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I'm not sure if double frame construction or single frame, but I assume only single frame given how cheap the build of this unit is overall.

Bedroom 1 would still be an issue with my proposal, but i've pretty much abandoned this as just a storage room now. My only goal is to make a much quieter living room and Bedroom 2.

I'm actually in Australia, so calling you would be difficult.

Would you be able to give any general advice on this forum about sound proofing materials for inside wall or anything I should keep in mind when attaching wall to existing floor/ceiling etc? maybe some extra sound dampening matterial for the joins etc ?

Thanks for your time.






2
Hello again, So I have another idea: I found a very heavy fire door at my local salvage place and am thinking of buying it ($100) and using it as a second door, I don’t have room for the whole door to swing open so I’m thinking of cutting it in half and make 2 latching half doors with a lot of weather stripping and sealent, maybe even add MLV and perhaps rock wool in the gap if necessary, problem is the door is so heavy I can’t manage it myself, not sure even 2 people could handle it, do you have any advise for dealing with the weight of these doors ?
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Hi all,

I've posted before about sound issues and now I'm about to have some more.  I know most of you will tell me to move but my lease isn't up till November so I'm trying to make the best of things until then.  I'm going to attach a floorplan for my apartment with some numbers on it, then tell you about some issues I'm facing.

Here is the floorplan.



SLEEPING

My first and probably most important issue is getting decent sleep here.  I have re-positioned my bed many times but haven't figured out an ideal way to handle some sound issues. 

Referring to the image above, at point 1 I currently have my bed positioned here.  The problem is on the other side of that wall is a sliding closet door from another apartment.  The thump from that door closing has woken me up many times - as well as another door closing not too far away.  For the last year and a half, there has been no neighbor there so it has been wonderful, but new neighbors are moving in soon so I am coming up with a plan.

At point 2 on the image is another place I can position the bed, such as in the actual graphics, which I have tried before.  The problem here is that I can hear the "thumps" of cabinets closing from the kitchen from the neighbor downstairs.  So yes, another 'thump' issue.

At point 3, in the past I had put my head here just to avoid some of that noise but its really a bad solution.  So odd not having a wall behind your head.

Now some ideas to help the situation.  First off, I've been using earplugs and a white noise machine at night for years.  That does well for most sounds, just not 'thumps' which wake me up.  I don't have a headboard at all on my bed and thought maybe adding one (or trying to find a soundproof headboard) might reduce the 'thump' sounds.  I have talked to management and they have agreed to let me install some 'hush bumps' on the neighbor's sliding closet door before they move in.  (https://www.amazon.com/HushBumps-Ultra-Quiet-Bumpers-Contains-Cabinet/dp/B072F7NG2N) I've messed with these in the past and they seem to help slightly.  So my goal is to not get woken up essentially.  Would be nice if I could find a pair of earplugs or something that would protect against the thumps, but I dont think they exist.  I use these now which I've been using for years: (https://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight-Honeywell-Visibility-Disposable/dp/B0007XJOLG)

So any ideas in other bed positioning or anything else to help me out with sleeping better?

OTHER NOTES

At point [ccolor=red]4[/color] on my floorplan is where I have another issue.  I have my computer setup in the space where that table is on the image next to the window by the kitchen.  At point 4 on the other side of my wall is a neighbor's sliding window.  For years I've been startled by that window closing with a loud 'thump' while I am at my computer.  I thought maybe of installing one of those 'hush bumps' inside of the track of the window as well.  Of course, I will try to talk to the new neighbors and ask if they will close the window and their closet doors with less force but I've learned you can't count on that.  Maybe I could hang something on the wall there to lessen that noise?

At point 5 I've had issues with cabinets closing from a different neighbor's kitchen right on the other side of that wall.  I tend to avoid this area. 

Believe it or not, I've been here 13 years now.  Only recently did I realize how many issues I've had with this place.  I know it depends on the person, but I'm definitely sensitive to these sound issues, whereas another person not be bothered.  Anyone else may have moved already but I had chose not to.  As I said earlier, I am much more open to moving now but my lease isn't up till November so I'm trying to make the best of things for now.

So, any advice on helping me sleep better or to reduce the window closing issue I have near my computer?

Thanks!!  :smile:
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Definitely an interesting idea, do you know if the shared wall is a double frame construction or single frame?

your idea has merit, I would be concerned about flanking noise to bed 1 but from what I see if the door in the kitchen is closed you would experience a good value of reduction from the kitchen area.

Feel free to give me a call direct to discuss this project in greater detail.

Randy S.
760-752-3030
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Hi,

I own a single-storey semi-detached ground floor unit/townhouse built upon a concrete slab.

My neighbour's impact noise frequently travels through the shared wall, so i'm subjected to lots of thuds, bumps, knocks, taps (the majority of this noise is sourced from neighbour's kitchen cupboards and bench-tops which are directly attached to the shared wall)

Rather than completely renovating my own kitchen/bedroom which would require stripping away lots of built in cabinets/sink/internal wall etc. I thought it might be more economical to just accept that neighbour noise will enter my unit, but maybe I could isolate the majority of that noise in my own kitchen so I can still enjoy my living room area relatively noise free.

Here is a copy of my floor plan, the shared wall is on the left hand side as my unit is basically a mirror image of my neighbours unit.

https://i.imgur.com/VA5MazB.png

I've drawn in red a basic idea for where i'd build this dividing wall (basically building all the way down to the sidewall, to completley isolate the shared wall)

Is this a reasonable solution? What special steps would I need to take when building a wall? Would digging out a deep groove into the floor. ceiling or sidewall before building the wall help to isolate noise from traveling to other rooms? Would I even need extra soundproofing material or would a standard wall be good enough?

I've also contemplated installing in some sort of thick temporary sound barriers or maybe a thick sound curtain, but I don't think these would ever be as good or as economical as an actual wall.

any help, suggestions or ideas would be much appreciated.

Thanks.










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Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Help soundproofing a metal utility door
« Last post by Randy S on April 10, 2019, 03:14:04 PM »
normally I simply use a roller latch system with no hole in the door.
if the room needs to be secured I opt for double door system with deadbolt on outer door.

other then that you can try foam or MLV to make a cover.

Randy S.
760-752-3030
7
Thanks again Randy, I will try to add the same material to the door that I did to the wall and see ... I hope the hinges can handle it, also what about the deadbolt ? I imagine this can be a problem, how do you deal with that ? Build a little cut out to access the deadbolt ? Or remove the deadbolt and fill in the bore and use a different system for locking ?
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Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Help soundproofing a metal utility door
« Last post by Randy S on April 09, 2019, 06:18:25 PM »
no matter which path you take, you will have to get the weight increased. 2 1/2" solid oak doors are around 175 lbs. and expensive and still might not be enough.
the first thing I would do is calculate my wall mass (lbs per sqft.) then see if it feasible to add the additional weight.
if you can, then add the weight to your existing door.
if not look into a second door with enough weight to exceed the wall weight.

Randy S.
 
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Thnks, I made a mistake by buying the metal doors, they are already hung, the good thing about the metal doors are they come with a well sealed jamb and threshold.

I have 2 options, which would you recommend:

1 - build up the metal door to match the wall with MLV and 2 sheets of 5/8 drywall with green glue ?

2 - replace the metal door with a solid wood door ? (If I can find one the exact size)

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Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Help soundproofing a metal utility door
« Last post by Randy S on April 09, 2019, 03:09:49 PM »
adding a second does make a huge improvement as well.

Randy S.
760-752-3030
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