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Author Topic: Door insulation  (Read 11833 times)

parallux

  • Guest
Re: Door insulation
« Reply #15 on: October 16, 2013, 02:01:18 AM »

One option that may be simpler (although you appear to be well on your way with the current approach) is adding a door insulation curtain, that can be rolled down at some times, and rolled up at others, when you want to allow natural air flow in the house. There are a number on the market with STC around 30. As the STC increases, they become more unwieldy to retract up and down. This one is reasonably priced (http://residential-acoustics.com/product/acoustidoor/), much better than the door seals available through SoundProofCow, etc.

jhbrandt

  • Guest
Re: Door insulation
« Reply #16 on: October 16, 2013, 05:49:03 AM »

Parallux,

Sorry, the Acousti-Door is similar to MLV or factory Vinyl clear curtains. It blocks direct upper voice range frequencies only. It has no seal and as it is hung, I challenge anyone selling this crap that THIS application will obtain any sort of STC higher than about 12 - 15 dB.. and ONLY at / around 2- 4 kHz. This is not a matter of MY OPINION. This is scientific, proven, documented FACT. - see my publications page, The CNRC, and other validated testing information.

If you want to try using MLV for YOUR windows or doors, all you need to do is put some grommets in the MLV and string it up. IT WILL BLOCK SOME SOUND. It it up to you if it will meet your requirements. Check out Supersoundproofing.org They sell it for a pretty good price...

If you are serious about SEALS. You need to look up Zero International or Pemko

The OP is trying to install a door for his MUSIC room. Music requires isolation down to 20 Hz... STC only details response from 125 Hz thru 4 kHz. One size does not fit all.

Cheers,
John

Randy S

  • Senior Soundproofing Technical Specialist
  • Global Moderator
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  • Posts: 819
    • Super Soundproofing Co
Re: Door insulation
« Reply #17 on: October 16, 2013, 04:08:33 PM »

+1 John

I find it amazing when people try to peddle their wares yet have little understanding of what is required to achieve adequate noise reductions.
I don't care who sells what, if you don't have mass and air tight seals you aren't soundproofing.
 
Randy Sieg

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goblinsly

  • Guest
Re: Door insulation
« Reply #18 on: November 27, 2013, 01:09:37 PM »

Thank you for all the replies,

I am very close to the end of this project. Here is a picture from today.



The only thing that remains now is to put another door on the side you are looking at. I can't decide how to make the door though. I do know that it will be made from 1 sheet of MDF but whether it should be normal door, sliding door, door made from 2 or 3 pieces .... As you can see on the picture i built the light switches into the wall soo that there could be a sliding door. But there is a problem with poor seals regarding the sliding doors. Normal doors are cheap to build and offer good insulation but it would kind of be bad opening and closing 2 doors every single time .. i wanted to have those second doors as a backup ( thats why originaly i thought of sliding doors that would be next to the fridge .. ). An easy an cheap option would be to make door with 2 wings, 1 on the left, 1 on the right. And then i would make some kind of leve on the top to hold the door close together ( and make the door overlap in the middle ). Soo what do you think about this last idea ? Keep in mind that i want to do it all by myself soo no buying of expensive sliding door mechanisms. This last idea involves only 4 cheap hinges, as for seals, i already have tons of them at home. 2 sheets of MDF are cheap also. I am trying to insulate human voice, meaning talking/jelling.