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91
Thnks, I made a mistake by buying the metal doors, they are already hung, the good thing about the metal doors are they come with a well sealed jamb and threshold.

I have 2 options, which would you recommend:

1 - build up the metal door to match the wall with MLV and 2 sheets of 5/8 drywall with green glue ?

2 - replace the metal door with a solid wood door ? (If I can find one the exact size)

92
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Help soundproofing a metal utility door
« Last post by Randy S on April 09, 2019, 03:09:49 PM »
adding a second does make a huge improvement as well.

Randy S.
760-752-3030
93
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Help soundproofing a metal utility door
« Last post by Randy S on April 09, 2019, 03:03:04 PM »
Im not a fan of metal doors because of the foam or fiber fill..

but in order to make the door achieve good reduction you need to make it as heavy as the walls or heavier (lbs per sqft.) real top notch soundproof door come in around 500 lbs. (25lbs sqft)
I have added everything from MLV to lead sheet, even cement board..

Randy S.

94
Thanks Randy, Should I add more layers ? Drywall ? Or perhaps a second door ? The metal door is filled with foam, do you know these types of doors ? Are they any good for soundproofing or should I replace it ? My objective is to have the door block as much sound as the wall ...
95
to decouple or roll the dice on durometer????

the question of the century...

depending on where you have the room to do one of these applications it would entail losing another 1 1/2" for best reduction or 1/2" for better reduction then you have.

Rick is correct on the channel statement for decoupling but you have applied "MASS LAW" successfully and you would have to decouple then put it back... :(
 in order to reload that amount of mass you would need clip and channel not RC channel as it is not recommended for more then 2 layers of drywall.

as for you attempt upstairs you can pull it all back up except for the cement board layer and tile and install a decoupled floating sublfoor on top ( 2" lift) and this would also prevent flanking impact around a decoupled ceiling below.
I like decoupling over durometer as you have broken the amount of pathways to the original subfloor and used a puck system with a 50-60 durometer ..as apposed to covering the entire floor again only relying on durometer.

Space becomes my only battle on the flooring systems.

Feel free to reach out and call me direct.

Randy S.
96
Soundproofing your Condo, Townhouse or Bed & Breakfast / Re: CEILING SOUNDPROOFING
« Last post by Randy S on April 08, 2019, 05:28:20 PM »
your question.
"I'm not convinced of that. The ceiling is not a hard mount, it's now floating on the RC channel. The tape on the wall is like anything else attached to the wall.

Tape is flexible, that's why seams/angles are tapped. Fill angles/seams with mud and and it cracks very quickly (because of movement).

You might be right but I'm skeptical taping the ceiling after proper installation (with aprox 1/4" gap on the perimeter with acoustic non-harding calk) will increase sound transmission.  I'll be caulking the perimeter after the first layer of 5/8" rock and caulk again after the 2nd layer."

my response.
RC 1 is a float and flexible, you should be able to push up in the middle of that ceiling a tad bit.
RC 2 is not
Clip and channel is not .

I do have one contractor that has been using that yellow fiber tape and caulking for his corners for 20+  and it has worked for him.. but normally contractors new to this do not seem to have the skill to finish it well.

I like your views and interest in this.
we should chat on the phone sometime.

Randy S.
760-752-3030
97
Soundproofing your Condo, Townhouse or Bed & Breakfast / Re: CEILING SOUNDPROOFING
« Last post by Randy S on April 08, 2019, 05:21:12 PM »
ok lets go through these one by one..

1.  "As a general rule, hat channels are significantly inferior to resilient channels since they are not free to move and achieve dissipation of the sound energy "
 Answer: only if you are not using isolation clips as we suggest. We use isomax clips from Kinetics and they are a rubber clips and allows us to separate them up to 4' apart which is far less contact points that resilient channel does. Also these systems allow us to load far more weight which is key to top noise reductions.
2. Yes, we have been saying this for 20 years..the problem I have run into with contractors and clients alike is space space space...they do not like losing ceiling height and believe me 5/8" does make a difference in the eyes of the client. as for your hole sizes ...as big as you can and as many as you can...
But I like your interest in this topic so I will share a tidbit, if your just addressing airborne sound I have had to design systems with sheer wall in play forcing the triple leaf and have been successful by changing the way the center leaf reacts by dramatically altering its mass and adding dampening to the center leaf.
3. Why not tape after caulking? The thin layer of drywall mud + tape + finish drywall mud won't make more of a hard surface than paint. You'll end up with a far better looking angle. That's how I've been finishing angles since 1978 (when we didn't have good acoustic calk). It's possible my approach compromised STC, but I haven't seen any evidence to suggest that.
Answer. Depending on location acoustic caulk expands and contracts, coupled with floor defection has caused the corners to crack on many of my projects in the beginning. it could be caused from a number of variables from drywall crew, size of gaps, temperature changes to even floor deflection.
after enough times dealing with that complaint I gave up on saying they could. that recommendation will not come from me :)
4.
The ceiling I have planned has a bed room wall covering the ceiling joist. In the bed room and on the other side of the wall the RC channel would need to be cantilevered almost 16" (5" is the max cantilever).  I think I can solve that problem with the AERO-SUPPORT (AS-1) clip
Answer.  We do not recommend the aero clip for ceilings.. we have done it a couple times..you have to put a screw through the channel into the clip to secure it from coming out of the clip.

Randy S.
98
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Help soundproofing a metal utility door
« Last post by Randy S on April 08, 2019, 04:57:19 PM »
you can use contact cement or construction adhesive complete coverage (do not spot glue)
then add a screw and washer in each corner.

Randy S.
99
Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Help soundproofing a metal utility door
« Last post by Loud Music Maker on April 07, 2019, 02:05:48 PM »
Hi, I soundproofed a wall with rock wool, MLV, 2 sheets af 5/8 drywall with green glue between, roofing tape around the electrical boxes, sealed everywhere with acoustic sealant, it works pretty good but the metal utility door hung on one end of the wall is transmitting sound, the door is sealed very well it’s the actual metal part of the door that is the problem, I need to muffle the metal, I have a left over piece of MLV that would cover the door perfectly, I’m looking for advice how to attach the MLV to the door and any other tips.
Thanks,
Rob
100
Soundproofing your Condo, Townhouse or Bed & Breakfast / Re: CEILING SOUNDPROOFING
« Last post by Rick on April 06, 2019, 11:14:05 PM »
Randy S wrote in http://supersoundproofing.com/forum/index.php/topic,4118.0.html
Quote
Mud and tape on the perimeter just created a hard mount around the perimeter..drum head..lose in middle tight around perimeter.

I'm not convinced of that. The ceiling is not a hard mount, it's now floating on the RC channel. The tape on the wall is like anything else attached to the wall.

Tape is flexible, that's why seams/angles are tapped. Fill angles/seams with mud and and it cracks very quickly (because of movement).

You might be right but I'm skeptical taping the ceiling after proper installation (with aprox 1/4" gap on the perimeter with acoustic non-harding calk) will increase sound transmission.  I'll be caulking the perimeter after the first layer of 5/8" rock and caulk again after the 2nd layer.

I'm OK with doing no tape on my ground level if that results in an audible improvement.
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