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I am in the process of renovating a small single family home in a residential neighborhood next to a road that is generally very quiet. But every hour so... and particularly very late at night... the most obnoxiously loud motorcycles (street and dirt bikes) and race cars go flying by.  They often ride in large groups to visit a popular city lights viewing platform up the road. The noise from their highly modified exhaust systems is absolutely deafening and easily approaches 110+ DB at my front door (the road is about 20 feet away from my front door).  The neighborhood has been petitioning the city to address the problem but our city is useless so I am taking matters into my own hands. 

To exacerbate matters, I suffer from a sleeping disorder and anxiety. If I am ever waken in the middle of the night, I am incapable of going back to sleep.  So if I am woken at 1 a.m. by an obnoxious motorcyclist, I will not sleep one second for the remainder of the night.   I decided it's impractical to soundproof the entire home and the noise doesn't really bother me too much as long as I'm not trying to sleep.  So I am only going to focus on extreme soundproofing measures for one single bedroom (it is just myself and my wife in the house). 

A couple things to note - I have no budget.  I will spend $50K on a 11 x 14' room to get restful sleep if I have to but I do want the money to be spent wisely and to achieve the ultimate soundproof room.   The room is not large - about 150 SF and I really only need to make this area completely soundproof. 

I am assuming that going with grout-filled CMU brick is the best route.  With either wood siding or EIFS system on the exterior.  On the interior, I plan to paint the brick then put one layer of 5/8" drywall over the brick, one layer of green glue and then one additional layer of 5/8" drywall. 

To keep the room as sound proof as possible, I am only installing one window for egress purposes (to meet code). I plan to go with two laminated windows stacked on top of each other.  So basically two independent windows, one on top of each other with about 3" of airspace between each window.   Each of the two windows will consist of one sheet of laminated glass with a PVB interlayer between two sheets of plate glass.  I am not sure if I will go with an awning, slider or single hung window yet.  Any suggestions on the type of window would be appreciated. 

I will have two individual solid core wood doors with rubber sweep beneath to access the living room (which will not be soundproofed like my bedroom).  The doors will be separated with a 4' x 4' hallway space.  I am not sure how much noise will come through the exterior wall, into the living room and ultimately through my bedroom doors... but I figured it wouldn't hurt to put two doors on top of each other. 

The bedroom is on the second floor with a garage below.  So I will have to soundproof the floor between my bedroom and garage as well because noise will come through the garage door (garage doors are lousy for sound insulation).  I am assuming I can simply pour concrete onto a pan that sits over my floor.  This would force me to build a step up into the bedroom which I am OK with.  I am not sure if pouring concrete on the floor is overkill but I am worried that a lot of noise will come through the garage door and then the bedroom floor.  Maybe several layers of drywall in the garage plus resilient channel plus insulation may do the trick but I am not sure. 

I am not sure how to tackle the ceiling but I am thinking of using hanger plates and running 2x8" rafters (so the rafters attach to the side of the CMU wall as opposed to resting on top) and then pouring concrete into a metal pan that sits over these rafters.  The concrete will run continuously across the entire ceiling with no opening or air gaps.  I would then put drywall over the pan below.  I can also run resilient channel over the metal pan to mount the drywall. 

In order to get the level soundproofing I need for the space, I am basically building a bomb shelter.  But I want to make sure what I ultimately build is more of a quiet shelter vs a bomb shelter. 

Does the above build scenario sound like I will be able to completely isolate myself from the noise outside?  The goal is to take the loudest bike you ever heard into a faint whisper inside the room.  I know that sounds impossible but I will do my best to get there.  Again, I am only looking to sound proof an area about 11 x 14'.  Not a huge space. 

I am assuming mass is more critical based on the type of noise I am trying to isolate.  But I am open to building a thicker wall with air space if that is a better way to go.  Any feedback is much appreciated and thank you in advance for any responses!
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Secure Magnetseal without Screws
« Last post by billyd on August 27, 2019, 04:30:06 PM »
Hi everyone,

First of all, thanks to everyone who contributes to this website and forum, it has been so helpful!

My partner and I were about to buy a well-known interior window system for our bedroom, mainly to help with street traffic noise and occasional airplanes overhead. As all of you probably know, these custom-made solutions can be quite expensive, especially if you have a large sq footage of windows (we do). The price tag for this single room is going to be close to $2k. That's tough to stomach!

So I've been looking into the Magnetseal system which has been discussed in great detail on this forum. We have space for a 4 in air gap pretty easily. I would definitely use the Magnetseal system if I could be fairly certain that I wouldn't destroy/damage my window frames in the process (we will not be in this house forever). For this reason, I'd rather not use screws for the steel mounting frame. And if I'm going with a double sided tape or other adhesive, I'd like to use one that's been used effectively in the past.

To put it simply: does anyone have a recommendation for a good double-sided tape or other adhesive to use for the steel mounting frame? I obviously want one that holds well but hopefully doesn't pull up anything more than a bit of paint on removal.

Thank you in advance.

The second picture is a double wall construction and therefore the dead vent enclosure is not coupling the double frame system. It would be any hard pipe going through the double wall that would cause that.
Just make sure you dont couple the vent tube to the walls inside the room. leave a 1/4" gap around and fill with acoustic caulking.

Randy S.
Hi there,

This is my first post in the forum. Thanks for reading. My wife and I recently moved into a duplex with a detached garage. I hired a contractor to build a soundproof room within that space. He used H-Bar clips, double 5/8" drywall with green glue, etc. He has now finished the job and there is excellent soundproofing, but there is no ventilation to the room. I would like to add a vent system and am wondering the best way to go about it.

The room before soundproofing was 10'x20'. The soundproofed space is about 9' x 13' now and the remainder is part of a storage space (approx 6'). I think I would like to vent to the storage space. I was reading an article on and found this image.

It's the second image down the page.

My question is, do you think that creating 2 holes in the wall (intake and exhaust) with dead vent mufflers is the way to go? It seems like it would be connecting my soundproofed walls to the storage space, and maybe a bit counter-productive?

I'm open to any thoughts and suggestions.


Soundproofing your Condo, Townhouse or Bed & Breakfast / Re: DIY hanging of ROXUL safe'n'quiet
« Last post by Randy S on August 21, 2019, 03:10:12 PM »
if your doing this for room absorption and reflection it will work.
BUT, if your doing this to reduce impact / footfall noise it will do very little if anything.
You would need to decouple using clip and channel or double joist system.

Randy S.
I'm having problem with noises from neighbors upstairs. Getting a proper room in room solution is kinda expensive (quoted upward $20k for ceiling and walls, without noise clips). So I'm thinking to DIY hanging rockwool panel or sticking them to the ceiling somehow. Does anyone have experience with this kind of DIY? What kind of reduction is possible? I'm thinking to start with a layer of 2 inches and adding another layer if that is not enough.
Hi All,

Wondering if I can get some input on reducing sound transmission. I live in an area where single family homes are connected. We don't technically share walls with adjacent neighbors, but the houses are basically touching if that makes sense. We're renovating at the moment and I'd like to limit as much noise transfer as I can from my neighbors in our open living room/dining room/kitchen area (on the second floor with garage directly underneath). We don't have the budget to treat every surface throughout the house (ceilings and floors).

This is what I'm working with:

I'm planning on treating the walls marked in red with rsic clips, hat channels, rockwool safe & sound, double dry wall and green glue. 
-Is it worth going the extra mile with the rsic-clips knowing that there'll be flanking noise through the untreated ceiling and floor?
-I've read that rockwool safe & sound is not measurably better than standard fiberglass insulation. Should I not bother with this either?

Thanks in advance for the input.
thanks. seems i will make more accurate measurements and post in "Soundproofing Windows and Doors".

Adding a soundproof curtain might get you a couple db change at best.. Adding the second window with the greatest air gap between the two will get you far more reduction.
At 2-3" gap you could see 10+ db reduction.

Randy S.
Adding a soundproof curtain might get you a couple db change at best.. Adding the second window with the greatest air gap between the two will get you far more reduction.
At 2-3" gap you could see 10+ db reduction.

Randy S.
recently moved into high-rise luxury building in heavy traffic center. my current bedroom facing street, floor to ceiling sound-proof window. With window open, around 90 db. With window closed, reduced to 70 db.
We would like to further reduce bedroom sound to 60 db or 50 db if possible. should we buy sound proof curtain or add another sound proof window?
thanks for the help!
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