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I bought a condo. The broker apparently showed it only when the upstairs neighbors weren’t home. The condos excessive ceiling lighting is proving to be a nightmare. I hear muffled conversations if directly overhead and can pinpoint where the various people are at all times given footfalls.
I’m considering soundproofing. I’ve read up and know there are two types of sound. Simplistically, footfalls and airborne.
All the forums say spray foam doesn’t really work. The solution seems to be:
1.   Cut off the existing ceiling
2.   Seal any holes with something like Green Glue Acoustic Sealant
3.   Insert rockwool safe and sound (or similar) in the joists – this should handle the airborne noise
4.   Use some kind of resilient channel system (metal rods) to run perpendicular to the joists. Goal being to create separation from the joists and my ceiling drywall to stop footfall driven soundwaves from traveling through
5.   Put up new drywall potentially quietrock
I talked to a local soundproofer and they said it was probably a $40k job. I really had that spare $40k laying in the corner slated for something else! So…I watched some youtube videos. Steps 1, 2, 3, and 4 seems fairly DIY. I’m no contractor, but this seems doable. I imagine I could hire a laborer to hang drywall for well shy of 40k.
Even if it was DIY this isn’t cheap. Rockwool seems to be about $50ish for a 5 square foot panel. So for a 225 sq ft room, I’m going to spend $2250 in rockwool alone. Quietrock seems to be about $350 for this space while regular drywall is about $50. Green glue is $100ish for a case online. Lowes seems to have a resilient channel system that is pretty affordable ($50 for the room). I’ve also seen the clip systems. I’m not having a really easy time getting pricing online but let’s say its $500 to be conservative with a lot of clips.
So, without labor help to hang drywall, I’m talking around $3k for supplies for a room. Probably a few hundred more for saws, masks, etc for the demolition.
Sheesh, wish there was an easier solution. Regardless, some questions:
•   Anything missing from my calculations?
•   Is there an effective and more affordable rockwool alternative?
•   Does anyone have proof of how effective this actually is? Would be tragic to spend the money and do all this and have it not really work. I know proper install is a big part of success but that seems to come from making sure you screw drywall into the resilient channel not the joists.
•   How do I deal with vents? Does anyone sell vent extenders?
•   How about lights and fans?
•   Will vents convey the sound and defeat the purpose?
•   Rockwool can’t cover the little Xs between the joists, does that matter?
•   If I do this to say a bedroom but don’t do the attached bathroom, will the footfall noise from the bathroom just transfer to the bedroom? I’m hoping the resilient channel will stop the vibration when it enters the soundproofed room but don’t know. Guessing rockwool will kill the airborne.
Thank you
The system will work fine for your window box. install recessed and use a bit of caulking to make sure the L-frame is sealed to the wall.

The frame system is for the seal only the weight of the panel is resting on the bottom of the sill.

with 3/8" acrylic and the air gap you achieve good reduction.

Best Regards,

Randy S.

I am just wondering whether I need to have a wood trim (sill) to get the benefit of Magnaseal solution. Our windows have a drywall recess of 5.5 inches so I can have 4" gap between the window glass and the acrylic sheet.  Can I just screw the L frame trim to the drywall and attach the acrylic sheet with the magnetic tape?  Do I need to remove drywall and install wood sill to get the maximum benefit?

Attached is my window that I am planning to soundproof..

Thank you in advance.
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Split panes and 2'' air gap
« Last post by Randy S on October 30, 2018, 03:49:25 PM »
As long as the cranks do not interfere with the recessed installation this should work just fine as one large insert.
As for reduction goes with a 2" air gap and 3/8" acrylic you should see 50% or greater reduction.

Randy S.

Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Split panes and 2'' air gap
« Last post by neycer on October 28, 2018, 05:46:34 PM »

I recently moved into a new house. It is only a few feet away from a road, as you can see in the picture I attached. The road is not super busy, but cars can still drive around 40mph, so the noise is very noticeable in the room.
I've read many posts on this forum and want to try this solution.

My window is a 4 feet (height) by 6 feet (width). It's an Andersen casement double-pane window. It has 3 panels: two on the side are 16 inches width, and one in the middle is 24 inches. (See attached picture 1)
My current plan is to remove the insect screens and install the 3/8" acrylic window. It should give me about 2'' air gap (See attached picture 2 for frame for insect screens).

First of all, does this sound like a reasonable plan? How much noise reduction (traffic noise) would I gain from this?
Also how easy is it to install the mounting the magnetseal: onto the insect screen frames?
It seems that I'll have to do "Recessed" installation?


We can provide information and wall systems for this type of project and we do have some contractors that we can recommend depending on your location, I do not have contractors all over the country.

It would be best to give me a call direct to discuss the variables of your project.

I look forward to working with you.

Best Regards,

Randy S.
Hi everyone

I have a common wall between my master bedroom and second bedroom.  On  the master bedroom side I will have my TV and my Mixer and music equipment and will be facing that way when I record (singing and guitar).  I don't want to disturb my baby in the second bedroom.  Is there a way to soundproof this to eliminate most of the noise so he wont wake up and it needs to be safe where chemicals are not used/released.  If possible can you suggest the type of contractor or trade I would use and a range as to the cost?  thank you
To keep the answer basic, if you had a 2% leak you could lose up to 60% of the potential performance of the assembly..

To give you a bit more detail, the end result of having said leak would depend on the intensity of the noise source your trying to block. So the quieter the source is the leak might be so bad but when you get into higher decibel levels it would be quite obvious the assembly is not working.

look at like driving a car down the freeway with the windows rolled up, you have some value of sound control / reduction. just reach over and crack the window an 1/8" and see what happens.

Hope this helped

Randy S.
I am considering trying to build a "semi sound proof" space.  Rather then go into exact details, I'd like to ask a VERY general question regarding sound proofing.   

If I wish to build a barrier, say for example, a wall, to split a room in half and block sound from traveling from one side to the other, what would be the impact of a small gap in such a barrier ?  For example, a 10 foot wall that goes from the floor to 1 inch from the ceiling ?

Is the physics of sound such that any such gap would make the reduction in sound from such a wall only 5%, when the full floor to ceiling wall might reduce the sound 90 % ?

I understand my terminology may not be proper, and my question very vague.
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Bedroom window facing train tracks
« Last post by Randy S on August 23, 2018, 03:28:19 PM »

67dba down to 40's is quite a bit of reduction through a window... you might have to do both to get that value.

If you do the 3/8" acrylic insert on a magnetic system you can get around 10db reduction.

I can not tell you to go against the city but if you have to get into the 40's I do not see any option besides doing the quietline and the second insert..not going to be cheap and no guarantees. If you already have a Tuscany series window you might only see 5-6 db in additional reduction.

I would have to say that the city must understand the difficulty level here based on the source.

Randy S.
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