction.
The gains for another inch would be estimated at 6 STC additional points so as long as the cost of moving the existing window out further was not double the cost go for it.

Randy S.
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