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41
Thanks, that helps. I'd like to try to get a better sense of what losing 60% means, or for that matter, how much performance I might have gotten in the ideal case. Right now, every footfall sounds like someone is hammering above me. (Like, REALLY loud--I think it's actually getting amplified somehow.) Every word someone says sounds like they're in the room with me. Let's say I put in 3" of rock wool, build the boxes, and put two layers of drywall with green glue. How do the footfalls and the voices sound now? Suppose that I lose 60% of that performance--how about now?
42
if you do not build the boxes you will be at 2% - 5% leak and you could lose up to 60% of your potential performance of the ceiling system.

Randy S.
43
Hi Randy,

This project is already above our budget, so building boxes on top of everything else is just not going to be in the cards. Prefab QuietBoxes are $60 and would require customization and installation, so we're talking probably another $1200 or $1500, which we don't have. Having someone custom cut a bunch of drywall, put green glue between the layers, and caulk them together has to cost even more than that. Is the double layer of drywall with GG a waste of money without the boxes?

Thanks,
David
44
Build boxes for each can light and caulk them. make the box the exact same assembly as the ceiling so if you are doing double drywall with green glue then the box is double drywall and green glue.
same with your plumbing access hatch.

Randy S.
45
Our 1923 Colonial has an insane amount of noise communication. My wife was talking to a plumber in the basement yesterday, and I could hear it in the bedroom two floors away.

I use that basement as an office, and we are in the middle of a renovation. I have been thinking about putting in rock wool insulation and then putting up a double layer of drywall with green glue in between. My understanding is that, as an elastomer, the green glue should attenuate some of the kinetic energy coming through the studs, whereas the rock wool should help to limit the communication of airborne noise.

Now, here's the problem: the ceiling is barely 7 feet, so we just can't do track lighting. We already have wall lighting and it isn't enough, because there's no natural light. Recessed lighting is simply unavoidable. We also have to cut out 1 sq foot for a plumbing access.

Given the fact that we will be putting a bunch of holes in the ceiling, is there any point to the extra cost associated with the double layer of drywall and the green glue? Or will all the sound just come through those openings, making noise attenuation a hopeless goal?
46
you need to toenail screw into joist from below. Use the right size screws.

Randy S.
47
Is the basement poured concrete or cinder block?
if so the ceiling is where you need to focus most of your effort, if not I promise your walls will have little effect on what your neighbors hear.

I have done this mistake before, look at it like shaking a soda can up and popping the top..all the sound will go up and since that will be the area of least resistance they will hear your noise.

decoupling and mass will be the primary factors on this build.
speed of sound through air is 1129 fps but through wood framing is 13,000 fps

Why dont you give me a call direct and we can discuss.

Best Regards,

Randy S.
760-752-3030
48
 I live in a condo with neighbors above me who have carpeting and underlayment but I still continue to hear loud squeaking noise when they step on certain parts of the subfloor making me think the subfloor has separated from the joists. Unfortunately there is no way for me to easily secure the subfloor back to the joist from their side because there is a layer of soft concrete above the plywood subfloor. Is there a way from my side above my ceiling drywall to minimize this effect my pulling and securing the subfloor to the joist from beneath. Something that would minimize the up and down effect from compression from foot fall?
49
Hey all! First post here. I'm sorry if I'm not adhering to any rules I may have missed.

I'm looking at DIY'ing (inexpensively) soundproofing for a condo basement in Canada. I'm familiar with the basic concepts of soundproofing (mass=blocker, resonance is bad, viscoelasticity, etc), but need advice here.

Basically, I have adjoined neighbors to the east and west. I'm planning on making the basement a theater room (on a budget, since we both work part-time to support ourselves in volunteer work) soundproofing the basement walls against my neighbors to at least provide some level of sound dampening. Not the ceiling, since I won't be able to get access up there without major renovations, and I'm hoping the fact it'd need to travel through additional walls (the ceiling, floor, and then neighboring walls) will help avoid the need to touch the ceiling. The east wall is a straight 8' by about 10-12' stretch. Along the west wall has my mechanical room - this is basically a room within the basement, and this allows me currently to access the inside of that wall to insulate. I can also add drywall to the walls INSIDE the mechanical room since there isn't any as of yet. Total stretch would be about 14'-16', excluding the mechanical room?

Basically, I'm down to 3 options. I'm looking for best "bang for your buck". I'd like to watch Interstellar, for example, at reasonable volumes with a proper soundsetup without worrying about my elderly neighbors in their upstairs bedroom. I want to mitigate as best as I can.

1. Tear down the east wall, add insulation (planning to use Rockwool), and replace with new drywall. Instead of 1/2 drywall ($12/sheet) or "soundproofing" drywall with a viscoelastic layer ($60/sheet)", I'm planning to use 5/8 Type X (firecode) drywall ($17/sheet), which is 100lb a sheet vs 40lb a sheet for regular drywall. The drywall will be well over 1lb/ft. Then insulate the back of the west wall with Rockwool. Leave the west wall itself as is. Not sure if there's resilient channel?

2. Tear down both the east and west walls, add Rockwool, and replace both walls with Type X drywall.

3. Leave the existing walls and add a new layer of drywall to both the east and west sides, possibly with MLV in between (most expensive by far, $241/100sqft from a local supplier where I pickup, so probably $500+ just in MLV). I would have no idea how to do this, or what hardware to use for spacing the drywall.

I'm not familiar with "green glue" or any other specialty building products for sound reduction. My expertise is in auto sound reduction, which isn't really "expert" by any means. What's my best option here...?

The existing flooring is carpet, and I'm planning on redoing the floor with hardwood as well. So if adding another drywall layer is best, how should I do the flooring...? First? Doing the flooring first might be slightly problematic since we have a painter already working through the house, I'd like to get this done before he gets to the basement (within a couple of weeks), and this will be a job I'm working on almost entirely in my off-time (evenings).
50
I really enjoy these basement builds, they make for great rooms. With that being said you have a great opportunity to do this right by avoiding some serious mistakes.
Yes your bricks in one of the stud walls is a great idea but you would have to seal them in with mortar for full effect.
For this build you will need mass loaded vinyl and some other products to make the ceiling system reach a high STC rating.
You also need to make sure the inner frame does not touch the ceiling assembly.

Give me a call direct and i will go over a few key tips so you avoid negating your efforts.

Randy S.
760-752-3030
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