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Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Help soundproofing a metal utility door
« Last post by Loud Music Maker on April 07, 2019, 02:05:48 PM »
Hi, I soundproofed a wall with rock wool, MLV, 2 sheets af 5/8 drywall with green glue between, roofing tape around the electrical boxes, sealed everywhere with acoustic sealant, it works pretty good but the metal utility door hung on one end of the wall is transmitting sound, the door is sealed very well it’s the actual metal part of the door that is the problem, I need to muffle the metal, I have a left over piece of MLV that would cover the door perfectly, I’m looking for advice how to attach the MLV to the door and any other tips.
Thanks,
Rob
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Soundproofing your Condo, Townhouse or Bed & Breakfast / Re: CEILING SOUNDPROOFING
« Last post by Rick on April 06, 2019, 11:14:05 PM »
Randy S wrote in http://supersoundproofing.com/forum/index.php/topic,4118.0.html
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Mud and tape on the perimeter just created a hard mount around the perimeter..drum head..lose in middle tight around perimeter.

I'm not convinced of that. The ceiling is not a hard mount, it's now floating on the RC channel. The tape on the wall is like anything else attached to the wall.

Tape is flexible, that's why seams/angles are tapped. Fill angles/seams with mud and and it cracks very quickly (because of movement).

You might be right but I'm skeptical taping the ceiling after proper installation (with aprox 1/4" gap on the perimeter with acoustic non-harding calk) will increase sound transmission.  I'll be caulking the perimeter after the first layer of 5/8" rock and caulk again after the 2nd layer.

I'm OK with doing no tape on my ground level if that results in an audible improvement.
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Soundproofing between floor in existing construction to reduce impact (footstep) noise is the most common soundproofing request.

You need to decouple the floor. That is done with RC channel. But you can't just add RC channel to an exiting ceiling or you end up with the triple leaf effect - which can magnify the sound. In http://supersoundproofing.com/forum/index.php/topic,4317.0.html I post my recommendation. I'm waiting to hear from Randy S to see if that's a (pun intended) sound approach.
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Soundproofing your Condo, Townhouse or Bed & Breakfast / Re: CEILING SOUNDPROOFING
« Last post by Rick on April 06, 2019, 09:22:14 PM »
@duleaux wrote
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1.  Fill the cavities between the existing ceiling rafters by blowing cellulose insulation above the existing drywall ceiling
2.  Apply isolation clips (Whisper, isoTRAX, etc.) to the existing drywall ceiling (please read on, I realize this is considered bad practice)
3.  Apply hat channel to the isolation clips

As a general rule, hat channels are significantly inferior to resilient channels since they are not free to move and achieve dissipation of the sound energy

From http://www.woodworks.org/wp-content/uploads/Acoustics_Solutions_Paper.pdf

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I realize that affixing isolation clips to an existing drywall ceiling is considered bad practice because it can create a mass-air-mass resonance chamber between the two layers of drywall that actually can worsen the noise.  However, in step 4, I would sandwich a 1" layer of rock wool (or fiberglass) bats between the two layers of drywall to fill the void and absorb the sound waves traveling between the existing ceiling and new layer of drywall.

What you are describing is called the triple leaf effect (TLE). I've been told by an acoustic engineer a much better way to mitigate or even defeat the TLE is to bore holes in drywall. I'm waiting to get his recommendation on a schedule (size of holes and spacing)

@Randy S I'd be interested in your opinion on the bore-hole solution and recommended schedule.

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So my question is how are you supposed to finish the ceiling drywall edge?  If you leave a small gap of 1/8th or something which you then fill with acoustical caulk you would still have a funny looking ceiling edge.

@randy S wrote
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The key to this is to make sure you are only using factory edge of the drywall and exact shim sizes.
once the caulking is installed use a caulking corner tool to finish while wet.
coat with a primer and paint, it actually looks good when done right.

Why not tape after caulking? The thin layer of drywall mud + tape + finish drywall mud won't make more of a hard surface than paint. You'll end up with a far better looking angle. That's how I've been finishing angles since 1978 (when we didn't have good acoustic calk). It's possible my approach compromised STC, but I haven't seen any evidence to suggest that.

Even using factory edge/butt against the perimeter, you never get a uniform gap. Construction is never square, the only question is how out of square is it.

The approach I'm taking is two layers of 5/8" rock with green glue between layers.

The ceiling I have planned has a bed room wall covering the ceiling joist. In the bed room and on the other side of the wall the RC channel would need to be cantilevered almost 16" (5" is the max cantilever).  I think I can solve that problem with the AERO-SUPPORT (AS-1) clip http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/as1.htm
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Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Magnetic seal question
« Last post by SteveH on April 04, 2019, 09:49:32 PM »
Thanks, that's a good point.  I can screw in the metal frame but have to rely on adhesive if I use a magnet on the wall.
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Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Re: Magnetic seal question
« Last post by Randy S on April 04, 2019, 06:34:59 PM »
That should work, the only problem I see is the adhesive not sticking to drywall or wood very well.

Randy S.

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Soundproofing Windows and Doors / Magnetic seal question
« Last post by SteveH on April 04, 2019, 05:46:00 PM »
Hi, I posted this on another forum page and am reposting here in case I put it in the wrong place.  I have learned a lot from this forum and really appreciate everyone's knowledge.  I am convinced that a magnetic interior storm window is the right choice for me.  The only question I have is whether a magnet-to-steel seal is better than a magnet-to-magnet seal.  I know the Magnaseal uses a magnet-steel seal, but I saw another product that uses a magnet-magnet seal.  And I have read that magnet-magnet connections are generally stronger than magnet-steel connections given the same magnet.  So is there a functional or performance reason to go with a magnet-steel seal rather than a magnet-magnet seal?  Thanks!
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Pacific Standard Time  8:00 am to 5:00 pm


Randy S.
760-752-3030
888-942-7723
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Alright Randy, I appreciate that.  What is your time zone, and what are the best times to reach you? 
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kk0710
Helping people solve these problems successfully is not at all a waste of time and it could save you from making expensive mistakes.

I look forward to speaking with you.

Randy S.
760-752-3030
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