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Other Soundproofing Questions / Trumpet room in gaeage
« Last post by Lqbanotxano on August 02, 2019, 01:06:09 AM »
My wife says that I “can’t play that infernal instrument in the garage any more” Mind you, I got all the doors locked & I’m dying from 100 degrees temperatures. Big deal I started playing the trumpet at 71years old!  I got to build a sound reduction room.

I am building a 6’-6”X10’ room in the back corner of my garage. I will be using two existing walls and building two new walls. The existing walls are wood studs with Hardy outside, fiberglass insulation and 5/8 Sheetrock. There will be no windows & 1 door. The air conditioner is a portable unit inside the room & vented up behind a wall ...vent is insulated. The 2 new walls are metal studs with 5/8 Sheetrock outside, fiberglass insulation then 2 layers of 5/8 sheetrock with GG in between. Sheetrock installation will be done with proper methods & sound insulating sealant. Electrical switches & plugs are all externally mounted & sealed. Ceiling same as outside walls. Floor will be carpeted.


1. I was going to add GG & 1 more 5/8 Sheetrock to the existing stud walls & this OK/sufficient?

2. The door is hollow...I was going to add 1/2 Sheetrock wrapped with a moving blanket to both sides
      (This will be done me).  Of course the door sills, soffit & jambs will be sealed. Is this
going to quiet the door sufficiently?

3. How can I do a wall mounted desk 2’X4’ between 3 walls. I plan for the desk top to be granite. How do I support the granite. I have metal sq tubing & can weld. Could I put 2 parallel 3/4x3/4 tubes screwed to the wood studs...then put GG on the sq tubing...then put the granite on the GG? Also...should I keep the granite from touching the walls? I have to make a stand alone desk?

4.  Would some large 48”X72” 1/2” plywood panels covered with moving blankets, add any noice reduction? (Again, this will be done nicely)

Thanks in advance....please answer & take pity on a picked on by his wife 71 year old fart.
Building a Sound Control room and a place for My Band to practice in! / Re: Garage conversion advice
« Last post by Randy S on August 01, 2019, 04:16:07 PM »
You have got a lot of potential with this garage. As for your budget, well you can try to get close to the 5k mark but I think you will be spending the most money on the ceiling system in order to make it match the mass of the cinder block walls.

I have done many builds like this and I am currently doing a commercial space almost exact as this one.
It would best to have you give me a call direct so we can discuss particulars and how to focus your efforts in the right places to make it a feasible project.

Randy S.
I have an opportunity to convert my detached garage to a possible practice space. I play bass guitar so low end soundproofing is crucial.

Unfortunately I have a budget $2,000-5,000. There is a cottage house about 20 ft from the garage :(
I understand that building an airtight room within a room is the best way to soundproof.

My question is, is it worth it to spend up to $5,000 for all the extra materials/work that goes into properly soundproofing? Especially when there's a cottage house (that people live in) just 20 feet away? I'm considering either decoupling drywall clips with 1/2" drywall, or I saw a youtube video of a guy building another brick room within a garage. I don't know whether to do something with the floor. I'm also concerned with the ventilation, AC in the summer, the door, and the large windows.

I feel like soundproofing is one of those things where if you're not gonna do it right, why bother? Any advice? Thanks!

About the garage (see pics):
407 sq foot
Cinderblock walls
2 garage doors (will be replaced w cinderblocks)
4 windows (will replace 2 windows w cinderblocks, possibly all 4)
1 door
built on a concrete slab

here's a gallery of pics of my garage
We are pacific standard time and I will be in on Friday 8:00 am to 1:00 pm

Randy S.
Hi, thanks a lot. Really appreciate your help. I will give you a call Friday. Can you specify your timezone and when it might be best to reach you?

Thank you.
single partition is a single wall out of the entire room, since you are doing room with in a room you should have no flanking issue.

and if your doing that amount of space for your double frame construction you should be fine.

after your first layers are on test it and see where you land..

There are a few details that you should be addressing and for that it would be best to call me direct.

Randy S.
Hi Randy, sorry for the tardy reply. I got all sucked into work. When you see “single partition “, you mean one airspace between the two walls, right? With the top and bottom plates on a double wall decoupled (so no connection at all except via concrete floor both frames stand on), would there still be any flanking if you filled a third of the airspace with batting?

Our project is, indeed, to build a box within a box, within a hangar that has a 1-foot thick concrete floor. Thus far we haven’t planned on adding another layer of drywall (5/8”) other than at either end of the double stud frame (which will total 1 foot thick). We figured that thickness, with decoupling, 1/3 airspace and the rest rockwool would be enough for an STC of about 50.

Think we’re off? What we were thinking was that, if we don’t quite get the soundproofing we need from this we’d add another layer of 5/8 drywall with green glue between on the outside (or should we rather do inside?) walls. The goal, incidentally, is to keep noise out rather than in.

Stud wall design ...... " did you decouple or not "
double wall construction in any format can still create a flank due to a single partition project.
Flanking is any path around the soundproof wall, you would have to create room within a room (RWAR) to avoid flanking.

As for staggered stud vs double stud is simply top and bottom plate shared or not shared. if you split the base and top plates you have built double frame. I do see value in stud spacing 16"OC vs 24" OC but other then that your decoupled or coupled.

Normally if I am doing a double frame for a single partition I use stud wall isolation brackets to avoid a flank from the new frame.

Hope this helps.
feel free to call me direct anytime.

Randy S.
Hi, I recently ran into a photo that showed a staggered-stud wall, but with a split sill (base) plate. This got me thinking, wouldn't a set up like this be even better than a double-stud wall with facing studs (as they're usually presented)? Even if the studs are decoupled, they're close and this suggests more flanking might occur than if the studs were staggered, all other factors being the same (wall depth, surfaces, insulation etc.)

Look forward to input. Thank you!
Hi Randy, thanks for the clear and clearly well-informed reply. Got it!

I'm about to post another question about the possible superior merits of a staggered-stud wall with a split sill, compared to a double-stud wall. I hope to hear from you on this too.

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