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Just a couple more for reference
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So I hired a few builders the other day to patch up a room in order to dampen some of the sounds coming from noisy neighbors next door. The builders came from a recommendation from an old friend of mine and told me that they also did soundproofing.

Anyway, they said they would do the job for me but it would take 3 days to complete. After the first day I went to examine what they had done and it appeared that they hadn't even entered the house on day one. I got in touch with them and they said that they'd finish the job in the next 2 days so I left them to it.

When I went to examine their handy work a couple of days later I was quite taken back by the seemingly shoddy handy work that they had done. I'm not an expert in this field but it looks as though it had been rushed and corners were cut to finish the job. There were small gaps between panels with no filling between them, as well as gaps between panels and walls that also had no filling between them. Large unshapely holes smashed out of the boards seemingly by a hammer or something for the light switches to fit into and a gap near the stairwell where the skirting board used to me. Also, they forgot to screw my plug sockets tightly and securely in place afterwards. The wall now awaits plastering, but I'm having somebody else to do that job.

They claim to be the experts and say that the job is a good one and once it's plastered I'll notice the difference more, but not being an expert myself and having a bad gut feeling about the whole thing, I feel the need to reach out to an actual expert who might be able to give me their opinion on the job.

Just to add, very little if any sound difference can be noticed, and actually, it seems that more sound is being amplified through that wall now from other rooms of the house next door than it did before.

If it's of any use, I can supply a few snaps of some of the areas in question for reference.
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it could absorb noise which is remitted from the drywall into the sofa at that location, I find it difficult to think that it would be highly noticeable but its free to try. It also might help with room absorption depending on the total coverage of soft surfaces vs hard surfaces.

No way would it treat an entire wall.. Impossible.

Randy S.
760-752-3030
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Soundproofing your Condo, Townhouse or Bed & Breakfast / Re: DIY hanging of ROXUL safe'n'quiet
« Last post by Randy S on September 10, 2019, 02:40:31 PM »
I always start with the ceiling treatment as that is the main location of impact transmission.
You will have some value of flanking noise down the walls, unfortunately that value is unpredictable.
I've seen flanking as barely noticeable after the ceiling treatment and I've had it extremely noticeable other times, usually when lathe and plaster are involved or you have a structural issue before hand which does not get addressed.
As for the recording question...not that I know of and if you could find one that doesn't mean that will be your value of reduction.
Your value of reduction will come from how many principles you apply to the assembly and how well you install the materials. Devil is in the details. Mistakes are costly and can greatly hinder results.

feel free to contact me direct.

Randy S.
760-752-3030
 
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Randy, from your experience, how necessary is the wall treatment if my main purpose is to block impact noise from the unit above?

Is there an example recording somewhere on the reduction achieved with ceiling treatment? Just want to make sure that I have the right expectation.

Thanks
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It's said that putting heavy furniture (especially soft furniture) against a wall reduces the noise coming through the wall. I wondered, does this work just by blocking the sound in the area covered, say, by the sofa, or does it reduce vibrations and therefore sound transmission in the whole wall?
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Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Secure Magnetseal without Screws
« Last post by billyd on September 04, 2019, 09:45:53 PM »
Hi Randy,

Thanks for your response! I'll go with screws, as you suggest.

Cheers,
Billy
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Thanks, Randy.  I will try you by phone next week.  I apologize but you are correct... while the bedroom is on the second floor, the CMU is being built from the ground up.  So directly below my room will be a storage room (identical in size to my bedroom) surrounded by CMU.  So technically the sound won't make it from the garage and to the floor of the room.  So unless I'm missing something, the focus would be just on the walls, doors, windows and ceiling.  Thank you!
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I appreciate the thorough post but what has stopped me from a lengthy reply is that you mention this room is on a second floor!
I do not think a standard stick built structure was engineered to hold this amount of added weight.
Once my designs exceed 25lbs sqft I have to go back and consult with structural engineers to insure I can support this type of design. Using filled 8" cinder block will exceed this weight by far.

Since you seem adamant about a successful soundproof room I feel it would be best to have a discussion over the phone.

Please contact me direct at your convenience and we can discuss your approach and I can share my many years of experience with these type of rooms.

Randy S.
760-752-3030 
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Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Secure Magnetseal without Screws
« Last post by Randy S on August 29, 2019, 07:02:21 PM »
Billyd,

I do understand the website makes mention of the double sided tape, however this is only for small small windows and I do not recommend it.
Larger windows will have to be secured, so the metal frame will have to be screwed in.

We have many clients who do this method and simply fill the holes when removed.

Best Regards,

Randy S.
760-752-3030
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anything