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31
Thanks for your reply but I'm not sure I follow. I found this

"The most important law in soundproofing is the mass law.The mass law equation says that each time the mass per unit area of a single layer wall is doubled, the transmission loss is increased by about 6 dB."

By adding the second layer of drywall, wouldn't I have been applying the "Mass Law"?

32
you did not follow Mass Law, and this is why you are not seeing the reduction you anticipated.

The other potential issue is that you do not have complex structure and therefore are stuck in Mass Law.

Give me a call direct and I will be happy to thoroughly explain this so you do not make another mistake.

Randy S.
760-752-3030
33
Hello,

I'm trying to understand why all my efforts to soundproof a wall in our bedroom keep failing.

Here's the situation; Our north wall is 46ft long, 1 and half stories high (half the lower level is in the ground), no windows or doors. All our bedrooms and bathrooms run along the wall. Directly on the other side of this wall is our neighbors deck (about 5-6 feet away). When they're on the deck talking and yelling, we can hear them... all night

Originally, this wall had 5/8 drywall, 2x6 framing, fiberglass insulation, 1/2 osb, 1.5in Styrofoam, vinyl siding.

To start fixing this, I simply added a layer of 5/8 CertainTeed SilentFX drywall in our bedroom. The claim from them is that it "features a viscoelastic polymer between two specially formulated dense gypsum cores significantly improves sound attenuation and is ideal for systems requiring high STC performance." It was super heavy stuff. I installed it over the existing drywall with a gap all around the edges which I filled with acoustic sealant. This helped a little but we can still hear the neighbors talking and yelling.

I found out that the OSB  on this wall had a lot of rot due to the Styrofoam not being sealed. My thought was that the rotten OSB (lack of mass), was letting a lot of noise through, like an open door. Also, it seemed to me that Styrofoam can amplify sound (I can share some youtube video's to show what I mean). I tore down the outside of this wall, replaced all the OSB, sealed all cracks and gaps, then replaced the Styrofoam with Rockwool Comfortboard 80 (suppose to absorb sound). After doing all this... there was NO change in the amount of noise coming in. I was totally shocked.

Am I cursed? Or is there something else I've missed? Based on the STC rating of the drywall alone, I shouldn't be able to hear anyone talking normally. Yelling should be murmurs.
34
Depending on how deep the window seal is would dictate if you can use one of our black out window plugs shown on link below.

http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/windowplug.htm

Feel free to contact me direct.

Randy S.
760-752-3030
35
Sound Control if you're Renting - Apartments, Condo, ETC / Large City Windows
« Last post by Leoul on May 01, 2018, 08:29:32 AM »
Hello there. Great site you have here, and I'd love the help of your expertise.

I'm in a brand new apartment on the second floor, right next to a busy street. The construction of the unit is actually quite good; it has concrete walls and triple pane windows, but it's not enough for the bedrooms. As far as I can tell the sound is primarily getting through the windows. We also want to block any outside light coming into these windows, so I'm not constrained to see-through solutions.

The window is 6.5' x 6.5'. Everything I've read about soundproofing suggests adding multiple layers of mass of different materials to help filter various frequencies. My current idea is to get a large sheet of plywood, attach a layer of mass loaded vinyl, and a layer of dense foam. I'm looking for advice if there is possibly a better solution or perhaps how to mount this monstrosity. Even just a single layer of MLV at this size sounds like it will be around 40 lbs per window which seems like it would be hard to secure in place. Also not sure how to prevent the edges from leaking sound- most recommendations I've seen is to use caulk or something similar, but I'm hesitant to do so as it will be difficult to restore when I move out.

These are my constraints: I'm allowed to put holes in the wall. Whatever I hang in the window has to be a solid neutral color from the outside. I need to be able to restore the unit back to the relative condition from when I moved in. The unit is brand new, so they will probably be fairly nitpicky.

Thanks for your time. Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated.
36
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Advice for larger window cavities
« Last post by Randy S on April 20, 2018, 04:22:52 PM »
That will work fine, recess the frame back enough so that the acrylic will rest on the sill.

shown here second diagram
http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/magnetseal_windows.htm


Randy S.
37
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Advice for larger window cavities
« Last post by BradA on April 20, 2018, 09:16:56 AM »
Thanks for your reply Randy, unfortunately I don't have a ledge to work with.



That image shows the bottom right corner of my window sill, all of them in the house are like this.  So I guess I either need build a shelf or recess the sheet which would lose some of that valuable air pocket space.  Any suggestions in your opinion on the best way to go about it?
38
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Advice for larger window cavities
« Last post by Randy S on April 19, 2018, 03:54:58 PM »
The weight of the acrylic must rest on a sill or lip of the window box. The magnetic tape is to create the seal only (12lb pull).
Dogs barking and traffic noise I always recommend 3/8" and with your 4" air gap you will receive a very noticeable reduction.

Randy S.
760-752-3030
39
Soundproofing at the source will always deliver the best reduction.

Flooring systems are normally reviewed in detail prior to system recommendations. The systems require enough space to raise the new floated floor anywhere from 1 1/8" to 2.5" lift before final flooring.
you can see some of the decouplers here on this page.
http://www.supersoundproofingsales.com/Flooring/products/27/

It would best just to reach me direct when you have some time to discuss the particulars that way the right system can be recommended.

Randy S.
760-752-3030
randy@soundproofing.org
40
Randy -

Thank you very much for your reply. I am quite familiar with your recommendations on how to decouple a ceiling as I have read quite a few of your posts. However, I have not found anything regarding your recommendation (process & products) for decoupling the floor. Would you mind either pointing me to a post or giving me a quick rundown on how to achieve floor decoupling.

Also, which do you think would be more effective in reducing impact noise - floor decouple or ceiling - if you HAD to choose.

Thank you sir!!
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