Recent Posts

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Hi All, brand newbie here in need of some help.

I've moved into a house recently and in 4 weeks-ish of living here, i've noticed that internal noise seems to travel through it quite a bit. External noise wise it's excellent, very quiet. But regarding sound from other rooms, including rooms that aren't even next to each other, it does seem much, much louder than what i'm used to.

It looks to me like pretty much all the walls on the ground floor are block/brick. (it's a 1955 Bungalow that's been converted into a 3 story). Having had a recent look online, i've seen a few options regarding how I can help reduce the noise levels by the way of using sound proofing materials, acoustic plasterboards and also other specialised noise reduction things that i've not come across before . I will be doing quite a bit of work to the rooms on the ground floor, so I guess now's the time to try and combat the noise levels too. :-)

Despite looking online, I am new to all this. So I have a few questions for anyone with experience here and kindly can help advise and direct me? I'm just not sure how far I should be going with this and/or the best way to do it.


1) In the rooms that already have normal 9mm / 12.5mm plasterboard atop the brick/block walls, am I correct in assuming that i'd rip that out and go with some of the 15mm acoustic plasterboard panels above in place of that OR Is it equally as effective to just add another layer of thicker 15mm acoustic plasterboard over the top of what's already there? The latter ofcourse being less invasive I guess?

2) Am I correct to assume that the door architraves/skirting boards and covings will need to come down and be refitted/replaced once i've either replaced the original plaster boards with thicker ones / added a 2nd thicker plasterboard ontop?

3) Am I correct to assume that if I do this in the inside walls of my rooms for example. It'll not only keep the noise IN, but also equally keep the noise OUT, OR would I have to do it on the outside of those walls to keep the noise OUT?

4) I've attached the floor plan and drawn red lines to resemble the walls of which I felt sensible to add sound proofing too. The ambition being when you're sat in any of those rooms, you'd hear less from the other rooms. With that in mind, does it look sensible? or should I be doing the walls in the hall ALSO?

5) Lastly, with this being on the ground floor, am I correct to assume I don't need to do any sound proofing to the floor? its carpet>underlay>floating floorboards.





thanks so much

P
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I manage a rental property for a family member and will living in one of the units soon (also helped oversee lot of renovations to building), and we're trying to maximize soundproofing to avoid disturbing the tenant above, and limit noise heard from below. I'm OK with a little noise myself but we want it to be OK for other tenants in future. The current assembly from the apartment above to apartment below is as follows:

Hardwood flooring (older, has some gaps; 3/4" thick sanded down to close to the nails)
2x10 or 2x12 joists with R-19 fiberglass batts
5/8 drywall (DensArmor; long story)
Green Glue (has not yet cured; installed 5-6 days ago; only one tube used per sheet)
5/8 drywall (regular type X)
Green Glue (has not yet cured; installed about 3 days ago; only one tube used per sheet)
5/8 drywall (")
On 2nd and 3rd drywall layer, gaps were sealed with caulk (Smoke N Sound) and extra spackle.

[Due to an unusual layout, there is not much at all in the way of plumbing above, and where there is, it's in good condition (as is electric) and easy to locate, though yes, I know it will be a bear and a dusty mess to get to it if needed. I also realize there is a lot of weight on the joists, but the area is divided into several very small rooms where 2x4 walls are supporting joists (where there are not many full sheets installed), and part of it is hanging on huge and very well-supported center beam, so I don't think there's a structural risk.]

In spite of all this, foot impact is still fairly loud (though I was expecting that), and some airborne noise (coughing, loud music [and not just the bass], very loud talking) is still passing through.

My questions are these:
 
1) Did we shoot ourselves in the feet by adding all that mass and not using 2+ tubes of GG per sheet? (I suspected, perhaps wrongly, that this might be excessive and intended to sell as much GG as possible)
2) Is there a very big difference after the curing of GG (especially since only used 1 tube)? Or put another way, does GG have much/any effect before it cures?

As a last ditch strategy, if after GG curing it still isn't enough, could the following work?

*Glue up a final 1/4" drywall sheet with generous amounts of both drywall adhesive and GG (2 tubes/sheet), and see if it will hold with short screws screwed into the drywall (not the joists), and 2x4s to press the sheets up while the adhesive dries - or perhaps even anchor it into drywall above with screw anchors? The goal would be to further isolate impact noise by not continuing to make contact with the joists, and block airborne noise further. I know this may be a dumb idea that won't work for a ceiling, and would appreciate any feedback.*

The idea with this final step would be to create an assembly similar to QuietRock 545 which looks like is composed mainly of 1/4" drywall. The apartment is very small (about half the size of one above; only about 340 sq ft), so there isn't a ton of labor and material involved in doing one more pass with 2 tubes GG/sheet, which can get for $15/tube; and wouldn't necessarily be needed in all rooms. Would probably cost about $400-700 total to do the 1/4" + GG install depending how many rooms covered.

I know lot of mistakes/sub-optimal choices have been made and we probably should've hired a pro to do it right from the beginning, but at this point we're looking to move forward the best way possible.



PS: I'm new here and wanted to reach out to moderators to change the verification process. One question is 'stopping annoying noise means?' (two words). I tried 'shutting up' 'quieting down' and shut/quiet. Now I think the answer may have been 'sound proofing' ? Yet the website itself spells soundproofing as one word. Second one was 'how many robots?' I said none, answer was zero. This is probably costing them members; then 'girl's favorite color?' Pink is not correct. Kind of annoying; I think they should stick to simple math questions.
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Soundproofing your single family home from traffic noise and neighbors. / Metal Fence
« Last post by MJBow on February 25, 2020, 07:29:36 PM »
Anyone have experience with metal fencing, which is basically, roofing panels?
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I recently purchased a house which has a secondary street on the back. One of the things that bothers me is the road noise from time to time. I got two quotes and the salesmen said the windows with laminated glass will stop the noise. My concern is that they are trying to make a sale regardless of how well the windows stop noise.

The house is made from cinder blocks, which makes me believe most sound is coming from the windows. From the research I did the Simonton 5500 with laminated glass has a STC of about 35

I took two videos of what the sound is like. If you could please comment on whether you think a laminated window with a STC of about 35 would stop the noise from entering the bedroom.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aLVSc1kH0Uc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ua5R6PQs9o
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Data:
  • New home being built--selected from builder's palate of  about 10 floor plans
    Studio will be on 1st floor with concrete floor
    studio room sticks out from house floor plan, so has three exterior walls
    Exterior walls will have brick on the outside of the house
    2 1/4" gap between exterior wrap of house (Tyvek) and interior face of brick wall
    From outside it goes 2.5" brick-->1" air space-->wrap, sheathing, 2 x 4 frame, interior drywall. Then would come the interior room in a room wall which would be 2 x 4, 2 layers of 5/8" gypsum board (possibly with green glue between them).

Question:
If I build room in a room in studio space, will I be creating a triple leaf with the new isolated wall? My concern is because of the air gap already between the frame of the house and the brick.

Thanks!

Tim the Grey
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Hey, I have an idea to make my garage soundproofing so I could play there with my band. So thinking what kind of flooring would be great so that I could keep my motorcycle there either. For now, I am using a GPS tracker and all good, but when weather is worse I want to keep my bike warm and safe. 
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I absolutely want the shape of the hole too
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Soundproofing Windows and Doors / 1x interior w/ big air gap or 2x w/ 2 smaller gaps
« Last post by mankoff on December 19, 2019, 10:20:59 PM »
Hello,

I've been reading the forums and researching how to reduce some sound noise. These are great forums. Thank you!

50-60 dB road noise I would like to reduce. It is coming through walls and windows. I've been told the walls were built w/ double 2x4 framing off-set so there is *no contact* between the outer frame and the inner. I assume therefore most noise comes through the windows.

Windows are double pane window vinyl frame, 8" deep sill, and 96" x 36".

Any suggestions how to reduce the noise will be much appreciated. I was going to start with a DIY acrylic sheet in the frame, sealed around the edges with caulk.

I know mass and air gap are key, and mass is often given up because of the benefits of acrylic. What type of air gap is best? I see from http://supersoundproofing.com/forum/index.php/topic,3267.msg8475.html#msg8475 that a 1" air get has STC 37 and 2" has STC 43 for the same windows on either side.

Given my 8" frame, and I want to keep a small frame when project done, which is better:

existing double pane, 5.5" air gap, 1/2" acrylic, 2 inch sill OR
existing double pane, 2" air gap, 1/2" acrylic, 2" air gap, 1/2" acrylic, 2 inch sill.

Or would 1/4 + 1/2 be better than 1/2 + 1/2 to break harmonics?
Other suggestions?

Thanks,

  -k.
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Hi All,

I'm hoping to get some feedback on my plan below ...there is also a question regarding the joists in there.

I have a room in my basement, appx 12' x 12', that I'm converting to be a drum room (my 10 year old son is learning) and rehearsal room (I play bass and hope to have the guys over to practice). 

The good news: the room is raw (unfinished), a very manageable size with mostly straight lines, has no duct work (radiant heat with asbestos covered pipes), and has concrete walls that have earth to about 3/4 of their height. 

The bad news: there are two windows (though not large ones), the living room (where we spend much of our time) is directly above, it abuts the staircase, and the ceiling is low .. 8" joists are at about 6' 11.5".

My plan is:

ceiling: One layer of 3" Sound and Fire mineral wool insulation against the flooring above.  add 6" joists dropped 1" below existing joists and between them (under the insulation). Add one layer of 3" insulation between new floating joists flush with bottom (2.5" air gap between insulation layers).  1/2" drywall to edges of unframed room.  Greenglued layer of 5/8" quietrock over that to edges of unframed room.

walls will be built up to drywall ceiling with any gaps filled with gg sealant

concrete walls:  framed 2x4 stud wall with 5/8" drywall on one side, 3" mineral wool, 1/2" drywall on the other side, 2"+ gap between outside drywall and concrete ... special "plugs" will be made to deal with windows.

interior walls: double studded on 8x2" footer ... double insulation (3" min wool) in each set of studs with a gap between.  double drywall (5/8" and 1/2") on each side....gap between these walls and existing walls/structure

door: bought heavy-weight hinges and will build a section of double wall in the same fashion that will swing inward (think secret bookcase door).

One Big Q:  The floating joists I have are below the floor by 3 inches or so and don't touch the existing joists, but they are current hung with toe-notches on the existing wall headers (old, hard, 1906 hardwood 2x8s).  Given all the layers on them, will they transfer sound into the header, then the original joists, and give me significant noise?  Do I need to consider cutting them to the interior wall (in a wall)?  My BIGGEST need is to keep noise from travelling up...sideways is way less of a concern.

BTW - this is a free standing single family home.  Thanks in advance!
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I have a unique situation where I live in a 1bd apartment with thin walls, and my landlord is willing to work with me, and implement a solution with the research I’ve done.

The noise: I can hear a lot from my upstairs neighbors. I can hear them when they talk decently loud with each other. I can hear every step they make (they’re heel walkers). I can even hear them when they get busy in the bedroom.

The caveats: I have a popcorn ceiling which my landlord really doesn’t want to scrape away as he doesn’t know if it has asbestos, which would be an expensive process. It seems like sealing the popcorn ceiling in is my best bet. Additionally my landlord doesn’t know the stud configuration, so I don’t know what kind of decoupling I already have. Whatever it is, it’s not good lol.


My current plan:
First I want to seal any small ceiling holes. I can’t really see where holes are though since it’s popcorn. I do see a few sort of obvious looking places though where it looks like screws may have been before.

Next I’m thinking of screwing strapping on the ceiling (1x3), and then doing a resilient channel and clip system. I could use some advice here. I don’t know how well this will work. Also, is it worth doing some MLV sheets between the strapping and the channels?

Next I’ll screw a piece of 5/8” Type X drywall, and green glue it to another 5/8” piece of drywall.

I’ll do all the same to my shared wall.

I could use some advice on how to finish the wall, if that makes a significant difference.

Thanks in advance!
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