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I recently purchased a house which has a secondary street on the back. One of the things that bothers me is the road noise from time to time. I got two quotes and the salesmen said the windows with laminated glass will stop the noise. My concern is that they are trying to make a sale regardless of how well the windows stop noise.

The house is made from cinder blocks, which makes me believe most sound is coming from the windows. From the research I did the Simonton 5500 with laminated glass has a STC of about 35

I took two videos of what the sound is like. If you could please comment on whether you think a laminated window with a STC of about 35 would stop the noise from entering the bedroom.
  • New home being built--selected from builder's palate of  about 10 floor plans
    Studio will be on 1st floor with concrete floor
    studio room sticks out from house floor plan, so has three exterior walls
    Exterior walls will have brick on the outside of the house
    2 1/4" gap between exterior wrap of house (Tyvek) and interior face of brick wall
    From outside it goes 2.5" brick-->1" air space-->wrap, sheathing, 2 x 4 frame, interior drywall. Then would come the interior room in a room wall which would be 2 x 4, 2 layers of 5/8" gypsum board (possibly with green glue between them).

If I build room in a room in studio space, will I be creating a triple leaf with the new isolated wall? My concern is because of the air gap already between the frame of the house and the brick.


Tim the Grey
Hey, I have an idea to make my garage soundproofing so I could play there with my band. So thinking what kind of flooring would be great so that I could keep my motorcycle there either. For now, I am using a GPS tracker and all good, but when weather is worse I want to keep my bike warm and safe. 
I absolutely want the shape of the hole too
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / 1x interior w/ big air gap or 2x w/ 2 smaller gaps
« Last post by mankoff on December 19, 2019, 10:20:59 PM »

I've been reading the forums and researching how to reduce some sound noise. These are great forums. Thank you!

50-60 dB road noise I would like to reduce. It is coming through walls and windows. I've been told the walls were built w/ double 2x4 framing off-set so there is *no contact* between the outer frame and the inner. I assume therefore most noise comes through the windows.

Windows are double pane window vinyl frame, 8" deep sill, and 96" x 36".

Any suggestions how to reduce the noise will be much appreciated. I was going to start with a DIY acrylic sheet in the frame, sealed around the edges with caulk.

I know mass and air gap are key, and mass is often given up because of the benefits of acrylic. What type of air gap is best? I see from,3267.msg8475.html#msg8475 that a 1" air get has STC 37 and 2" has STC 43 for the same windows on either side.

Given my 8" frame, and I want to keep a small frame when project done, which is better:

existing double pane, 5.5" air gap, 1/2" acrylic, 2 inch sill OR
existing double pane, 2" air gap, 1/2" acrylic, 2" air gap, 1/2" acrylic, 2 inch sill.

Or would 1/4 + 1/2 be better than 1/2 + 1/2 to break harmonics?
Other suggestions?


Hi All,

I'm hoping to get some feedback on my plan below ...there is also a question regarding the joists in there.

I have a room in my basement, appx 12' x 12', that I'm converting to be a drum room (my 10 year old son is learning) and rehearsal room (I play bass and hope to have the guys over to practice). 

The good news: the room is raw (unfinished), a very manageable size with mostly straight lines, has no duct work (radiant heat with asbestos covered pipes), and has concrete walls that have earth to about 3/4 of their height. 

The bad news: there are two windows (though not large ones), the living room (where we spend much of our time) is directly above, it abuts the staircase, and the ceiling is low .. 8" joists are at about 6' 11.5".

My plan is:

ceiling: One layer of 3" Sound and Fire mineral wool insulation against the flooring above.  add 6" joists dropped 1" below existing joists and between them (under the insulation). Add one layer of 3" insulation between new floating joists flush with bottom (2.5" air gap between insulation layers).  1/2" drywall to edges of unframed room.  Greenglued layer of 5/8" quietrock over that to edges of unframed room.

walls will be built up to drywall ceiling with any gaps filled with gg sealant

concrete walls:  framed 2x4 stud wall with 5/8" drywall on one side, 3" mineral wool, 1/2" drywall on the other side, 2"+ gap between outside drywall and concrete ... special "plugs" will be made to deal with windows.

interior walls: double studded on 8x2" footer ... double insulation (3" min wool) in each set of studs with a gap between.  double drywall (5/8" and 1/2") on each between these walls and existing walls/structure

door: bought heavy-weight hinges and will build a section of double wall in the same fashion that will swing inward (think secret bookcase door).

One Big Q:  The floating joists I have are below the floor by 3 inches or so and don't touch the existing joists, but they are current hung with toe-notches on the existing wall headers (old, hard, 1906 hardwood 2x8s).  Given all the layers on them, will they transfer sound into the header, then the original joists, and give me significant noise?  Do I need to consider cutting them to the interior wall (in a wall)?  My BIGGEST need is to keep noise from travelling up...sideways is way less of a concern.

BTW - this is a free standing single family home.  Thanks in advance!
I have a unique situation where I live in a 1bd apartment with thin walls, and my landlord is willing to work with me, and implement a solution with the research I’ve done.

The noise: I can hear a lot from my upstairs neighbors. I can hear them when they talk decently loud with each other. I can hear every step they make (they’re heel walkers). I can even hear them when they get busy in the bedroom.

The caveats: I have a popcorn ceiling which my landlord really doesn’t want to scrape away as he doesn’t know if it has asbestos, which would be an expensive process. It seems like sealing the popcorn ceiling in is my best bet. Additionally my landlord doesn’t know the stud configuration, so I don’t know what kind of decoupling I already have. Whatever it is, it’s not good lol.

My current plan:
First I want to seal any small ceiling holes. I can’t really see where holes are though since it’s popcorn. I do see a few sort of obvious looking places though where it looks like screws may have been before.

Next I’m thinking of screwing strapping on the ceiling (1x3), and then doing a resilient channel and clip system. I could use some advice here. I don’t know how well this will work. Also, is it worth doing some MLV sheets between the strapping and the channels?

Next I’ll screw a piece of 5/8” Type X drywall, and green glue it to another 5/8” piece of drywall.

I’ll do all the same to my shared wall.

I could use some advice on how to finish the wall, if that makes a significant difference.

Thanks in advance!
Other Soundproofing Questions / Re: soundproofing existing hardwood floor
« Last post by Gary Bosborn on December 11, 2019, 06:19:48 AM »
Hello, I hope I can make this topic live again. I have a problem, that under my apartment neighbours gets a big step noise. We tried to use carpets, but it didn't work. Now we thinking to change the flooring, because it's very old and rusty. So I have a question. Do you know something about double-layer oak flooring? Is this hardwood flooring just look nice, or it has an effect to soundproof our apartment.
Hello, I'm so glad to have found this forum! I'm making a plug to go into a doorframe where there's a sliding, hollow-core door with gaps all around on the sides and so there might as well be no wall, as far as sound is concerned.

I had a piece of 5/8" plywood cut just a little smaller than the opening, but it turns out the opening is less uniform than I thought. Plan was to make a rubber gasket with adhesive weather sealing and slide the plug into place. But it's too tight in a couple of spots and just won't go in. I can see two options. 1, trim the plywood so it'll fit, but I'm concerned the gap will then be too large in places and hard to fill with the gasket. 2, keep it as is, use the rubber where it fits, and then get some calk for the narrow places where the rubber gasket won't fit. But that could turn out kind of half-assed, I'm afraid.

It seemed like a good plan, but I'm having doubts and would love any advice. Oh: I've also ordered some high-density, closed cell foam weather stripping to fill the gaps around the existing hollow-core door, so hopelly that also will be of some benefit and I'll end up with two sealed layers, with a couple of inches of air space between. Thanks!
I have a new neighbor who just moved here who likes to BLAST his TV for hours on end even though he was asked nicely not to (police could not help either). The noise pollution from this one incredibly RUDE neighbor from hell is making me SICK and no he does not have a hearing problem. My kitchen was just gutted and is being renovated so I need to soundproof wall before kitchen cabinets are installed..

My plan is to install one sheet of 5/8" sheetrock on top of the existing drywall. I will make sure to install this 5/8" sheetrock onto vertical wood beams in order to create an open SPACE between them. Is one 5/8" sheetrock enough or do I have to use two 5/8" sheetrock layered on top of each other??? I'm also confused what to "stuff" inside the wall near kitchen (shown in photo) to soundproof it?? There is NO drywall inside that section of wall... tons of noise is coming through that empty area.

I keep reading conflicting results regarding green glue compound. I'm on a VERY tight budget. I'm confused what I need to spread into the seams once the drywall has been installed?? I have about 40ft by 14ft of wall that needs to be soundproofed.

Thanks for any help!!
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