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Great question.

Decoupling and Mass are absolutely primary principles in an assembly but absorption and dampening do add additional value in their own way depending on the goal.

Insulation in the cavity is a must as it helps to absorb sound waves that would bounce around in the cavity and create a resonance chambers which helps airborne sound easily pass through the assembly.

Batting can not create a coupling effect from frame to frame as it is not rigid enough to pass vibration easily like wood or metal.

Randy S.
760-752-3030

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Hi, I've read that batting is pretty useless when it comes to soundproofing, contrary to popular belief. Seems decoupling and mass account for about 90%.
So here's my question: in a double stud wall, could batting actually be bad in that it creates a material bridge across which flangeing can take place?
If batting is useful, why exactly and how must it be used in such a wall assembly (decoupled double-stud wall with drywall boards either side) to be effective?

Thanks a lot. I look forward to getting some feedback on this.
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Me and my wife had issues with neighbors that always threw parties, had loud guests, etc and our house was near the highway, so we had to soundproof it. We used  []soundproofing exterior walls[/url] and it worked like a charm. The day after we soundproofed our house was the first day I had slept all night in years. I would recommend this type of acoustic barriers to everyone. It's cheap, reliable, easy to install, and effective 
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Other Soundproofing Questions / Re: I want to build a sleeping pod
« Last post by Randy S on June 21, 2019, 03:15:44 PM »
Ok so remember good soundproofing is based on Mass, so i would go ahead and build it as you described.
Think about thing in terms of weight lbs. per sqft.
if your wall in your house is 4.2-4.6 lbs a sqft you need to be heavier.

as you build it build it so it can hold double or triple the weight so you can add to it once it is in your room.

after the first round assess the value and every time you double the weight you will get another 5db drop. you can use Mass Loaded vinyl so that it is easy to add weight.

Randy S.
760-752-3030
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Other Soundproofing Questions / I want to build a sleeping pod
« Last post by Heynow999 on June 21, 2019, 01:07:28 PM »
I want to build a sleeping pod.  I am bothered by noise and it often stops me from falling asleep.  I have a job where I have to get up very early, usually between 4 and 5 am, so I try to go to bed around 10.  The noise comes from either my family moving around the house or traffic noise.  My family is pretty good at trying to not make noise, but it is hard for them to be quiet as my bedroom is next to the bathroom.  The traffic noise is the local kids in trucks or on motorcycles racing up and down the main street of our town.  Yes I know I sound like a cranky old man!

The idea is to build a simple enclosure made out of inexpensive commonly available materials.  It will look like the Podtime sleeping pod


I want to make the pod out of 4x8 sheets of luan plywood, 1/2" lightweight drywall, cardboard, 1/2' drywall then laun again.  This would make a sandwich.  I would use 2x3 studs around the edge of the sandwich to provide strength.  The panels would be built  in my garage then carried up to the bedroom and assembled.  Each panel would weigh about 100 lbs so it would be too heavy to move in one piece, and too big to fit through the bedroom door.  The pod door would be about 36"x36" on the side, similar to the picture, but hanging on sliding door hardware so it can be slid open and closed.

I would make a vent for fresh air with a computer fan.  I would use techniques describe on this site to channel the vent so it doesn't let sound in.

My main concern is would this be effective?  I am not looking for complete quiet, and the noise I am trying to block is not that loud.  I just want a peaceful little sanctuary where I can close the door when I need it.  I have recently changed the window in the bedroom to triple pane glass and that helped, but I still hear the trucks.

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I’ve doing more research and acquired some neophrene isolator pads (2x2 .375”) with duroneter rating of around 45. I doubled them up and they definitely helped decreasing the vibrations by 50%. I did more research and planning at the recommendation of a contractor to insert and glue a steel plate between the pads to see if that further reduce the levels. The pads are not solid but have a kind of of a kind of x pattern cut outs through them. Fortunately, I can access the roof easily and slip in and remove and test different pads to see what works. The bad thing is that the problems units are not under my control so I have to wait until they kick in and be in my unit to see the pads are effective. Will report.
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something is not right, at 9 hz (the brown note)you can only feel it not hear it.
I am unsure if you would have much success at this. if you where creating the noise source then you could apply absorption for SPL but on the receiving side of things it will be very hard and costly.

Randy S.
760-752-3030
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just make sure your new frame does not touch walls and ceiling.
make sure the frame can hold 10-20 lbs sqft depending on how much reduction you want.

Best rooms can come in at 25lbs sqft.

your room value will be dictated by the weak spots like doors.

NO SUCH THING AS 100% SOUNDPROOF!
there is always a sound wave low enough to go through these walls...at some value.

Randy S.
760-752-3030

Hi Randy,

I took some recordings of the noises and to my surprise the dominant frequency is 9 Hz according to an audio spectrum analyzer.

Not sure if any solutions exists for such low frequency muffling.
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yes smaller, the pads can hold 50lbs per sq.in. so a 2x2 can hold 200lbs.

Randy S.
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Thanks very much for the answers. Helps. And on the question of size is it better to use larger (4x4) or smaller (2x2)? It sounds like it might be better to use smaller if the they are speced to handle the weight.
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