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Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Secondary Glazing Alternate Framing? Compression Fit?
« Last post by Potato on March 07, 2018, 05:46:30 PM »
Randy, thank you! I really appreciate the advice.

What material and thickness would you recommend for the panels? I was originally looking at custom cuts of plexiglass acrylic sheets 1/4" myself, but not certain on best material for price/effectiveness.

The more I look into this the more the magnet seal seems to be the way to go. The compression has faults like you said and I'll get a better gap with the magnets.

I'm thinking of maybe using just double sided magnetic tape on the left and top that just tapes to frame, placed in the center of the very outer part of the frame. Then for the bottom sill maybe go with an inverted piece of the L frame there, so only screws there. Would need to make sure that bottom frame is lined up flush for the seal. I'd go with the metal frame all the way around if there was a way I could secure it without screws/nails.

My profile is setup now to receive emails, you can email me directly other ideas if you would like.

Hi Potato,

Ok, a few things I see which validates your concern.
1) the magnetic system needs a steel perimeter to create the seal and using our system would require you to use the L-frame as corner pieces for the 2 sides and top. the bottom frame would need to be inverted allowing the acrylic to rest on the sill and magnetize to the face of to inverted L-frame. (flush mount for max air gap) and you would have to screw in the L-frame.
This is important because you need to achieve the greatest air gap possible to make this cost effective.

The solution for soundproofing windows is "mass / gap / mass"  how you get there can be a number of ways but in the end the airtight seal, air space and mass is the key.

The problem with the other product you mention indow window only uses max 1/4" acrylic which in most cases is not enough mass for a quality reduction based on the cost. The rubber tube around the perimeter is a weak spot in the system.
The other side of the coin is the air gap, 1" is not ideal normally I recommend 2" or greater.

If you want to do this with a compression seal you need a neoprene foam or EDPM seal that is solid and not hollow and figure out how to attach it to the acrylic. This is the problem we ran into when we first designed this system back in 1997..trying to keep cost down the foam seal ended up needing a channel(frame) to keep it in place when compressed in the window. this brought the cost up more then we wanted. Just gluing it was only feasible if you where not removing the insert and like indow would be a weak spot in the system.

I have another method to attach this system but you will need to call me direct.

Randy S.

Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Secondary Glazing Alternate Framing? Compression Fit?
« Last post by Potato on March 07, 2018, 02:50:51 PM »
adding width image
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Secondary Glazing Alternate Framing? Compression Fit?
« Last post by Potato on March 07, 2018, 02:46:41 PM »
Hello All,

I've been scouring the internet for DIY double glazing ideas, much like many people here, to help with my noise problem from a nearby road.

I recently moved into a great a new apartment with one drawback, it is very close to a busy road and has A LOT of windows. I've attached a few pictures of the windows frame and height/width/depth on the the inner lip. For perspective, there are 4 windows like this in the living room and 4 in the bedroom. You can see in the image of the frame the old sunroom/front porch and how close the road is.

Since this is an apartment, I'm trying to decide on the least damaging option to the frames (i.e. no screws if possible) and of course the cheapest.

So I'm not sure I like the idea of screwing in frames to mount them. I could just use magnetic strips... but i'm not sure if I should mount them on the plastic window border within the 1 inch depth on the image... or on the far outside of the frames. If I use the outside of the frame it's more of a gap but that leaves me with nowhere to place a magnet on the bottom. I also have some concern on how hard it is to remove that magnetic tape from a wooden frame?

I really like the "compression" fit tubing on the professional pre-built panels. (The one that comes up in Every search, fits intooo the window, don't want to name it specifically in case of any terms issues).  But they are Very expensive. I can't find any DIY instructions on the type of tubing to line the glass with to achieve that same effect though. All the DIY instructions are using the magnets.

I'm hoping for ideas on the tubing to use to achieve the compression fit, or your best ideas on mounting with magnetic strips to these frames?

before you buy anything else, move the machine to a exterior load bearing wall and reassess.

if that doesn't work you would need to build a decoupled platform for it to go on.
For this you would need to contact me direct.

Randy S.
Wrapping the pipes in mass loaded vinyl w/closed cell foam will solve the pipe issue and acoustic caulking the gap around the pipe where it penetrates the ceiling.
As for the impact noise from above would require drywall removal and a clip and channel system would need to be installed followed by double 5/8" drywall.

Randy S.
Hi there,

I looked through some of the treadmill conversations in this forum before but am hoping someone here can help with the particular issues I am having..

I live in a studio in a block of 12 apartments. I have a foldable ~65 lb treadmill I use for walking and running. It's on wood floors. Right now it's about a foot and a half from the hallway wall (a bookshelf between) with a closet behind it.

I bought these and put them on top of an exercise mat in a double layer to support the treadmill's front base and it's two back feet. They lessen vibration fantastically in the house. But, I think because of the closet right next to the hallway, there's still vibration in the hallway stairwell, and a surprising lot of it. It's driving my neighbor across the hall crazy. I thought we would be okay with neighbor complaints bc we were on the ground floor :(

Is there a way to improve the vibration absorption beneath the treadmill? Or is the answer to improve the vibration absorption of the closet (which has a door, but a flimsy one with a mirror)? I'm going to move it to another wall and hope it helps, but I'm a little worried since the studio is so small. Is moving it 7 feet away to another, outer facing wall really going to help? And if it does, will it bother our upstairs neighbors?

Thanks for any help you have!
Hello everyone I need help soundproofing my pipes and ceiling.  I need advice on how I should go upon this. I was thinking buying roxul to fill in the hole and then installing Sheetrock onto the ceiling in order to block out the noise whenever my neighbors walk and open doors. Please I am looking for the most effective way to soundproof this situation
Looking for some help... I live .30 miles from a major road. The road has 2 lanes in each direction with cars going 45mph. My house is at the end of a dead end on a street that is about 20-30 ft above the major road. I bring up elevation because I’m not sure if elevation has anything to do with the increase in noise i hear at my house. When I walk down the hill towards the major road and am on streets that are level in elevation with the road, the noise is not nearly as bad even though it’s much closer to the source. Can you please help me understand why I’m hearing the noise louder at my house than when I’m closer to The source and what I can do to make the sound less noticeable and tolerable. Please help as I am starting to go crazy with the noise!
I would try soundproofing foam, sound absorbing foam, or soundproofing panels, as these absorb echo, thus limits the sound.  ;D
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